FireHead

I know you know how to use SolidWorks. You should be able to pick up the important points relative to each other (swingarm pivot, shock mount, linkage pivot location). Then start modeling parts and set up a kinematic animation so that you can simulate the suspension movement. It shouldn't take you more than a week to have something proved out in you spare time. Then learn how to use a CNC mill, and make the thing yourself. The experience you will get will be worth way more than the part you make. I'll volunteer to help you if you need it. Of course I can volunteer one of the Zeiss CMM's at my work if some one wants an exact model of the Elka part. :thumbsup:

http://www.trinityracing.com/index.html

Trinity is not that bad if you go talk to them in person. Granted when I go there, I know what I want and they haven't done any work for me.

Surprise.......................I think we have been saying that they are quite worthless for awhile now. :biggrin:

Basically you need to throw a 5C collet rig in the head stock and put a dead center in that. Then wou need to put a live center in the tail stock and place your dial indicator on a mag. base on or about the tool post. After you have that set, put the crank inbetween cennters and roll it over by hand. You shoul be inspecting the main bearing areas and the o.d. of the webs. If these are all running true then your pins should be in phase. One of the things I like about the lathe trueing method is that you can whack on the crank to straighten it out without having to take it out of your measuring setup everytime. :thumbsup: You can make the call on how much run out you want (this may be dictated by the accuracy of your dial indicator). I ususally true my cranks to within 5 microns or less total runout, but for everyone else 30 microns or less is probably satisfactory.

I used the same brand and model of welder. :thumbsup:

Yeah, that makes sense. My red bike on good day only made 72 horsepower on an engine dyno. On a chassis dyno the best I have ever got to the rear wheels is 67 horsepower. The reason I was fooling around with my lock out weights was when I was having a launch problem drag racing in the heavy sand at Pismo. That turned out to be more of a suspension setup issue and I never put the lockout back to normal. I agree that a dunable override is the fool proof way to go. I haven't had an excuse to tear into this engine for a long time and I am too lazy to do it just to change out a transmission I cannot complain much about. At one point, a bit ago, I was going to start making my own transmission parts, but I still haven't started that project. My triple and shenanigans at work have been taking up all my time lately. :thumbsup:

My tranny is mostly stock and I can shift pretty easily under heavy accleration, clutch or not. Of course I have fiddled with the weights on my lockout, but not so much as it perform that differently. Possibly the few different lock ups that are out there perform differently? All the pieces that I have ever owned were made by Direct Drive. :thumbsup:

You have to be careful when selecting your loc-tite as green may also be sleeve and bearing lock, which is nastier than red loc-tite. :thumbsup:

That's funny. Although I am not sure that any one is arguing with Black Banshee.

Those look very nice. :thumbsup:

Wiseco pistons are what I would use. You can't go wrong with an EBC clutch. Cometic gaskets are also a good deal. I would definitely put a ProDesign or Noss cool head on there. They cool much better and allow you to taylor the compression ratio of you engine to your needs. :thumbsup:

Medium strength, "blue" Loc-tite is the way to go on those. :thumbsup:

If he got the pipes second hand they are certainly not going to do anything special for him. It would have been nice if they offered to fix them for free, but put yourself intheir position. They price they gave him for the work is discounted a bit I expect. If it were me, I would probably fix it for free and juts charge for the chroming. I fee l it would be a completely different situation if you just ordered them directly and they came fresh out of the box that way. That is what most of the people who had wuality issues with CPI are talking about. :thumbsup:

If you can doodle something for me to see, I would be happy to take a look at it. I am not the world's leading suspension expert, but I have done it before and will atleast be able to apply a bit of math to ensure that you haven't created a turd structurally, or kinetically speaking. Gimeeabeer tends to know quite a bit about this sort of thing as well. Pinging him for ideas might be worth your time.

I wouldn't knock stainless steel as a fastener material. I would however stay away from alot of the specialty "bolt kits" that are out there simply because they use non-graded Chinese made fasteners. I have found that it was worth my time to go to a specialty fastener place and make my own kit. It takes more time, and can cost more money, but atleast you will have the piece of mind of knowing you have the correct, quality parts. :thumbsup:

That sounds like a good plan and is completely reasonable. :thumbsup:

I will definitely have to look into the taxes. It's pretty ridiculous if you want buy any newer property down here. On top of the general property taxes that are sky high, you also have the Mello-Roos taxes, and most housing areas have home owners association fee that is mandatory. In the end it can add up to almost as much as your mortgage payment in a given month. I plan on renting a town house with a double attached garage for a year or so when I first get up there so I have a chance to look around and feel things out. :thumbsup:

That's right, I forgot the high and low beam power came from different poles on the stator. I only used the yellow with the red stripe in the last OEM harness that I had. It just goes to show you that I have a memory of a two year old. :thumbsup:

Dammit. When I was looking for those things a few years ago tow Yamaha dealers told me that I had to buy new cylinders since you couldn't get those parts. Of course that's all before I joined the forum and probably didn't know any better. I did try running without the plugs as well as fashioning my own plugs out of a few different materials. In both cases I wound leaking water, both inside and outside the engine. I suppose the moral of my story is that I learn something new every day. :thumbsup:

I bet he knows a guy that owns things though. He sort of seems like the type that tells stories about other peoples stuff as if it were his own. :thumbsup:

The stock reeds I had seemed to be made of plastic. There owas one on each side of the cage and the had metal overtravel ramps on top of them.

The Clymer manual I have contains the wiring diagrams and colors for all the years of the Banshee. I am pretty sure it has what you need, but if not, I will have a look in mine before I go to work in the morning. :thumbsup:

Its going to be a kidney shaped rubber piece. I am interested in what you are supposed to if you lose these things, since Yamaha doesn't sell them separately. Several years ago I lost one of the plugs, but I never found a replacement or any other alterantive, so I had to weld the coolant jacket shut inorder to use the cylinders. Needless to say, I do not reccomend doing this, and I didn't run the cylinders for very long. I wound up scrapping them and using part of them to prove out some tool paths on. :thumbsup:

It could be the shift shaft spring or the shift shaft itself could be bent. :thumbsup: