Lepew

Typically your symtoms mean a plugged pilot jet. Thats where I would have gone first.

I wasted my money on a set of Wicked a-arms. The ball joints bottomed out before the shocks if I ran anything close to 0 camber. The ball joint boots always were splitting because the tapered stud on the ball joint was shorter than a stock banshee a-arm and pinched the boot with the spindle. The welds were acceptable but were far from quality that showed some time and effort.

Do you have the two aluminun spacers for the caliper? Washers may work if you don't.

In the new Dirt Wheels the photo of the Trinity banshee don't look right. The front right wheel looks like it is turned right but the left is straight. Maybe it is a optical illusion or the dude is about to bif it.

The bushing must be replaceable. I got one or two with a group of parts I got off ebay. They look brand new. I assumed they just pressed out and you lube and press the new one in. I'll check my extra parts and see if they have a part #. I would warn if the bushing is worn out that the shock probably is to.

A few heat cycles and take it easy the first hour you ride it. I'd go thru a doz. plugs running with the choke on. You just want the rings to seat right before you rip on it. I would error the jetting to the rich side til it was broke in because of the porting and run the same fuel mix.

I run 20-10 but I like playing not the drags. Some guys like the 22's for the added ground clearence for steap tree shots.

I don't know how elevation will effect comp. But I know at sea level a stock banshee should have @ 125 lbs. of compression new. I have info that a stock banshee has a 7.6-1 compression ratio but I don't know how that was figured on a two stroke. Good liuck on the argueing, just remember your friends

Should work fine.

Banshees come with cast pistons. Vitos makes a cast piston just like stock for $50 (cheapest)each or your next best bet is a set of Wiesco forged (stronger). Just remember, make sure you warm your motor plenty before romp'in on forged pistons or you'll cold seize.

It is normal to feel heat coming of the motor, it means it is disapating the heat. If you have run it where it is jetted and you haven't burned it up yet put a temp gauge on it and see where it is really running. In my opionion cool heads only increase the coolant capacity in the head which just takes the motor a little longer to overheat but once it is hot it just needs a break to cool down.

No, I don't think it is worth the money. It heard it robs HP and know it makes a lot of noise. I don't think it keeps the chain adjustment right thru the swingarm's stroke. I went to a aftermarket slider and rollers and am a whole lot more happy. Just my opinion and experience.

I can sell the same one with a carrier for a litte more.

Lonestar has some good info on their website. I don't like much toe in, no more than 1/8". I always set all of the adjustments at ride height (my weight on it). Good Luck, remember lots of patience.

I had experience with a new set of Wicked a-arms for a banshee. Finish wasn't the best and they didn't fit right. I learned to always buy from someone that will give a satisfaction warranty after that. Costly learning experience.

I've heard of heims breaking in MX. I haven't tried heims myself. I have had problems with the new style ball joints that require no spindle reaming that LSR and other a-arm manufactures use. They don't have enough length on the taper so there isn't enough clearance for the grease boot and you might have problems with the boots splitting or getting holes pinched in them. I am going to a 2+1 A-arms that have Raptor upper ball joints. I think it will be the best way to go in my opinion just more expensive.

Thanks for all your replies. I'm going to replace the carbs on this bike back to stock size bore. The carbs have been bored out to much (27.3mm). I concluded you can only bore a stock banshee carb to 27mm because A: the slide is 27mm at the smallest dia. and B: at 27mm you will barely get the motor to idle because the slide won't go down enough to close the throat. The carbs I have have a slight air gap on the side of the slide that is allowing air in with out pulling in fuel. I have to have a larger pilot to make up for this. I should try 28mm carbs and see if the motor needs them. Your real close "The Rebel" on your jetting. I was running 320 main ,needle #3 and #40 pilot and was a little rich on the pilot. I will probably be around a 320 main, needle #3 and #30 pilot with stock bore carbs.

I'm sorry maybe I wasn't that clear on this question. I have a ported motor with increased compression and advanced timing, how would the jetting be affected between stock carbs and bored stock carbs on a motor such as mine? I know a little how bigger carbs will affect 4 strokes and understand unless you increase a motors "volumetric efficiency" a bigger carb isn't needed. This probably is the same for 2-strokes. You will probably get poor throttle response, bog and hesitations if the carb is to large for the motors needs. If I only had my own dyno.

What does bored stock carbs do? How does it effect the power on a banshee to increase the size of the throat of the carb? How does it effect the jetting if thats all you change? What are the drawbacks? I've been working with the jetting on some bored out carbs and I just want to better understand them, so I'm looking for your opinions and input, Thanks

Check with Works about if they work. I ordered a set of works triple rates for my +2 a-arms and when I tried putting them on stock a-arms they were to long and bottomed out the ball joints. Works told me if you order them for stock a-arms they will be stock length with 4 1/2" of travel to allow 9" of wheel travel. But if you order them for +2 arms they will build them a 1/4" longer than stock shocks and only have 4" of travel to give 9" of wheel travel. The difference is for the added leverage of the +2 arms. You can probably get away with +2 shocks on stock arms but they might slightly bottom out the ball joints, but they will still be a improvment over stock shocks.

I bought the bike with all the mods, the seller bought it from the dealer new already built. I was given a list of the mods from the seller that the engine builder wrote. Rumor is the porter isn't around anymore and I can't read the builders signiture on the paper work I got with it. It was jetted #40 pilot, stock needle middle clip and 320 main as the paperwork said. It fouls plugs at that jetting. The #40 pilot doesn't sound right. I dropped the pilot to #30 and adjusted the airscrew and got a crisp throttle response. I then did a "plug chop" on the mains and needle (middle clip and 320). I got the 2mm on the main and slightly more on the needle. I ain't convinced on the plug chop method yet. It seems too lean by "feel" and smell. I'm going to go to a 330 main and going to watch the plugs. Which end of the country are you....the jetting in Cali is way different then the jettin in the East. I'm learning that now...

Just looking for some opinions on where I should be jetted (pilot, needle,main) with the following mods. Fastech level II trail port T-5 pipes and silencers dual K+Ns on carbs .035 shaved head 3 degree advanced timing stock bored carbs (I assume 28mm) I ride at sealevel between 50-75 degree tempertures

Wait til you add Works shocks. If you tell works to build you a set of shocks for +2 a-arms they will be 1/4" longer than stock shocks and will still only give you 9" of travel at the wheel. Aftermarket a-arms should have the shock mount the same distance from the frame but lower so the bike will sit at the same heigth and even lower if your going to put on works shocks.

Banshees don't have a thermostat to keep a constant temp so a banshee will run what you ride it at depending on outside conditions and how you ride. Just don't let it get over the boiling point of your coolant @ 220+ degrees.

I run one because it came with my bike. My wife just has a slider. I like the slider w/rollers better. It's quiet and dosn't rob power. When I lube the chains my axle is harder to turn and noisy.