FireHead

I think you have to clip some wires to disable a parking brake switch and possibly something else for the TORS system. Hopefully one of the other guys on here can shed some light on what you actually need to do, as I haven't ever done this. I do recall that if you didn't clip the wires, you get basically the same symptoms you describe. If you search the forum you may find a thread that talks about what to do as well. :thumbsup:

Did you check the inductive pick up on the timing plate? It needs to be gapped properly. Did you remove the TORS setup correctly?

I bought a Motion Pro screw kit today after having put this project on the back burner for a bit. I still wonder what people are doing by installing the TORS eliminator tops, but not the idle screws. It seems to be that you would wind up with an inaccurate and erratic idle. :shoothead:

Good information there. 100% accurate IMO. We need more posts like this around here. :thumbsup:

I hope you filled the squirrel full of cocaine first. I heard that helps.......................... :shrug:

www.bikebandit.com I am not sure how much they are there. You could always make one, you just need to go to an automitve electronics store to get the connectors. That's what I do with all of mine. I have had too manyu problems with used harnesses. ::

I am also interested in the features and benefits of these items. Hopefully someone will give us some feedback.

If it's the stock carbs then the little detent thing on the the choke shaft might be worn out. The sure is to order a new choke assembly from Yamaha. I have had to do this on couple of Banshee's that I have owned. :thumbsup:

I can ususally just pull the choke on one of the carbs and she will fire right up. If it's that big of problem for you then maybe you can find a remote location choke kit for your carbs. I think Mikuni makes them atleast. :thumbsup:

I'm down to go to the San Diego show. I might have gotten to go for free any way, as one of the operators at my work that i am friends with has a brother who is in System of a Down. :thumbsup:

Too bad for me that Californians are afraid of bows and arrows as well. :verymad:

Check the gap between the flywheel and ignition pick up. :thumbsup:

I was there the in the first post of eveyone that was there, bot not in the second................What the hell?

$30k for Catia probably only gets you a very basic design package. Go to www.dassaultsystems.com , and you can build your own package and see what it costs. The complete seats of UG and Catia that were bought where I work and have worked were about $200k a piece and that was with a discount for buying multiple seats at once. :thumbsup:

I have something similair to that list that I give to newly hired shop folks in their orientation packet if it looks like they might have a sense of humor, :biggrin:

Aftermarket CDI's are one of those items that usually have alot of spec'smanship involved when they are advertised. It sounds like this one just has a different timing curve in it compared to stock. The RPM increase doesn't reallt matter because it really controlled by the pipes and porting that you have. The hp increase you will see will really depend on how the timing curve interacts with the modifications that you have done to your motor. If you're bike is not heavily modified, an adjustable timing plate or offset flywheel key when used with your OEM CDI will probably yield the best results and be alot less expensive. :thumbsup:

We don't have a CMM machine large enough to do the entire frame at work, so a measuring strategy is something else that on my list of things that I need to conjur. I am thinking about making a grid on a piece of tile board and fixing the frame to it inorder to help measure and give some reference to some of the bends. ::

Are the GRR inframes any good? This could be the answer to my problem of needing a silencer with a USFS approved spark arrestor. :thumbsup:

Making a broad statement like "Toomey's are the best pipe" is pretty hard for me to swallow. It really depends on your application. If you were trail riding an FMF Gnarly might be better. If you are duning or dragging the CPI's, Shearer's, etc. might be better. I personally love the sound of Toomey's, but with what I do with my red bike, they can't compare to CPI's. Suggesting what you did to someone, might mislead them by not presenting the information in a way that allows others to learn and make their own decision. Of course that's just my own opinion and I will get off my soap box now. :thumbsup:

The old FMF HiRev's were like that. They are shaped like a drag pipe, but they had a much smaller cross section.

If you model a frame for me, I'll mail you a copy..........................?

A couple of the engine shop guys at work showed up today with some of these gloves (http://www.shockergloveco.com/). They're actually pretty nice. However, they may also be one of the funniest things I have seen in awhile. :yelrotflmao:

I sent him a message asking him if I could pay him several thousand dollars to fix up my bike like his. I think I may have also asked him to call me if he was interested in a job in the racing industry since we have a hard time finding people as talented as he is.

Do you have any pictures of that? It sounds interesting. :thumbsup:

Coos Bay, Windy Bay, and Florence are my favorites. Some people like Sand Lake, but I wasn't as abig of fan of that place as I was the other. :thumbsup: