FireHead

If you try to match the fabric color to the paint color, you will never get it right. The only way to do something like that is to get one of those seat covers that have the painted layer under the cover.

Works guesses (don't let the coputerized ball valve design advertising fool you). TCS guesses, but they have always guesssed correctly as far as the stuff that I have purchased from them goes. If you by Ohlins products that were assembled in the USA, then they guess at what you need and so does Fox. Don't get me wrong, all the guessing is semi-educated, but it's hust not the same thing as what Elka or Axis (Penske) do. :geek:

Do they have a good selection of drag racing oriented stuff? :geek:

Give Jeff at JJ&A a call. He would be my choice for such things. He'll probably charge you a bit more for the custom stuff, but atleast it will work when you get them. :geek:

Get ahold of dajogejr on here. He lives in Michigan and knows most folks worth knowing there............. :thumbsup:

Word. Duneables are very reliable as long as they are put together by some of the leading names in the industry. If they are made by some weirdo with a wood lathe and stick welder, they probably aren't going to last long. Additionally, they are not that easy of thing to make and have function well. There is a big differnce between a setup that is well built and one that is not. It took me a very long time to figure out how to make one that did not blow up in one way or another, granted I was starting from scratch and picture I found on the internet. :geek:

I just went with black................It goes with everything. I would also like to point out that I am the least artistic person out of all y'all. :thumbsup:

I needed to go out to Cascade this weekend, may I will try that place instead. :cool:

You know you were looking at buying that............. :biggrin:

On some a-arms that use autpmotvie tie rod ends, you have to ream (kind of like a drill) your spindles to make them fit. The reaming is done to change the taper in the spindle attachement points. :geek:

They actually have CAD parametized designed parts. When you call and order a shock from them, if it is outside of a general known application, they build the shock in a simulation model instead of just guess at a list of parts........... :geek:

I hadn't heard of that place before...........I think I was missing out. :biggrin:

Word. :thumbsup:

I have heard that about you. :biggrin:

Yeah, Bike Bandit get a chunck of money from me every month....... :biggrin:

Elka has the most engineering oriented shock out of any of the mid-priced shock folks out there. :geek:

I have a set of Metal Tech Arms on the front of my blue bike. :thumbsup:

Elka would be my frist choice, thne TCS, then Works...........

www.bikebandit.com :thumbsup:

This is true. A helical gear is better design for the application, but once you triple the torque outsput of the engine, even aftermarket, high load bearing don't last as they should. If you made a set of cases to use a bigger bearing as some of have done, then you can go back to stock'ish gears (I say 'ish as the last big bearing engine I did required a different gear ratio on the primary, so I had to make a set of gears anyway. Of course, then I moved the location that I was taking the power off of the crankshaft entirely (center). :shoothead: :geek: )

BigRed350X had that as an avatar for awhile on here. :biggrin:

Word. You beat me to it. :geek:

I know a couple guys in Wyoming that could set you up with a sweet self-defense lawnmower. :cool: ....................besides Jared woul;dn't have to build you a bike if he just bought one of mine for you.

Loco............you're killing me here. I am guessing you recognize the bike in the background of that picture............. :geek:

I will make you a hell of a deal on a free spell check program........................ :biggrin: In all fairness, one small mis-spelling............you've gotten alot better. :thumbsup: