FireHead

It sounds like you have an excuse to go to Walmart.

I saw that most of the new shocks were going to the fork type lower mount. I am sure we could make that work but the resevoir location may be a problem like you said. I ahven't looked into it that much. I will have to cruise the internet a bit and see what's out there. As for the modeling technique goes, there are several ways to skin the proverbial cat. It all boils down to your design intent. In your case you would be looking to make an upright. Therefore, you would want to model all the parts that you would need to manufacture seperately and then assemble them. If you were then going to take this one step further and send the parts out to be made, then it would be very easy to make seperate prints based on your seperate parts, then you would also be able to cook a BOM and assembly instructions very easily based off of your assembly. :thumbsup: In regards to the spindle itself, you should be looking to revolve that part, not extrude it. That may it's based off of one sketch and not three or more like would be needed if you extruded it.

First off, that is what most of the aftermarket arms that run heims use, so I am sure that's reasonable. As a double check, and as a bit of random engineering info, when specifying the size of a heim when it will see a bending load, you must assume that it is only as strong a bar of the material the heim is made out of at a diameter that is the same as the minor diameter of the thread. :thumbsup:

I bet it happenms all the time around where I live. All the flatbillers that run around living off their parents ride pretty much stock bikes and you see them in for service all the time at Mission motorsports. My reasoning is: I personally have blown quite a few Banshee shocks, so it must be fairly easy to do even if you are just riding around your driveway. :shoothead:

I agree. You have to be careful with some of those Works shocks that are out there though. Some of them that I have seen are pretty beat up. :thumbsup:

The neato thing about the Noss head is that you don't have to change out the head studs. You also can get a discount from Modquad for being a member here. :thumbsup:

I got away without modding anything when I put my shocks on. This is not the case for everyone though. My shocks are soft and not stiff like other people's are. Of course, I run next to no preload on them and I way 220 .lbs. Judging by peopls's comments about the stiffness, I am prompted to wonder if something is internally different in the shocks between different years. I suppose it could be a quality control issue as well. :thumbsup:

This is excellent advice! IMO By the time you put the money into the YFZ shocks to make them ride well, you can have set of Works shocks that perform just as well. much sooner. As I have said in other threads, I only run YFZ shocks on the front of my bike because I got them for free, they work well, and I am a cheap and lazy bastard. YFZ shocks are pretty much ridiculously over priced these days as well. :thumbsup:

You could always make your own spindle shafts. Why are you making new uprights? IMO how you construct the a-arms really depends on your skill level and resources available. The fabricated plate design seen obove would be really easy if you had access to a water jet, but they probably aren't the strongest thing for a given weight. Round tube arms like the Janssen arms that I have copied are probably the most efficient style of arm, but they seck to make because of the bends required. The trigonometric arms that a couple people have made on here are a bit of a struggle because you can't really run straight lengths of tube for the upper arm. Of course if you are willing to modify and/or relocate mounting points then the arm style and manufacturing technique is whole differnet problem. I believe that I will be trying to make a Dean Sundahl'esque frame for a project after my triple engine and frame are done. ::

Definition as provided by www.dictionary.com: 14. Finance. a. a sum paid or charged for the use of money or for borrowing money. b. such a sum expressed as a percentage of money borrowed to be paid over a given period, usually one year. :biggrin:

I would tend to agree with you about the price of yfz450 shocks. I wouldn't have them on any of my bikes if I hadn't gotten them for free and am too cheap to do anything else. :thumbsup:

That would be a feather valve as opposed to a reed valve?

Damn straight. :thumbsup:

Yikes. I hate going on rides where an owl ass rapes you. :laugh:

Word. :thumbsup:

I say 8 paddles will get the job done. I don't think you make enough power to turn 9 or 10 paddles, they will just bog your engine down. :thumbsup:

Good call. I forgot all about needing the puller. I'm retarded. :shoothead:

It sounds like you have an air leak in the intake tract causing it to lean out. Check your gaskets and seals for crack or signs of leakage. You may wind up need to do a leak down test on your engine. :thumbsup:

The cranks usually don't say hot rods on anything other than the rods. However you can buy replacement rod and make a stock crank look just like a stock replacement hot rods crank. I am not sure how you would determine if it's a modified stock crank or an actual hotrods cranks. Either way it doesn't matter, they are roughly the same quality. :thumbsup:

Generally people have savings accounts in a bank. That way your money grows interest instead of just gathering dust in a jar. j/k :yelrotflmao:

Length and virtual swing arm lenght would be the factors in picking a shock from another bike. Of course it would also be nice if the top of the shock bolted right up to the Banshee frame without any modification. :thumbsup:

I enjoy the Skat Trak Haulers as well. Let us know how you ride your bike and what the modifications are so that we may better help you figure out how many paddles you need. :thumbsup:

Woods porting would be a port style, but I have never heard anyone call a port style woodsy. :thumbsup:

I would get the head off first before you try to remove the cylinders. After that, do the rubber mallet technique as mentioned above. You may have a seized piston that is preventing you from getting the whole deal off. :thumbsup:

A timing plate is pretty much all you need. You will need to do a plug chop to make sure the jetting is ok. Sometimes you have to rejet, sometimes you just have to fiddle with the air screw and needle position. :thumbsup: