No Limit Powersports

Is the bike ported and did you ever do a compression check, or squish test? You want to make sure that the motor can be set up for no gasket.

I would see if it cleans up and the check the water level to see if it is dropping if it is most likely a oring in the head or head gasket if stock.

Ditto sounds like the c clip came off the shaft and allowing it to push out the plug...

No problem man hope everything works out let me know if you need anything else

The link you posted was for a stock cylinder which is jetted differently than a cub. A 35mm a/s has a 4.5 slide in it and a standard 35mm has a 6.0 slide in it which is a leaner slide than a a/s so yes the jetting is a little different like i said but a i can change pipes and have to change jetting so everybike is different. We just got thru doing a 65x54 cub with 35 a/s on the dyno and it ended up with a cel needle and a 145 main but like i said start fat and work your way down... its alot easier to start fat and go lean then to start lean and rebuild...

Got a couple in stock give me a call 8773011700 Andy M&M

HUH, i have done alot of airstrikers and they are always pretty close to the standard pwk but its hard to say they are the leaner or fatter cause every bike is different. I just start fat and work my way down never start on the lean side of what i would think it needs.

I have never had one crack or fail whereas with the directdrive ones for which we are a dealer also i have had alot of leaks around the lens and outer ring before they started die casting the covers. The new die cast covers with the 12 bolt lens looks like a very nice piece but ive had really good luck with the modquad covers so no need to change. I am however a dealer for direct drive i just stock the moduad cover. Jeff carries the direct drive in stock!

The 68 bore short rod uses a 9768mo6800 and the long rod uses the 573 blaster piston and we have them in stock

Well M&M is going to make it with at least 4 drag bikes! Hope there is a good turnout

They are a modded stock cover done by modquad. They are top notch and the polish is awesome. The ring is expoxed in and we havent had any trouble to date. Andy

I would probably start with a cgl or cel needle and a 160 main is a good starting point and work your way down from there. Andy

We have the billet ones for $42.95 Exhaust Clamps

Other than a gasket if you need one (not always but a good idea) and oil it is everything you need to install. But i would highly recomend a clutch disengager with it so you dont risk welding the rod and arm together. The lock out will put alot more pressure on the plate at higher rpms so with the clutch pulled in and revving the motor you have a greater risk to welding them together. Clutch Disengager Our lock up kit price is 399 and then there is a 40 rebate for a good used cover

I sell tWo brands of repack either will work fine REPACK KITS

message box was full so any pm's were not recieved...still for sale

A 3 jaw puller is available at any of the local parts stores but certain ones with thick teeth will not work you will just have to look at them and see.

Just a dumb question but you are turning it left right? The flywheel is left hand threads. First try cleaning the threads and see if you can get it to start but if the threads are stripped out either a 3 jaw puller or take the standard puller center it up on the flywheel and weld it this will ruin you puller and flywheel but it will get it off at a last resort...

Almost all coolheads are notorious for doing that at some point or another. Just take the nut off and put a dab of silicon gasket maker on the bottom of the nut and the threads and reinstall the nut...problem fixed. Most of the new heads or at least the noss heads that i sell come with acorn nuts and copper washers to fix this problem.

If i had to guess if you went threw a bunch of water and it started missing then its not the TORS you probably got your stator wet. try pulling the cover off and see if the contact pads are rusted if they are thats whats happening. Just a thought but the tors are junk and should def be removed and at least unhooked.

No that squish is fine a little loose but it will be fine for a trail rig. I would go up to a 22c to get the compression down...its not stock because you said it was a 4 mill stroker so it will take a larger combustion area to make the same compression because now the piston has more area to make compression. Also a big factor is timing whats your set at with 160lbs i wouldnt go any higer than maybe 3* to be safe.

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Looks like to me its at maybe plus 1 or 2 cant hardly see the case halves split. No need to sand on anything just take the screws out and take it back out and line it up where u want it and put it back in... sweat. Andy M&M ATV

ttt

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