J-Madd

Great transaction.

Yeah, the flat head bolt/screw should be oval shaped and acts like a cam as it rotates to move the shift claw up or down. If it is worn out, it may have lost its oval shap where the spring rides. Sometimes the spring is even worn out/grooved where it contacts the adjuster screw.

You could try turning in the air screws. You can also spray some carb cleaner on the filters, BUT there's no reason you shouldn't be able to get it to start in the cold on GAS. We have to use the carb cleaner trick with alky in the cold.

The opposite was true for mine on the dyno. Peak hp at about 9,000 rpms with BB and 9,600 rpms with SB. Just my experience on 1 particular motor.

I can barely decipher most of your posts. What washer are you talking about? What's an easy way to check the runout on a crank? I've NEVER checked one myself, j ust take builders word for it.

MIne were both OOF Shearers (drag pipes) out both sides. I ran back to back passes. 3.89@ 78-80 mph on both. MOtor was on alky, if that matters.

The small bore on anything bigger than a 10 mil Cub would probably hold too much heat. The BB should get rid of heat better; however I've ran both on my 10 mil Cub and didn't make any difference at the track. It ran leaner at part throttle with the BB pipes, so that probably negated any effect on the heat. On the dyno the SBs peaked about 400-600 rpm higher, but the max hp was about the same. THese results will vary depending on exhaust duration, of course. Mine is only about 192*. Neither pipe utilizes the potential hp of my engine.

That's what I was afraid of. I don't have the software or know how to make the drawing.

Anyone?

X2 on NOss. I emailed him Monday for some custom domes (not off the shelf) and I got them in today.

You're gonna most likely need new cylinders.

I have a 421 Cub (short rod) that I bought used that was ordered from Vito's and built with Vito's parts. NOt ported as far as I know (unless Vito's ported it.) It's running the Tawain made pistons. It runs low 3.9s high 3.8s all day long in 300 ft. On a stock chassis it runs mid 4.0s. No complaints from me.

I have 2 unported 421s and they've smoked bigger motors on the track at times. I now have one of them ported by the guy that has the fastest 0-400 in the world in 300 ft (or fastest cub of any configuration that I know of). He didn't port mine as radical as his, but I didn't ask him to either. I wanted more consistency than his configuration. I'm gonna run it and compare it against the best times gotten from the unported 421s. I'll keep ya posted (next spring.)

I put a used TZ bearing I had laying around on my newest 4 mil crank. I just assembled the cylinders in the cage and outer race and stuck it on the crankshaft. I'm looking at pics of TZ bearings and they show an inner race. WTF? Is there more than 1 style of TZ bearing or what?

Has anyone ever wondered how the rear vent could even work? If you look at the cases when they're apart, the crankcase/transmission area is sealed off from the vent. I wish I had a pic. I know the vent does work, but it just looks like it shouldn't.

Yep, Pro Wedges are better than 4-snows. The tread is more ridged and won't fold over as easy. The 4-snows are very soft.

I think FMF SSTs would be good for that.

I've got some FMF SSTs. $200 + shipping.

That's good to know what they're called (banjo fitting). I've never had luck looking for them either. NIce car.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Apple-iPad-Wi-Fi-3G-64GB-Empty-BOX-perfect-condition-/270677198663?pt=US_Tablets&hash=item3f059e4747

If you're not getting into the motor, you ain't ever gonna need a +12 swingarm. There are some bolt ons that will help, but I don't think you can even get 50hp with just bolt ons. As far as tire selection: what kind of racing surface?

Go way big and then come down if you need to. You dont want to run it like that very long or you'll be needing pistons. They may be pitted already.

I've got a clutch cover on my 16 mil Cheetah that has a Trinity Stage IV logo, and I didn't get that motor lined out all year. Damn, I may try to grind the logo off. Good call.

Call me weird, but I could watch stuff like that all day long.

That's a great deal for a BRAND new motor. Wouldn't be too bad for a motor that "just has 3 passes since rebuit. " I just bought another 10 mil Cub that "only had dyno time" for about that same price. And it wasn't polished and the side covers were scuffed up a bit. This won't last long.