FireHead

I am pretty good friends with a couple folks that work at the Tacoma Screw in Tacoma. If you need anything special or to be less expenmsive, I might be able to help you out. My biggest problem is that I never made a complete list of fastners for a Banshee. If I got that done I am pretty sure I could get atleast a few of each fastener made out of whatever I want for free. ::

I will be interested in how your fasteners respond when you start using them. I am hoping they work great, not only for your sake, but because I am pretty sure I don't want to do a fastener scavenger hunt (it's not worth my time these days (I am getting old, I can remember when my time was worth $15/hour, then fastener searches were worth my time)), so I would like to buy a kit. Luckily for me, I don't care how shiney they are as long as they don't rust or break off. I actually had an interesting conversation with John Hudd (I suspect most folks don't know the name. If you care ask me and I'll explain.) today while I was at work doing some frantic machine work on my triple. Somehow the conversation shifted towards plating and chroming. He started telling me a story about the AARP company and how they had been testing competitors products and they were finding alot of the Asian import fasteners that were chromed had not gone through a a final heat process to remove hydrogen embrittlement, thus they were finding that they broke, stretched, stripped, and had the fastener heads pop off without warning well after they had been installed. I am not sure if anyone finds that information interesting or useful, but by now it should be clear that I like to tell stories about racing stuff. :geek:

I am not sure what I just looked at? I have been to your part of Idaho and I can understand your boredom. :happy:

WD 40 would probably be a very good choice for breaking the gloss off a new cylinder. I usually don't reccomend WD40 for anything, but between the previously stated case and lubing a chain for use in the sand, I will have to make an exception. Like I said before, if you tell me exactly what you are doing, what tools, and machines you are using. I will be happy to recommend a proper lubricant or bath. This is something I have spent a lot of time developing at work and it's one of my hot button topics. :thumbsup:

Mineral spirits is probably good for remove the ropey finish left by the boring head all the way up to breaking the gloss off of a nicasil'd cylinder. There probably isn't anything wrong with using ATF, but I might worry about some of the newer spec. ATF's and having their detergent package gum up the stones (or cemented carbide). :geek:

A +4" arm on a Banshee that makes some decent power is going to beat the crap out of you on the trails. Although when I hear trails, I think of the Naches Trail in WA or the trails out by Goldbar, WA. If there is an sort of big ruts, roots or rocks in the trail that you can't maneuver around around easily, I am not sure you can imagine what it take to move a Cub motor with a longer swingarm through that type of stuff. Between the diminished turning radius, the reduced traction, the less consistant ride, and all of the clutch work required you will not be having a good time within the first 30 minutes of your ride. I don't care how good of rider you are or how in shape you are, you will get physically hammered. I know from experience, as a Banshee like what it sounds like you are building, was what I got to borrow this past July when I went riding with one of my buddies up in WA. I am a pretty strong guy, a pretty good rider, and have a fairly high tolerance to bad driving experiences, but by the time we had made it past the point where the Pacfic Crest Trail crosses the Naches trail I was tired, pissed off (because I couldn't keep up with my buddy's inexperienced girlfriend on a Warrior), and the bike was really hot. On the other hand, some people on hear think fire roads are trails, in which case you won't have any problems. Obviously you can do whatever you want, but I think it would be wise to listen to one of us that is telling you to do something different.

I would have kept the +4" arm. :woot:

That sounds pretty reasonable. :thumbsup:

I saw that yesterday. The bike looks pretty nice. I don't really like the way the CVT fits in the stock frame, snowmo powered bikes (that's just a personal preference though). I think those pipes maybe cut and welded snowmo pipes. If that's the case, a proper set of pipes might make a big difference. If someone bought it that I knew, I'd ride it once for sure. :thumbsup:

Is the TORS system removed from your carbs? If it is removed and you go to balance the carbs and all you have is a Clymers manual, this could be a stumbling block. Congratualtions on sorting your slides out. :thumbsup:

Some of the eBay arms that are out there vary alot in quality. You have to be careful when going that route. There are enough hacks out there that seem to consider themselves fabricators to really make you worry. A swing arm is one of those things that can break and kill you fairly easily. Just so no one reads too much into what I just said, Loco seems to do good work and I don't think I would have a problem using one of his arms. I didn't want him to get grouped in with my statement of crappy at home fabricators because he is clearly not one. :thumbsup:

I appreciate the warning. It looks like I may wind up having to put my own bolt kit together. In a week or two I will be within driving distance of a Tacoma Screw location so I should be all set. :thumbsup:

There is a clause attached to that statement in that it is only true when used with a inertia brake dyno. :woot: Sorry, ojcool, I am an asshole and I couldn't resist. :yelrotflmao:

There are several differnt lubricants you can use when honing. It all depends on the desired surface finish, your equipment, the material you are honing, and the hone tool itself. If you are honing at home with a hand drill on a cast iron cylinder sleeve a hypoid gear oil or Rapid Tap should get the job done. If you are doing something besides that, let me know and I can tell you what to use. :thumbsup:

I did not know that about getting the negative feedbacks removed from users that are not registered any more. It seems to me that they used to do that automatically several years ago. If you have link to where I need to where I need to email them to work on this issue that would be great. I recall that I am not a fan of eBay's help menu, :geek:

I don't know if my buyer paid for Paypal insurance, but I bought the shipping label from UPS via the Paypal portal, so that have all that info. I am not all that worried about the money as it was only a couple hundred dollars, but it's the principle of the whole thing. I mean really, fuck up the carbs and then try and tell me a week later that they were damaged in shipping? What sort of normal person does something like that? I am just hoping I don't get any negative feedback on eBay. I think I am down to a 98% rating due to a couple other douche bags. One guys left negative feedback for no apparent reason and then apologized afterwards which or course does me no good, and then I bought a couple items that turned out to basically be a box of rocks or an empty box when delivered (those sellers aren't registered members anymore, but atleast I get to keep the retaliatory negative feedback :shoothead: ).

It depends on if you have had any porting done to the cylinders as well as if they are DM cylinders or not. :thumbsup:

That looks like a bit of a scam to me. It might be believable if the seller had some feedback.

I have the HQ open in the background at work all the time. As long as I get my work done in a stellar fashion no one cares. If anyone besides my boss did care, I am sure they would be subject to verbal abuse at a later date. :cool:

Those are good arms. I am not 100% sure, but I think LSR was making Cascade's arms at one point.

You need to run the lowest octane possible without detonation of autoignition. That is the only way you will see a positive difference on a dynamometer.

This is a potentially risky maneuver. It does work, but if you don't feel comfortable doing it, don't try it. There is a potential to break teeth off gears with this method. :thumbsup:

IMO the single line with the T-fitting is a much more elegant and professional solution. I the parallel single lines looks much cheaper nad certainly has a bit more opportunity to leak (though it;s not that likely). I suppose one might also look at the twin parallel lines as being inferior as there is at least 1/3 more line involved in that setup as well as 1/3 more sealing surfaces. From an engineering standpoint the T setup is a thought out solution while the twin parallel setup appears to be more of DIY deal (up until this thread I didn't know people were selling line kits like that, I actually thought people were doing it themselves at home with off the shelf part from their local hydraulic parts vendor). :ermm:

There were some people that had alot of problems with CFM on here awhile back. I am not sure if it was the guy or the product, but you might want to figure that out before going that direction. You can't go wrong with a Quicksand or LSR arm. In most cases you will get what you pay for in an arm. Loco's arms are very strong, but it come with a weight penalty. Loco and BigRed have big engines and run their bikes alot harder than most people (two people I know running Loco's arms, but there are several more folks running them on here). :thumbsup:

What the hell? Since when are we sensoring the internet? If I had a kid, as long as they weren't looking at porn, joining an online cult, or being seduced by a child molester, I wouldn't care what they are looking at on the internet. That's the whole point isn't it?