J-Madd

We're talking about the same 3 tiny copper strands, right? Will it still test good if that wire is broken? I guess maybe it's making enough contact to test good?? I don' t mind installing it to trouble shoot, but if it's gonna crap out on me under certain loads or rpms, I'll try to get it fixed right.

You don't have to run higher compression or timing; but you won't get the full benefit of running alky if you don't. Is the motor ported? Not much to be gained on a non-ported motor. It can give you about 7% more hp, so If you've only got 40 or 50, it ain't worth the headache for 3 hp. It does run much cooler than gas, though - that can be a benefit; but you use twice as much, so you won't get very many miles per tank.

Go to atvdragracers.com. It's pinned in the 2 stroke tech sub forum.

Has to ability to advance and retard timing based on rpms. HIgher timing is needed at lower rpms to extract max hp and tq. Lower timing is better at higher rpms to let the motor rev more without fighting itself. The stock box already does this, but you can program your own maps into the dyna,or run one of the 4 preset maps that advance the timiing over stock. If you run the dyna you may need to run higher octane gas, depending on compression.

You have to remove the clutch to get to the bearing plate that has to be removed. It seems (new to me) that some don't run that bearing retainer, therefore don't have to remove the clutch.

Yeah, the wire is kinda burnt. It looks like just 2 strands of copper instead of 3 are still intact. I've already epoxied it before reading this. I'm gonna a try it on my bone stock Banshee, but I can't risk it going out on a race bike. Not worth losing a race over.

Yes, it'll stretch just fine. I think I've ran them with no orings before. Anyone else done that, or had issues sans orings?

Yeah, if its way rich, you can run it all day long and it'll look like new. I've ran an entire race, including test and tune and never put any color on the plugs. Bike still ran good. Probably could've picked up a few hundredths leaning it down a little, though.

There is almost always room for improvement on the ports in the 392 Cub. The 421 and 465 are pretty good right out of the box, though (especially the 421.)

Still for sale. Delivery is no longer an option however. I already picked up the other chassis in Lousiana. Will consider trade for a complete 10 mil Cub engine with pipes and carbs. New Price: $2650.00. Radiator also included now. This is half price for what it cost to have this built, chromed, and powdercoated.

At the end of a decent pass 2 weekends ago the engine died when I pulled in the clutch. The stator had went bad and one set of wires would not test for resistance (0 ohms.) Well, I noticed the part on the face of the stator assembly where the wires are soldered and epoxied had broken loose a little. I wiggled that, now it tests fine. Can I strip away the epoxy and re-solder/epoxy this? Just inside the black line is where the piece is separated. The circle on the left is where the wire is exposed a tad. On another note, the motor quit at the end of the last pass of the entire race last weekend (still made a good pass, just like before). Come to find out the pickup coil came loose (different stator.)

90 - 95 hp well tuned on race gas. CPIs will hit the cylinders. Just use washers on the brackets to move them out a little.

Maybe its a seed bed conditioner??? I've always wondered what it really was,too. I did some more research. My linkhttp://www.tractorhouse.com/listingsdetail/detail.aspx?OHID=5751788

My link That's all I could find. There must be a more technical name for it.

No it's not necessary. As a matter of fact, without the emblem it'll think its a Honda and run slower, but last forever.....

Welcome to the HQ . You are on a dangerous path my friend. The addiction for more power cannot be cured.

Chariot sells Cubs??? Chariot ports cylinders?? News to me. I'd say Shearer's also.

15/41 or 15/40 should be fine, imo. YOu need some more tire (paddle and roll out).

Banshee suck in the snow. Maybe try some realtors.

That sounds about right. There is a formula that uses stroke and rod length that can convert from mm to degrees if you need it. But since you're actually using the degree wheel, you wouldn't need to work the formula.

I hate to admit that I agree; as long as they're gravity fed. My 10 mil Cub made about 5 more peak hp with pwks vs. Lectrons, but were on the ragged edge lean (with no room to richen them up any more without drilling them to 0.124", which ruins them for some motors.) Yeah, not having to remove the carbs or bowls to tune is what makes them great.

Push the clutch actuator (lever on the case) by hand until it stops. That's when it should line up with the arrow. It will never line up with zero tension due to the return spring on the case.

Step 1: Always unplug the TORS. Step 2: Make sure the choke tube is in place. Others listed above would be the next steps. If none of these fix it, check the pickup coil gap.

If you want to upgrade your clutch, go with a Magnum or PE billet basket and new clutch from Jeff @FAST. Stock inner and outer hub are fine if they aren't grooved. Straight cuts aren't worth the money unless you've maxed out every other thing on the motor. Hinson basket is definitely not worth it unless you need the extra plates for a very high hp motor. JMO.

On Ebay now.