FireHead

We've all done this here to some extent, providing you've been on here long enough. I have done the same thing.............maybe be even to TurboBanshee :biggrin:

I think I can see your point here: If you are buying a welder to fix the muddy ATV frame that you broke in half, then a MIG might make more sense. It would also make more sense if you are building boat trailers or have a dream of opening a muffler shop. :biggrin: If you actually want to make an ATV frame from scratch........or anything from scratch for that matter, than a TIG is a better way to go.

I think a hand lathe is what you use to make skin flutes. :ermm:

The eye patch and peg leg seem to prevent her from getting on here much. :biggrin:

That sounds about right. Actually, Ithinmk the thing with Turbo is, that he has seen / read about alot of stuff, but not actually done it himself and seems easily excited when you start to get out on the fringe of his understanding on a subject......................., but what do I know, I'm just a silly asshole. :biggrin:

Dave, where do you dig up these guys you get in technical discussions with? This entire thread seems to be very similair to the classic OJ Cool threads. :biggrin:

Ditto on going TIG. Unless you have a bunch of bug, thick stuff to weld, a TIG is more suited to this hobby of ours........ :geek:

I think what alot of the drag guys have found is ithat past a certain point, you are not going to get much more out of a reed cage design, but the reeds themselves make a big difference. However, there is a consensus on which reed is best, I know guys using anything from FMF reeds all the way to the other end of the spectrum where guys are having their own two-off custom reeds sets made. :geek:

Come on..................Have you actually seen a RAD Valve for a Banshee? They're not the same thing as what you are talking about. :thumbsup:

Dental picks work great.

www.grainger.com www.mcmastercarr.com www.mscindustrialsupply.com :geek:

Boyesen has a RAD Valve that will work up to 38mm carb I think............. Which is beside the point, that I have had the Boyesen RAD Valves and VF3's on an engine dyno and flow bench. They are pretty much the same performance-wise. There are some petal frequency reponse differences that I thought would be significant in relation to performance, but it doesn't seem to matter........... :geek:

Word. :thumbsup:

If I had ths inside of my cases powder coated, then it wouldn't matter................... :biggrin:

How much longer do you figure you are going to have that thing? :biggrin:

VF3 or a Boyesen RAD valve in this application would probably be about the same........... :geek:

You get an applause from me.

I here that's what happens when you masturbate too much....... :biggrin:

I hear www.cosmicquads.com does a good job, but I have never used them. :thumbsup:

That's funny............I think Bansh-eman was getting the same thing, but he was having them put on him. :ermm:

That is correct. If I we're to rate the joints in order of sound design per this application; 1.)Pressed in ball joints. 2.)Heim Joints 3.)Poor quality heim joints. 4.) Automotive tie rod ends.

I thought that is what I was doing..........assuming that the game is powder coating.

I guess I didn't powder coat the inside of my cases. That must be my problem.

They are made by TRW and Federal Mogul. I think the specific application is for some type of Volkswagon steering tie rod. If you don't believe me, loof up the part number yourself. Either your fooling yourself or someone is lying to you if you think these parts are not what is sold at Auto Zone. There are a few Laeger arms designs out there that use a press-style joints though............

Really........come on. Automotive style ball joints put in bending in an ATV a-arm application is terrible........a heim joint isn't perfect, but it's better than that. What you really want is a press in ball joint like in OEM applications or some of the high-end a-arms.