Lepew

I have a stock -2 for a round housing style carrier.

It might be worth the five bucks to have them removed by someone expeirenced. If you try it, lube up the bead as you try to work it off and keep on working around the tire. Sometimes leaving a pound or so in them to will keep the sidewall from collapsing. If you get one bead off and can't get the other because the sidewall collapses put a few pounds in, just don't seat the first bead all the way, then work the second off. I have seen a lot of my tires done this way, I've only done it myself on a couple of tires with a bottle jack and it took a lot longer than a newer tire machine.

A stock head is numbered in what order to torque them. Also torque them in two steps.

I was told the same crap about them being unreliable before I bought one. Now We have two. They are more maintenace in my opinion but what race machine isn't ?

Jetting the carbs different is bogus. What other mods besides the K+N? I'm no jetting guru but I know the carbs got to be jetted the same. If all you have is a K+n then you won't need that big of main.

contact toomey they will tell you what they suggest.

Your probably good up to 220 but thats getting close to the limit. The coolant will start to boil at 230 or so. How hot they run depends on the conditions. When I ride into a wind I can hammer on it constant and it won't get over 170. If I turn around and go with the wind It will heat up and I will have to cool it down constantly. When it gets hot I turn it towards the wind and let it cool. Its suprising how fast it will cool. A temp gauge is a great investment.

Your pilot is the stock size. I was wrong I couldn't remember what came original. Your main is close. Your needle if the clip is in the second groove from the top (the way it sits in the bike) you have leaned it from stock. I am assuming your bike is original except for what you listed. With pipes, filter and no airbox lid the clip on the needle should be move to the forth groove. Before you go messing with the jetting go with everything you had when it ran right. The same gas/oil and jets and put a new set of plugs in. Then see where your at. Sometimes when they are hard to start they just need a set of new plugs.

20 foot pounds

You need an off road permit and flag. All the dunes have fees and sound restrictions, slightly different depending where you ride. No you don't need a extended swingarm, your stock one will work fine. I'd buy a cheap set of paddles til I figured out what type of dune riding I liked. I have a set of hauler 20-10-8 8 paddle that are about half worn I'd sell for $45 without wheels if your interested. I ran them for awhile then replaced them with extreme haulers.

Yes

Why would you richen the main and pilot and lean the needle with your mods? your main only effects the top. your needle runs the middle.

Sounds like a plugged pilot. As soon as you give it throttle it starts to pick up fuel from the needle. Had this problem right after I changed main jets and didn't get all the sand out of the carb.

They outlawed booze and nudity on the sand just recently.

If you improved air flow move the needle up. That means move the clip towards the pointy end. You have the right idea in your head. This will richen the mid throttle. Don't forget about the mains also. If you try and contact who made your pipes they should be able to tell you what to jet it about with your mods.

Depends what you want to do. To slide around a lot go with the v paddles. If your planning to do any more mods get a 20-10-10 9 paddle hauler. The eights are fine for stock but don't have the hook up when you start adding more power. The raptor needs 20-10-10 9 paddle haulers. Four strokes need the hook up to transfer the torque.

I suggest the Paul Turners. Their chrome holds up really well also.

Do the top end. A decent machine shop will measure your pistions and cylinders for nothing but I will bet you they'll be out of specs. Bore, hone and chamfer $45 a hole and wiesco top end kit with gaskets and bearing $160.

I have both upper a-arms off a 98. Will sell or trade.

230 your coolant will start to boil........ then melt down!!! I don't ever let mine go over 220.

I was told before I bought a pair the extreme haulers that they have the same shape cup and highth paddle as the haulers but are thicker so they don't flex as much and last longer.

I suggest if your going to shorten it to also consider going to a round housing carrier. You get more traction on the rear wheels, move the center of gravity back and get a quicker cleaner chain adjuster all in a not to hard to build modification.

You will need to pull it and take it to a good machine shop. They make sure the journals are true within thousandths of a inch then tack it together so it won't turn with a tig welder. It is suggested if you have it out or you build your motor over 45HP.

INSTALL A TEMPERTURE GAUGE !!!! Yep I fought this to for awhile. Install a temperture gauge !!!! I changed head gasket, jets, radiator cap, water pump and cleaned up the water pump passages and added a coolant additive(Water Wetter) but it didn't help. Do check to make sure that it isn't somewhere else but it is either to hot or you have to much water in the overflow. If you overheat it you can usually tell by the gurgaling sound the motor and radiator make and the steam coming out the tube draining on the pipes. If you have water in your overflow it seems to find a way out the vent tube, mostly when bouncing around on the trails. I just don't keep any water in it. My wifes bike we just got rid of it all together and ran the hose from the radiator cap down to just above the pipe. Both our bikes we run temperture gauges from ESR. Now I know exactly how hot the motor is and barely have coolant pissing on my pipes. When I ride the dunes I run hard til I reach 230 F and park in the wind for a minute to let it cool. The temp. gauge was the best money I have ever spent on my bike.

If you have it out, have it trued and welded by a good machine shop. If you don't have it out don't worry about it til 45+HP. It isn't sometime you should try at home with a straight edge and mig welder.