blowit

Shortening the skirt is a no no. That will decrease piston life dramatically. Yes you can open up the piston windows but too much and they will break. Power boost is around 1HP and not recommended for dune or trail applications. Brandon

You need to do a search for adjusting the clutch arm push rod and mic spec for the plates. I am just N O T one to throw parts at something unless it needs them. Unless the frictions are completely smooth, there is enough meat to grab and at least test ride. You can have all the lever free play in the world but if that clutch pushrod is out of adj too far, the lever on the top case will bottom out on the top of the case (very obvious by looking at it) and will not allow the clutch to engage. Please search this site, grab a manual, or open the digital above and adjust it. This find would seriously take of 5min for an experienced builder too so it might save you some head ache to get some fresh eyes on it. Brandon

No, that just does not happen. From the sounds of your issues, you have a pilot jet plugged. You may also check the carb slide sync to make sure both start coming up at the same time. If the bike just will not start without choke and you have checked all the simple stuff, take the carbs down and check the """pilot"""" jets. Not to be confused with main jets. Brandon

NOPE! You should get some kind of action out of it If there is ANY fiber at all on the friction plates. Did you look at the pressure plate like I mentioned? It only works one way but will install 6 different ways. It MUST go over the inner hub spines or it will not put pressure on the plates. I have also had bikes that did not have enough plates in the stack and that will cause this too. Do like I say and test for plate tension or pressure. NO pressure, you go no where. Brandon

Carb slide are directional but can be installed backwards. Cutaway on the bottom of them must be towards the air filter. Brandon

Do you have the slides in the correct way?? Brandon

Large thrust washer behind the inner hub will cause some problems too if it is missing. Brandon

You asked before and I indicated a clutch issue. I still think you have one. If you can FEEL it go into gear, it is probably in gear. Do me this one, see if you can get any size of feeler gauge between any of your clutch plates. If you can move those plates at all with the clutch lever out, you have a problem. Do you have freeplay at the lever? They would always drag enough to grab a gear though. If you are firm that your clutch is fine, all you have to do is remove the clutch assy and turn the trans by hand while shifting it to ensure you have all 6 gears. In all my days building banshees, I have NEVER seen a broke off shift fork. They are short and stout. I really doubt you have a trans problem, you have an assy problem. Brandon

+4mm stroker long rod crank, 795 pistons, modded head for the stroke, a smile. stroker porting is recommended but engine will run without, just not very good. Brandon

Once the nut is loose, the slotted bolt will unscrew. You may have to apply some nuts to that as it might have some thread locker on it. Once that is off, the shift fork shaft will become self explanatory. If the nut is loose, give er hell and it will come out. Super simple. Brandon

Installed pressure plate wrong. Remove and rotate until it falls over the splines of the inner hub. This is my guess for now. Assy error. Brandon

I have no idea what you are referring to but if you park any banshee on an incline in gear, it will slowly move. The ENTIRE engine is turning over. You do not have near the power stroke that you do on a thumper nor the rotating friction so compression slowly sneaks by the rings and it turns over. Just pull your spark plugs and try it.... If you run your comp up to about 250psi, that should slow it down a bit. If your motor is weak, this condition will be amplified. Might wanna look at that top end. As far as creeping forward, if it does this when running, you have a toasted clutch basket, inner drive hub, or mis adjusted clutch. Plate warp is very rare on these. Brandon

No, you cannot repair the crank without special tooling and knowledge. Proper phasing and runout must be held. Twins and up are for experienced machinists and crank builders. Yes, strokers are worth the extra money. I think over 50% of banshees are at least running a 4mm crank by now. You will have to mod the cylinders and head for any stroker. Stock will be cheapest. Brandon

I doubt you will get them to mess with your ports unless they know porting. Most machine shop guys will make a hole and maybe chamfer the ports but that is it. Make DAMN sure your ports are all chamfered where they converge with the bore or you will hang a ring and kill your engine. As far as DYI clean up porting, buy some various grits of flapper wheels or any type of rotary sanding tools and work out those gouges. Probably start with 40-60 grit for that one. Yes, buy the pistons and have the bores matched. The other way is a GOOD way to get yourself in trouble. Seen it toooo many times. Brandon

You will not find another brand in the size you need because Wiseco was the only company to offer a LR piston, at least to my knowledge. So do I get some sort of plaque or something for winning the guessing game????? :biggrin: Um, I am not sure about the rest of your ports but it sure looks like the exhaust could use some flow help. Might not be a bad idea to clean them up a bit. Brandon

I don't care if you use a stick to measure as long as you do it accurately. Without confirmation at this point, I am thinking you may have a stock stroke long rod crank. NO, just because your piston is way high does not mean it is stroked. As I mentioned, you can get all your data with the cylinders on. You now need to put one cylinder back on and see where the floor of the transfer ports are relative to the timing edge of the pistons. Brandon

If you want, you can give me a call in the shop tomorrow and I can go over what you have. Brandon Mull Engineering 316-992-6984

Well I would want to know where this scratch came from... Are those rings still floating in the pistons or welded in?? I think I might look closer as the pistons. If you lose a ring, you will not like your self in the morning. Brandon

First thing to do is get the head off and measure the stroke by measuring the difference from the positive travel of the piston above the cylinder deck and how low it goes. This will tell you "stroke". Then measure the difference of the outer top edge of the piston to the top deck of the cylinder at TDC. This will help me determine what crank you have. Very possible we can get it going with some different pistons. You do NOT need to tear the engine down just to determine what crank you have... Brandon

A broken chain can indeed be VERY bad news. You need to remove the clutch cover and removed the clutch assy entirely to test both the trans and inspect the clutch for breakage. I have seen everything from a shattered clutch basket to broke off trans shafts and broken gears. Hopefully you do not have to pull the engine. If there is something wrong with the clutch, it should be pretty obvious. ONce you have the clutch off, you will want to spin the drive and drive shafts of the trans in each gear carefully to detect any lumpy spots in rotation. I caught one a few months ago that was not in for trans work but I knew it needed open heart exploratory surgery. I found two gears from a previous lock up that were cracked and minutes away from total destruction. Chain locks are NOT good.... Brandon

Oil leak, Oil seep is likely from the exhaust and should be resealed with new orings at the cylinder. If the base gaskets were leaking, you would have other running problems besides oil leakage. Vent tube, That hose is a trans vent and should be routed as vertical as possible and should connect to another longer tube in the chassis. Otherwise is is very possible to see trans oil leak from that tube but should not run out or anywhere close to that. Brandon

I only wish I would have paid more attention in Chem engineering classes but here is our research and understanding on the subject. By combining two or more fuels together, you are in effect "diluting" the lower octane fuel. You are not molecularly modifying the fuel. This simply means you will suppress auto-ignition tendencies but it will still occur regardless. This means a potential for erratic burn rates and higher combustion temps than with a single higher grade fuel. This does not mean it does not work, just means that these tendencies must be taken into account. By mixing gasoline and alky, They do not blend in nature so a "surfactant" must be added to allow blending of the two fuels. It is my understanding that the surfactant will NOT change the properties of either fuel but will give each a molecule it can bond ( hand holding) to to create a homogeneous solution. In actual raw fuel creation, fuel is "cracked" with a specialized process to break the carbon chains into the proper order to create gasoline. Unless this process is carried out in a fuel, the fuel molecules are only holding hands with one basic simply bond that is easily broken. In short, a blended 100 octane fuel may be able to suppress auto-ignition at the same levels as an engineered 100 octane fuel, but may not make as much power and run hotter due to the "blend" of fuels burning at different rates with different properties. Brandon

E85 octane will vary depending on blend ratios. Because alky is not a cold weather performer, E85 is generally tuned back by manufacturers to around 70% C2H5OH and 30% 86 octane gasoline so the fuel will light better in cold weather. At the 85/15 ratio, octane is around 105 but will reduce to around 100 in the colder months. Brandon

Compression..... You don't have a party without compression and is just OH toooo common on two strokes. Brandon

Sounds like you either got the motor hot and seized a ring into a piston or you clogged a jet in a carb. At least that is what is sounds like from here. Does not sound electrical. Comp test is if you have a tester. That should give you some direction. Brandon