knight_ripper

First thing is you should do it yourself. Get a clymers (30.oo) and head out. ITs way easier than you think. If its that low, you will probably need to get them bored out. Last time I got my cyl's bored it cost me 45.oo a cylindr..and since we have two....well 90 for the bore. now depending on what type of pistons you get, you will need two pistons clips and rings. the Pro-X piston kit that I got ran about 150-175 if I remember right. Youll need a ring remover(found at the hardware store for 8 bux) and a TORQUE Wrench (25 bux at Kragen). Parts & Bore=200 Tools & Manual=70 Learning how to do it yourself then riding her=PRICELESS Hope this helps

yup...mine move around too. Weird huh. When I first got um I wondered the same thing.....hahahahha enjoy um.

?????????????????????? I dont know weather to go buy a shee load of gas cleaner........OR LAUGH MY ASS OFF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I had similar problem awhile ago. It wouldnt leak sitting idleing but when I took off, I ended up with coolant on my ride, and my boot. Id shut her off to hear her overheating...boiling in there. Problem was the O-Ring on the water pump. Ya know the one thats on the outside of it that seals when you put the cover on. The little o-ring that sits on that part that sticks thru. Im not really explaining it well, cuz its been awhile since Ive taked her apart. PM me if you have any questions. Anyway, replaced that o-ring and my problems were solved.

I just purchased a 5.6 Ims from them. After I got it cleaned up ended up being a really nice tank. My dealings with them so far are pretty good. Hopefully they like my resume and want to have their stuff on my shee. I'd love to run their stuff all around. Would have to be the right deal tho...considering I got sooo much in my LS setup. I think they are a Fox Shock dealer too. Im real curious as to how they perform too. Thanks again for the tank.

Yup...Lone Star has great instructions. But I did need a few tools. I got the Level Finder from Ace hardware, it was 8 dollars. I also needed a stright edge, and a tape measure. but all in all shee is doin good. I finally got her together and all aligned up. Im still a little toe'd out...gotta fix her this weekend, but man how easy are these things to adjust. way simple once you get started. thanks for the info.

Man I thougt I was bottoming out with stock arms. But now with the +2's on front, its straight mush. Can I adjust these things. I guess I could call works...but what fun would that be. They are just dual rates, no resies. only bout 1 year old. Shee is soo squishy. Im lovin the ride. but when I hit big air it bottoms hard. I mean Im catchin rocks with my nerf bars. hehe. My rear is reworked by TCS. I know I need aftermarkets all the way around. Thats in a month or so. but for now. Is there a way to crank these up to make um a little stiffer?

my Lone Star +2 tie rods are 13 1/2 inches from end to end....not includiing the rod ends. not sure how long the actual arm itself is...I would like to know as well. I got a used set of LSR so I would like to verify too. in fact after I installed um, i noticed the tie rods they gave me were too long, I had to order up a new set. thats why I now the +2's are 13 1/2 inches.

I got dual rate works on the front now. They were awesome on my stock a-arm set up, compared to stock shocks that is. But I just changed to +2 LoneStar's, and Im bottoming out like a mother. I need a new setup quick. Im goin with TCS. Although FOX is making some serious steps in the suspension market....anyone considering those?

I just got a pair off ebay for my buddy's 400ex. they were used, and beat up for 350. We got new Heims for 85 bux, and powder coated for 125. then went with trip rate works for 800. not a bad deal. brand new roll's with works, for 560. Plus the dude threw in his SS brake lines, and Tie Rods. All in all an awesome deal. Look for used ones and re-build um. cheapest way to go.

I just ordered +2 tie rods from Lone Star. 13 1/2 inches they are. In fact the guy I got my +2 set from sent me 14 1/8 tie rods. I got um on and my shee was soooo toed in. wayyyy to long. I too want to know the length of Lone Star +2's. I would like to verify that the arms are +2 too.

And the winner is..... The aluminum chunk totally worked. Well I used two thin strips of metel....but all in all...works awesome. Stayed up late last night making the metal mounts...but they work killer. gonna go home tonight and bolt her on. Cant wait to see how shee handles...or should I say how I handle her. thanks for the info. By the way....like I said above....IMS said to bend the SS member. I tried that....but its wayyyyy hard to bend....without fukin up your gussets. I didnt have any luck with that. So then I called Janssen Motorsports. they are killer. anyway, they just reinforced what crazywheelerman said. In fact they said that adding the metal in there might be better, cuz I have bent it. So by adding the metal...or aluminum in crazy's case, just moved the SS back to its stock location. funny eh. Sapposedly the stock gas tank should go in and out without a problem. well...mine is wayyy tight. hope this helps the next guy.

Dont need it? Cant you feel the pull from race gas? I sure can. U can see my sig...Im same boat as you guys. Bout to put on the plate and was wondering the same thing. I always mix 50-50 tho...just cuz I like the pull...and the smell...lol. Sonocco I think its called, is 110 also, and is wayy cheaper than VP if you can find it around you.

I wonder if that aluminum chunk changes your steering at all? Looking at it, if I bend the member forward the tank moves forward, which fixes the bolt alignment problem. and it seems like the aluminum chunk will fix the problem with the clamp hitting. Why am I having to change shit to get it to fit. I dont see any bends or cracks. I guess it could be bent...I have rolled her a few times...on seperate occasions. anyone else use these tanks have any install problems? I wanna ride with it this weekend. i just dont want to start doin shit till i feel right about it. whatcha think?

I just talked to IMS. First thing dude asked me is if Ive rolled it at all. Im like ...uhhhh ya. He said that with alot of shees that steering stem member gets bent slightly toward the rider. and that bending it out some, will get the results Im looking for. makes sense. should fit if I do. hope i dont break the gussets there doin some bendin.

1 tooth in the front is worth 3 in the back. I will run a 13 in the dunes. but run 14/15 in the trails. and yes anything higher than a 15 will take from your low end a bunch. I like the 15/41 setup too.

Steering clamp hits the tank, and the holes dont match the frame mounts. seems like it would be easier to drill holes in the frame than to bend the mounts of the tank. Anyone else have this problem? I have a Janssen +1+1 stem, with Tag 2's. And its the clamp thats hitting. If i move the tank back a bit, the clamp clears it, but then the alignment problem with the bolt holes gets worse. Second, I got this bad boy for some desert races this year. But I have 2 XC races before those Desert races. how comfy is this thing? I mean, will it be in the way for my XC races. It seems as if it will be big and in the way. Third, I was getting about 60 miles outta my stock tank, with this 5.6 tank, how many miles will I get outta it?

I started by taking of my lid. then drilled a bunch of holes in it. then I cut it away completely just leaving the parts to hold it up. shee runs way better exposed. sux for water tho...now I cant hit any. one drop and it stals out for a few minutes. I would run pods if I just ran dunes. but with all the trail and other shit i hit, i went with the K&N with the aluminum adaptor. foam is better for finer particles. K&N for the big stuff. Outerwears for the K&N's to keep out the finer stuff.

i agree ... its hard to see when your riding. but if you look real hard real quik you can see it.....hahahahaha....bam right in to a tree. the banshee vibrates like a mofo...almost need something with size 30 font. hahahaha I love mine, but I do wait till I stop to see how fast im cruizin. the clock is nice... I use mine mainly for the Top Speed and Odometer readings. Its also nice to to know that I only rode 1:45 out of a 7 hour ride too. lol...too busy pulling over for drinks.

a BIG freakin crowbar a big freakin hammer and some beer.

I ride there on occasion. This weekend..the 4th me and some budds are going up to Stonyford. We were talkin about hittin hollister instead...cuz it might be rainin. Hollister is cool...lovin those 1 way roads....but its a little rough in places.

I just bought an old yellow 5.6 gallon one for 65 shipped. And I considered that an awesome deal. hope that helps.

My boy is 4 and my girl is 2. I have the power wheels quad for a year now and the boy is way past it now. My girl is just starting to turn the thing and ride around the yard. Im glad to hear the e-ton is the way to go...specially weight wise. I gotta check um out. time to get a 50cc.

i have my fronts race cut and really only get wasted when turning in the mud or water. I was thinking of doing the back. I have the backs cut out like flames right now...looks killer in my book. but I was wondering about race cutting the back. doesnt sound like a good idea, considering thats where the real mud is. I love the fronts cut, really opened up everything up. I can see the ground and my tires alot easier..and I think it helps.

NO shit....i keep telling my wife that my 4 yr old boy is old enough to shoot.. lol