FireHead

After I read your first post I started picturing someone doing exactly what I said, but with out properly supporting the cover. Soon after I pictured the cover shooting across the cement garage floor with the water pump bearing in sideways.

GT makes a very nice arm. They are expensive though as you said. I think GT or Dave Moore is where the arm for my triple will be coming from. :thumbsup:

No, unfortunately (or fortunately depending on your point of view) not SCORE Class 8. The Class 6-8 that I am dealing with refers to the classification of commerical over-the-road and offroad trucks. From what I understand, I will be managing our portion of the engine program for a Pikes Peak hill climbing truck and a land speed record truck from PACCAR and Freightliner repsectively. So atleast I am not completely out of racing. Moving is gay. Not only do I have to work at my current job p until this coming Saturday, I have to try and get all the other moving bs taken car of during business hours (cancel cable, power, water, etc.), then I have to do all the same bs all over again for mey new address. It's a good thing the movrs provide a packing service because I am pretty sure I haven't done any of that yet. Plus, I have been spending a bunch of time afterwork, hacking away at my triple so that it will be at a point when I leave CA that I will be easily able to tranfer the machine work to a friend in WA. :shoothead:

I am sure that given enough time, this situation will come up again. Maybe next time I will be in a postition to buy another bike. :ninja:

It's good that you said that. I sometimes forget that details I pass off as being obvious probably need to be specifically talked about on here.

Yeah, what he said. :thumbsup:

Hmmmmm. I am really not all that excited about taking the chance with getting ticketed. I suspect my current setup is near 100db or so. I may just pick up a set of the Cascade silencers for piece of mind. I wish I could find some better pictures of those silencers on a bike though. :thumbsup:

Pipe diameter is purely a function of exhaust gas volume multiplied by flow rate. Altitude obviously has some effect as it effects the density of the exhaust gas, but that's it. You may want to verbaly abuse whom ever it was that told you that big bore pipes don't work well at high altitude. :thumbsup:

Just like the title asks, how do you save a video to you hard drive from YouTube? :geek:

Hmmmm. I may have to check out this fastenerguy then. Like I said before, I am not really all that concerned with how polished the bolts are. :thumbsup:

The twister cylinder block has a different water jacket and inlet/outlet condiguration than the standard Banshee system. The Cheetah cylinder are fairly similair to stock cylinders with regard to cooling system configuration. :thumbsup: Does that make sense?

Out of curiousity, why do you want a taller steering stem? I had one on a Banshee several years ago and it felt weird to me ergonomically speaking.

The chain binding may have been a misleading way to describe my concern. The longer the chain has to run unsupported under load, the more it will want to take on a D shape as opposed to an oval shape. The extreme case like that is what I was calling chain bind. I don't think chain bind might be the right term for that particular phenomenon. If the shift forks wind up working well, I may consider trying to give the design and the manufacturing process to one of the builders out there so that others can benefit from it. I have done something a little different with repsect to capturing the shift drum and dealing with thrust through the drum. I actually didn't know people had been having problems like you described. I designed mine the way I did because I thought the OEM design from Yamaha was kind of screwey. Making the cases out of a billit of aluminum ought to help a little with the problem you describe as well. So far the only thing I am unhappy with on this engine is that I couldn't come up with a better way to easily improve the shifter shaft. There is alot of torsional flex that occurs with that part that takes alot of the feel out of the shifter. Maybe by the time I am ready to do another revision of the engine I will have come up with an idea on how to fix that.

Did you look at my suggestion in your thread in the Wanted forum? :laugh:

The Twister cylinder block ought to cool better than a Cheetah will as well. :thumbsup:

I am moving to Portland, OR. Now, have seen what appears to be an ORV license on the bikes from Oregon at Florence, what is the deal with that if they don't require registration? If you don't have to register a bike what do you pay the DMV $55 for? Either way I think I would like to have a title for my triple. Does Oregon not issue ATV titles? I guess I am a little confused at this point.

If I were to guess at how the adjusting mechanism on your shocks work, is that there is a split ring that goes in the grooves on the shock body. Thus when the collar vocer the ring it locks it in place. This tpe of deal would be similair in concept to how the brake side of an aftermarket rear axle is retained. To make the adjustment you need to compress the spring. Then once you've done that you should be able to slide the collar down the shock body to expose the spring clip. Finally move the spring clip to the groove you want it to be in, slide the collar back over it, and release the spring. Let me know if you think that is how your preload adjustment works and/or if the method I described actually works.

Flame propogation with alcohol is faster than with gasoline.

If you had a second outlet on your fuel tank, you could simply run a the wet circuit of the nitrous system from that. You should be able to run alcohol for the wet circuit as well. I am not sure why someone would tell you that you had to run race gas. That would make the engine very hard to tune. :geek:

What state is it from? What year of bike is it for? What happened to the bike it used to belong to? In the end none of it probably matters to me, but I am just curious. :thumbsup:

I think that the YFZ gaurds will foul the kick starter. Past that, I am not sure how you would mount them on a Banshee without totally redoing them, in which case you are better off waiting for a Banshee set to show up on eBay or make your own guards. :thumbsup:

I am doing the billet shift forks for two reasons, the first being I want to put proper bearing in the fork fingers (hopefully better than an RZ250 shift fork). The second is that I belive the override modifications I made to the transmission will ingrease the bending load on the forks, so I designed the forks a little differently. Yeah, I have been looking at running a 530 series chain as well. My real problem is that I cannot get my chain strength calculations to match the chain manufacturers advertised tensile strength (DID ATV X-Ring for example). Via the simulation work that I have done so far, a heavier chain does not seem to take away much from the engine like you might think it would via a heavier rotating mass. I am not worried about breaking a chain if I buy one that is within in the specifications of my engines output. I am worried about a larger chain binding under hard accelleration. I think that could be resolved by reposition in a cahin guide or two. :geek:

Nice buying maneuver. You have to love it.

Just be glad I have too many other projects to keep me busy right now. Otherwise, I would have already Paypal'd the owner the money and would be having the bike picked up tomorrow morning via the trucking company my dad works for. :ohmy:

The hose that went to it should wind up at a T fitting somewhere mid-motor. Remove the hose and the T fitting and replace the other line that connected to the T fitting with a longer hose that runs from the rear case vent down to the ground. Direct Drive usually gives you a deal on all the ancillary Yamaha OEM parts if you buy them when you buy their cover. They have all the seals, bearing, and such in stock at their facility. :thumbsup: