FireHead

I swear I saw and Ani-GIF of a set of male breasts bouncing in a similair fashion. I would love to find it and post it in my signature in protest to Bansh-eman having to remove his picture, but I am a liitle afraid to type in bouncing male breasts into Google.

From what I gather over on Planet Sand the triple cylinder engine class breaks down like this for most tracks around the Oregon area: 3 Cylinder Class ------------------------------ 1. 1325cc and Up 2. 0-1324cc The question is: What are the advantages and disadvantages of being in either of the two displacement classes and why? I would ask this question over on PS, but there are alot of twats over there that buy all of their stuff as opposed to build and tend to not know what they are talking about or distort the truth to make themselves feel better. I would just assume not have to read through all that to be able to get good information from the few industry folks that are over there.

I suppose that making sure you have compression, spark, and fuel are the first things you need to determine. If you have all that, then than any spark ignited engine will run as long as you can get all three things to happen at the right time. :thumbsup:

It might have been last year. I don't have first hand knowledge. I am just repeating what I heard other on here say. :thumbsup:

I haven't heard any problems with the Alloy bolt kits that would have been solved by any of the stuff on your piece of paper.

There are a couple other folks on here that have a similair bumper. I don't claim to know the difference between the Duncan, Roll, and Tag bumper as illustrated in the thread about your bumper. :thumbsup:

What do the spark plugs look like? Do you have compression on the left cylinder?

Get a new frame is the easiest way. You need to have some fabrication skills to convert your frame from j-arms to a-arms.

You can always post a thread here or on YFZ Central to see if anyone knows the guys you bought the shocks from and can help you get in contact with him. You should be able to see if the money order has been cashed via the place you bought the money order from. If it hasn't you should be able to cancel it and get your money back. Not to defend anyone, but crap happens to folks sometimes where they can't get on the internet or contact you to let you know what the deal is. That is usually the exception rather than the rule, but it's worth saying. Good luck getting that sorted out.

I think the spring from Cascade might not be a high enough spring rate for your weight if you are doing any jumping or hard dune riding at all. For some reason I seem to have the preconcived notion that everyone in the world is my size or smaller. :shoothead:

That picture sort of sucks. It's sort of decieving, but that part of the trail you can barely walk up. I am having a rough time finding a good picture of the actual trail without a vhicle on it on the internet. This picture is from part of the trail comeing down the East side. This picture is from an area near where the trail crosses several other on the East Side. Like I said before, unless the trails you are thinking of are more like logging or fire roads, you'll be looking to ride somewhere else or sell your bike real quick with a Cub engine in it.

I rode in one in Japan. I suppose I should say that I rode on one as I had to sit in the back because I didn't fit in the cab. My knees were in the dash and my head was on the roof. :ermm:

FYI: Some people on here have had alot of problems with the quality of some of Podos products. I have personally seen one that was new, not even close to being straight, had welds that look like they had been done by a drunken 4 year old with a stick welder. The chrome on the particular arm was able to be picked off with your finger nail pretty much everywhere. I guess some people have got good products from them, but from what I have seen and heard, that seems to be the exception rather than the rule. :thumbsup:

Thhis what I think of when someone says trail. The picture is on the West side of the Naches Pass.

I think Loco might be Canadian.

At 260lbs. you are a bit out of the weight class of experience that I have. If you weighed 215lbs. then you would be very near what I weigh. Check out the articel at the link below. I think it will get you most of the way there is you pretend the motorcycle in the diagram is an ATV. http://www.4strokes.com/tech/racesag.asp Also, to make sure we are clear, the spring and the shock might as well be separate parts as they have very little effect on each other. If the spring allows for too much sag now, the shock work isn't going to help that. What the shock will do is allow for better control of the spring action. For instance if you got on the bike and bounced around before the shock was revalved for the longer arm, the shock would seem to be move much faster and more eratically. The spring will travel the same amount eveytime with a given load no matter what the shock is valved for. The valving of the shock just controls the rate at which that movement occurs. The principle that surronds this is that you change the suspension motion ratio with a longer arm. Read that link and what I wrote and let me know what questions you have afterwards. :thumbsup:

I like the looks of that thing. There is a guy in Bellingham, WA that has a couple of of RD400's that are done up as cafe racers. They are fast enough to scare the crap out of me. I think I might need one of those too. ::

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/87-90-Bansh...097696010QQrdZ1 I saw this and figured someone here needs these. At the moment they are reasonably priced. :thumbsup:

You want to have a certain amount of sag when you sit on the bike. Otherwise, you would really only have suspension travel in bump (if that makes sense?). I don't have typing a primer on setting rear suspension sag in me at the moment. If you google it or have a QUAD Magazine from a couple months ago you whould be able to find instructions as to whgat is acceptable for a sag measurement with regard to your weight and rinding style. If you can't find what you need or have questions, I promise that I will check this thread later tonight and help you out. :thumbsup: (Off the top of my head 3" of sag sounds acceptable with a +4" arm and a 200lbs.'ish rider.)

I put my case savers on over the top of the shift drum cover. I think if you removed the cover and installed a case saver, you may find yourself with a leaky transmission.

A heavy gear oil with an EP additive makes a surprisingly good ferrous metal cutting fluid in a pinch. :thumbsup:

I agree with most of that. I think if you pack the carrier with grease when you reassemble it, you shouldn't need ato install a zerk fitting. I might have a couple problems with a zerk fitting and the fact that you would be trying to force greae through a sealed ball bearing as well. The axle could still be bent. That sleeve that is stuck on there should slide fairly freely if the axle and the sleeve are in good condition. Remember, it will take less than .001" of runout on the axle before you start having problem like you describe. You may want tofind the most flat surface you can find and roll the axle back and forth on it. If the axle appears to wobble (technical term) at all, then it's bent and you should just get a new G-Force unit from RMATV. If you need more help, let me know. :thumbsup:

I assume this is a picture of what everyone in this thread has for powervalves? Like I said before, I didn't know these valves came with hoses on them, let alone anyone who uses the hoses. :thumbsup:

None of the fasteners are cheap when you buy them individually. If some one put together a a list of fasteners required for a complete Banshee, I will see if can get you most of them for cheap or free. :thumbsup:

I was going to ask what that guy meant and who made the bolt kit he was talking about. Then I thought to myself, "wait a minute, since when do normal fasteners require special instructions?" :shoothead: