J-Madd

Pm sent.

You've seen a blown 2-stroke? This has been discussed many times and the concensus has always been that too much power will be robbed from the crankshaft to net any gain with a blower. I've seen several turbo and turbo plus nitrous Banshees (both twin and tripple cylinder.) The ones that make it down the track scream. THose that don't........well they don't sound so good.

Pro Wedges are a little stiffer and do hook better, but if your basically stock (bolt on) they would be fine if you find a good deal on them. If I had to by new, I'd definitely go with the Pro Wedges though. You'll want to run them opposite of the directional arrow.

I bet the ball fell out of the tranny shaft. You're missing the clutch rod ball.

Well, i guess I just read over that t....in that case, the domes are waaaaayyyyyyyy off then and the crank/rod is probably correct. You may have domes cut for the extra stroke, but you have a near zero deckheight.

Sounds like 110 mm rods, or stock stroke crank. Somethin ain't right.

I'm tempted to buy that ...wish i knew if the nikasil was good..I may ask, but I doubt if he knows.

I have always heard not to run the modded shift star with overrides as well, but I have 1 or 2 that I bought like that and they work fine so far.

Yes run an 8 with gas.

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Strange as it is - even though the ignition coil has bare metal mounts, it does not have to be grounded by those. Whil e trouble shooting electrical problems, I have zip tied a coil to the frame, making no contact with those mounting points. But everything else you say, I agree 100%.

Just FYI, you can backload an override (and pull start) in 5th gear. It's not cut.

The 9 series is a "colder" plug. It moves heat from the tip of the plug better than the 8 series. It doesn't necessarily make the motor run cooler. The alky won't foul a plug as easy is one reason you can run the colder plug. The hotter plug is required on gas to keep the plug cleaned (burned) off to prevent fouling. That being said - some people do run 8 series with alky, and I happen to run a br10eix on my 10 mil Cub.

To clarify - the dump tubes are the tubes that the needle rests in. You have to drill those and the main jet. If yours are drilled, findout the largest index drill bit that will fit in the tube and main, then measure it with calipers to see what size it is. Note that sometimes the main is drilled smaller than the tube. That is ok; but if the tube is smaller than the main, you'll only flow as much as the tube allows.

Stator side or clutch side? Are you sure the carbs are sync'd?

A fresh motor will tend to run hotter for a while. It never hurts to re-torque the head.

Are you sure your current coil is bad? I wouldn't buy a brand new one to troubleshoot an ignition problem. As far as aftermarket; most run the nology coil, if not OEM. OEM is all I've ever ran.

I can tell you how one of my 421 Cubs was set up. 0.045" squish, 185 psi (20 cc domes), dumps drilled to 0.125", 60 pilots, egn needles. I also ran a different set of carbs that were drilled to 0.120" with some different needles (don't remember what they are.) Its funny that one my stock chassis, the 0.125" dumps worked fine, but when I went to a 50 lb lighter chassis - I had to turn the pjs all the way in and still no heat on the plugs. Another 421: 0.052" squish, 170 psi; 38 mm a/s PWKs, 0.118" dumps/mains. Another 421: 0.050" squish, 180 psi, 39 PWKs listed above. All 3 of these motors run about the same, even set up that different. I'm convinced that you can setup a 421 any way you want, and it'll perform pretty good. All of these run 4.0s with an average rider and 3.8s to 3.9s with a jockey. It's in the fine tuning/perfect setup that you get it to really fly (e.g. 3.7s).

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BANSHEE-BIG-BORE-CHROME-CPI-DRAG-PIPES-OOF-SHEARER-L-K-/220624091291?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item335e38789b

Ive got one and never used it. I don't think it fits my 39 pwks - was for some 35s. I don't see how it can sync the carbs at anything but idle (but I'm probably wrong); - my motors don't idle anyway. I need to watch that video, I guess and see what I'm missing. I sync 'em by eye, then I can tell if they're off by revving and it up and down for a few mins - then see if both pipes are the about the same temp.

You'll probably have to change domes to get the compression back down. As far as hearing detonation - sometimes you can, lots of times you can't. You don't want to wait to see if you hear it before correcting a problem, imo.

There is a notch in the case for the spring, and of course the pin at the top for the spring to wrap around. If those 2 are correct, then gear will follow. Note that there is a tab on the gear; I don't think it'll let you you install it wrong. It's most likely that you didn't preload the spring. You gotta take it around once, then hook it on the pin.

Maybe spin the carrier 180* so that if it does try to move the same direction, it'll try to tighten the chain instead of loosen it.

Sometime long, long ago, in a land far, far away, someone claimed that the richer oil mixture makes more hp on the dyno . I don't know for sure; and it hasn't helped protect my bearings any better - so I dunno . Also Mike - you'll need to run a dual feed pingel fuel petcock and be sure to remove the check valve in the gas cap and drill the vent out bigger.

RUn "9" series plugs (b9es, b9egv, etc) gapped at 0.018". Learn how to read alky plugs. Purge it with gas when done riding for the day. YOu can usually run a little more timing with alky. Maybe start with +8 degrees. Start with the powerjets all the way out and screw them in about 1/ 4 turn at at time until the motor runs clean throught the gears. It's usually still rich at that point, but very safe to run. You can get a little more hp out of it by going leaner, but it's usually not worth going past that safe point. You can run alky rich and still make good power. Oh...mix your methanol compatible oil oil (Benol, Super Techniplate, Redline) at 20:1.