FireHead

I was pulling for the Toyota guys to not blow engines, so that I might have a good day at work on Monday.

This is a good point. If you feel that your top end went south due to an air leak, then you need to do this. :thumbsup:

A rich pearl white would look great. I will try and dig up one of the Class 7 desert races from a few years ago that was done in that paint scheme. :thumbsup:

That's one sweet butt plug you have there.

I also love the 70's! :thumbsup:

I am apparetnly illiterate............... ::

There is really nothing more intelligent posted there, than there is posted above.

I have never used mine either and I also enjoy not having a broken case. I think all of the ones that I have purchased came from Cascade. :thumbsup:

A pancake bearing is an aftermarket assembly that replaces the adjuster in your clutch pressure plate. It is basically a flat, caged roller bearing. :thumbsup:

I tend to agree. Those swingarm extensions look pretty dubious to me. I have seen alot of guys running them, but only in the dunes. If nothing else, they look silly. :thumbsup:

There is a guy over at www.sandlakeduners.com that has a pretty nice all black bike as well. :thumbsup:

Oh come on, how many brown framed bikes have you seen? It would be unique. On aa slightly more constructive note, once upon a time I saw a powder coating color that was like silver vein except with red and black. I never actually saw it on a bike, just in a can. I have no idea if it would look good or not on a frame. They may have also had the same style in black and blue. I am really not artisticly inclined at all and tend to have trouble coming up with ideas for stuff like this. It is pretty hard to go wrong with a black frame though. :thumbsup: I am considering doing something along the lines of a Yamaha 50th Anniversary color scheme with my triple. I figure if I can let the moths out of my wallet for an HS Customs frame and bodywork package, that might look pretty hot. I am not a fan of the really dancy paint jobs and bright colors.

Are you talking about the cup that goes over the end of the swing arm tube that the swingarm bolt goes through? If that is what you are talking about I have never heard of that happening before and you must certainly have something wrong with your frame or your swingarm.

There are alot of folks around where I live that have never put 60 hours on their bike total. In answer to the original question, I personally replace the stock crankshaft when it's broken. Although for reasons that I won't get into, I used to break alot of crankshafts.

I suppose you could also be getting similair symptoms as to what you are getting if your clutch backet was very badly grooved, but I think you would've noticed that this far into the investigation. :thumbsup:

I think the rod maybe welded to either the ball or the actuation arm. The balls purpose is act as a bearing between the rotating pressure plate and the stationary clutch rod. It obviously has a major point load on it when the clutch is pulled in, and if a number of things go wrong it welds itself to the push rod and locks you clutch in one position or another. Once it has done this it can be ridiculously hard to get out without pulling your entire motor apart. :thumbsup:

Poop brown?....................I've got nothing. :thumbsup:

I still say that you might have something wrong in the pushrod area. Have you pulled everything off of the clutch coutershaft including the basket?

It's not very hard to make 90hp with a 10mm stroked cub. :thumbsup:

That is what I did with mine. I believe that a company named Plews tends to make alot of high quality greas gun type equipment. :thumbsup:

Ditto :thumbsup:

A casesaver on a Banshee bolts to the shift drum cover and goes around the sprocket so that if you break a chain, it won't bunch or whip up and break your cases. It's a very common thing to happen on Banshees. To make up a number, I would say that 75% of the cases for sale on eBay are broken around the chain area. Sometimes the break is cosmetic and sometimes it makes the cases unusable. :thumbsup:

You could try cross referencing part number of different brands. It seems to me that Pivot Works has the same number kit for the Warrior and Banshee, but don't hold me to that. I didn't check my facts before posting.

I hear things as well, but I have a hard time figuring out if the voices in my head are real or not. :biggrin:

A hot copy of Catia V5 ought to have the FEA package with it. It takes alot of time of learning the software before you get meaningful FEA results. It also rapes your cpu when you actually do the coputations to the exten that it is sometimes best to leave it overnight or possibly several nights. It all depends on part complexity and the mesh size you use. On the other hand a heim may not be the best thing to apply FEA to as it is just as easy to manually calculate a three point bend load. If you are worried about the strength of an entire system then, sure model a heim and run an FEA routine on the assembly, but if it's just the heim you're interested in then you should be able to work it by hand much faster. :thumbsup: