FireHead

I may have had a brain fart about that degassing line...........I'll have to see where I ran it on my red bike. I am trying to run as few lines as possible, but for the carbs, I will definitely be running their vents out the back due to the methanol issue you mentioned.

Word. :thumbsup:

They're not cheap............

I think he meant he was going to be the R&D facility........ :biggrin:

Are you getting a small or big block? Straight from Louie? :thumbsup:

This is a common problem with alot of a-arm manufacturers who use automotive style ball joints. My Metal Tech arms on my blue bike are like that............I will be screwing with switching to a heim setup this weekend. :geek:

A full set of Hardkor hubs for my red bike, some truck stereo stuff, and front tires, rear wheels and tires, a paint job, etc. for my blue bike. :thumbsup:

Where are you guys with drag or hill bikes running the radiator overflow line (from the neck of the radiator) and the coolant degassing line (from the top of the head) to? I need some ideas and pictures are always appreciated. :thumbsup:

Dave is in the loop on this............he does all kinds of weird stuff to cats as a hobby. :ermm:

That's awesome! The article covers most of the info that I would have put together to give to you guys if had the time.......... As a small caveat, polyester or vinyl ester resin can be used with CF, but the CF needs to be sized (technical term meaning: glass coated) for it. That type of CF is more expensive and less than readily available. :geek:

I agree with Dave on this one....... If you have a 10mil and think that you can maintain the same maintenance intervals as an OEM engine, you are in for an unpleasant surprize. :biggrin:

If you take it to a radiator shop, they will put it in their caustic bath which will remove everything for like $5. :thumbsup:

It can break for four reasons: 1.) Keyway in flywheel is messed up. 2.) Keyway in crankshaft is messed up. 3.) Key is messed up from prior improper installation. 4.) The flywheel was assmble at an improper torque (most of the time too low). :geek:

One of you two weirdos need to get that clutch in their bike and run it! I am interested to hear what normal people think of it. I'll take Kevin's word for the fact that the assembly works well............, but I would like to see some more real world results (i.e. Dave lost a testicle trying to install it, or whatever). :biggrin:

I don't think they have pirates in Detroit. I am pretty sure they only have plain hookers........... :biggrin:

At that point, I don't think it matters what your clutch is doing...........

What's a moder and where can I get one? :ermm:

Does absorbant = breather cloth? The elacticity of any composite is a property of the matrix and not the fiber. If you want to be light and flexible a fine layer of 'glass with a vinylester resin, and a top sheet graphic is probably the best way to go. As always the VARTM process is probably the best process to use, but a simple vacuum bag setup will probably do the trick too if you are on a budget. :geek:

Word. Also, take you fuel tank off, remove spark plugs, and I always go out the left side of the frame........so, then you also need to pull that foot peg. :thumbsup:

I don't see anything stopping you from throwing a set of ice tires on that thing........... :biggrin:

I am pretty sure we still won't agree on the dyno thing, but Kevin is a good guy and he certainly knows what he's doing. With regard to the GP clutch setup, form what I have read, there is about a 50/50 split in the industry with people using the clutches with success and others that won't touch the product or have had bad luck with it. I think that is just where you get to with a high end product like that in a recreational based industry. I still don't get along with Nate.................., which has nothing to do with his work or business. :ermm:

I have a cuple different things I have done, but for an OEM frame, bending a piece of stainless steel sheet is the way to go. :geek:

I have made a coiuple sets...............it's a waste of material in cost vs. benefit department. You are better off with a fiber class with a screen printed cotton graphic layer on top......................Pretty much the only reason anyone would do carbon fenders is for looks.

Sounds like a retard to me......