FireHead

I am interested in #1 and #3. How about you get on the making the how to guides. :yelrotflmao:

The pipes are made of mild steel. Since it's not structural you can TIG weld ovver the stop of the chrome. That shouls take care of the leak. The problem with doing that is you will wind up with a blued spot on top of the pipe and it will certainly rust where the filler rod is. You may be better off brazing the hole shut. I never had good luck with TIG welding used pipes as the exhaust residue on the inside of the pipe tends to get into the weld and turn it to shit pretty easily. What I would actually do is call CPI and see how they can help you. They are a pretty good company and they might be able to help. :thumbsup:

If you click on the link it says the video is no longer available. Congratulations on finally got your bike going! :thumbsup:

Yellow with a red stripe is the power wire. Black should be the ground. I think the wire color to the lights may have changed a couple times through the years. You should get a Clymer manual to be sure. Otherwise get a DVOM and check wich wire go there in Ohm/alarm mode. :thumbsup:

Oooops, I was assuming we were talking about a RAD Valave setup. If we were just talking about replacement reeds for $75, then that's not such a great deal. :thumbsup:

I wasn't offended.................I just thought it was a bit strange, that's all. No hard feelings on my part. :thumbsup:

Listen to this man. He speaks the truth. :thumbsup:

You could do that. It would be a bit of work. The geometry you are given by Yamaha with the swingarm pivot point, is a bit limiting. You would be better off designing a new linkage, which could be tricky. I haven't done one for a Banshee, but from experience on other projects, you need to have some suspension design experience to avoid alot of frustration and several iterations. I suppose what I am trying to say nicely is that if you haven't done it before, it's not easy and you can wind up spending alot of time making turds. On the other hand, doing it is the best way to learn. I just want to lend what I can from experience. It could definitely be a cool project, but if you converted hours spent to dollars, it would be cheaper to buy Elka's setup. I am pretty sure a couple folks on here bought the Elka setup. I still haven't seen pictures and would certainly like to. I will probably end up with it one of these days on my red bike once I get through a few other projects. :thumbsup:

There is some value to be found in some of Jet's products. The air driven hand tools can can be ok. I have had bad experiences with two of their band saws however. The first was a smaller horizontal saw that could barely drive the blade without slipping. The other was a much larger horizontal caw that worked ok for about a month before it started braking all kinds of things. The shitter is that they don't make alot of their product, they just put their name on it. So, if you need parts, they quite often don't have a clue what the part is orhow to get it. In this particular case they didn't even have a manual for the saw or know how to get ahold of the Chinese (I'm guessing) company who made it. I wound up having to put together a coolant system out myself using part from McMaster and MSC. This was a $15k saw and you would think they would support some of their more expensive equipment better. Of course a comparable saw made by Marvel would be around $40k, so it all comes down to getting what tou paid for. Both saws I bought new, directly from Jet. I even knew a couple guys that work there in WA, and I still couldn't get much accomplished with them. ::

I'd give them a call. They are usually pretty quick about getting through repairs. It is their production of certain sizes and configurations or tires that can be a bit slow sometimes. :thumbsup:

Get them straight from the people who make them. Yarnell Industries is the name of the place. They are in Arizona and are awesome people to deal with. :thumbsup:

Like Jared said, no filler, make sure you true it first. It's easy to do. You don't need a trueing stand, you can use a lathe to accomplish the same thing. You need to chuck it between centers and run a dial indicator on the main bearing races. This gets you the same thing as setting the crank on those areas with a trueing stand. I figures I'd toss that out there since it seems that alot of people don't have trueing stands anymore. :thumbsup:

I would disagree a bit about the horsepower range you stated, but other than that you are spot on. I think it has alot to do with how you ride and where you ride. If you are drag racing or in the sand, I think the horsepower range you would from which you would benefit from one is much lower. To answer the original question, yes, they work great with a stock tranny. :thumbsup:

They're a great reed system if you are using relatively stock size carbs. I would venture to say that they may be the best reed system for a stock style application. I am sure folks will disagree with me on this, as it seems they always do.

Apparently you are to a fan of the quality of comedy that I am capable of when I am stuck in an airport late at night. That certainly was alot to read, I am really not sure that I warrant that much effort on your part. Have you considered counseling or possibly cutting back on your drug intake? Either way, you seem to be dealing with some sexual insecurity, so I will leave you to deal with that. On the topic of the crankshaft at hand, my simple point is that all of my crankshafts are welded and I certainly beleive in the practice. I just don't feel it's something to go tearing a motor apart for unless you're making alot of power. I would have it done when you are in your motor doing something else. :thumbsup:

Word. :thumbsup:

Did you offer to lend the guy a hand on the weekend in exchange for free chrome work and learning how to do it hands-oon style.............?

Dammit..........I think I am going to have to try and start using WD40. You SOB's learned me sumthun. :thumbsup:

People from Kansas making fun of people from Wyoming, for being in to farm animals.............................. I am pretty sure Kansas is just as bad or worse, as far as the farm animal screwing reputation goes. :yucky:

Ahh get it welded if you want to. I was on the fence before, but you probably have enough done to warrant it. It's really just a matter of when you want to do it. I am not into sharing Brian. I am not sure who Brian is, but I am pretty sure that at no point, ever, in the universe, does a hot girl ever come equipped with the name Brian. :thumbsup:

I may have misplaced my brain............can I borrow yours? :shoothead: :biggrin:

Getting anything is great if you bever had them in the first place. :shoothead:

I don't know much about Blasters, but you can try what I did when I kept losing the nut off of one of my bike clutch adjuster down in the side cover. Cut part of a cheapo refridgerator magnet to suit the siz hole you have access to, then epoxy or hot glue that to a coat hanger or a semi-rigid piece of wire that you can customize, after that you should be ready to go "case fishing." If that doesn't do it, then try jiggling the bike around before you take the motor out of the frame to shake it. A blaster can't be that heavy. :thumbsup:

A quick tip to make sure you aren't that far our of alignment when you tighten everything back up is to count the threads that are exposed on the adjuster bolts. You may want to check and make sure your sprockets aren't completely worn down and that your axle and coutershaft bearing are all ok. Both of those things can cause you to pitch your chain. If you haven't bought a case saver yet, I would definitely buy one before you wind up with part of your case missing. :thumbsup:

If you are makinmg much more than 50 hp as a guess I would have it welded. I would wait until you have problem that causes you to atleast pull the top end off though. Splitting the cases just to do that wouldn't be something that I would do. Who is Mr. Crankshaft?