J-Madd

When we used to race like that, you just basically kept going until it stopped pulling. Whoever was ahead then was the winner. NO skill involved in that way. Hole shot didn't matter much; just seeing which bike was the fastest (not necessarily quickest.) That sounds like what he is doing also.

At what rpm does it limit? I've seen them rev out the 11,000+ rpms on the dyno. I call bs on the rev limiter (unless your talking specifically about the parking brake limiter.) 252 - did you run resistor plugs with that CDI (BR8..)? I know with the Dyna FS you have to run resistors or it will do exactly as you describe.

[ Swap carbs left to right and see if the problem follows the carb.

15t should be fine for that. Don't go to a 16t on a non ported motor, though. It takes it a long long way to top out (if it even will.)

I never miss the October race if I can help it. This will be my third (maybe 4th) year, I think. It's always 65-75 degrees during the day, and freeze your balls off 35 degrees at night. Weird.

Your just missing the big races there. They have 2 a year, and I promise they run past midnight. We got finished about 4:00 a.m. at the May (or was it June?) race. Another big race there in October. :

Assuming that it'll rev out to 9000 rpms (I really don't know what PC pipes will rev to) top speed is around 74 mph. My guess for hp is 43 - 48. YOu should beat a stock 700R.

Did you ever get this figured out? What do you mean by "stock" needle? Exactly what needles are you running. That makes a huge difference.

Well. I can make the carbs fit, it just seems like the smaller intake is a "bottleneck." The carb i.d. is a little bigger than the smallest part of the intake.

I have some pumper 39 pwks (alky). I'll have to check to see how much $$ I have in them. I only ran them a couple of times.

-2 swinger and drag racing shouldn't be in the same paragraph. That sounds like a violent ride. As mentioned; a drag axle will help a lot with weight (both static and rotating.) You could also ditch the radiator if your running alky, though it doesn't sound like you are. Drag cut the wheels, run spindle mount front wheels (ditch the front brake),drag a-arms, drag steering stem, smaller fuel tank, cut all tabs and brackets off that aren';t needed. Lots of stuff can be cut off. Do a search - there are some pics out there.

Maybe 13 or 14 paddle extremes, 72 roll out if full drag ported. If not, Iess paddle obviously.

Not sayin it's right, but I always just ran them straight out of the box on gas.

I've read that somewhere as well. Some claim of increased hp (though I doubt it.) I just know that I don't even pay attention to which wire goes where, and it still runs the same. If someone does know if it actually makes a difference, I'd be interested to know. I've never made back to back dyno pulls, etc; after swapping the location of the black and orange wire.

Orange and black wires don't matter either.

Anything liquid that gets on top of the motor (water, gas, alky, beer, whiskey, piss) will always run down those studs making it look like that it is leaking there. I assure you 100% that it is not coming from that stud.

Stock primary gears are helical cut. They mesh at an angle. They are quieter than the straight cuts. Straight cuts can make an unwanted whining sound that is undesirable to the mfg (Yamaha). No need for straight cuts on most motors - I'd say up to maybe 120 hp or so; but they don't hurt anything. The straight cuts help reduce side load on the crank. As helical gears mesh, they pull on the crank (or maybe push?) This robs a tad bit of hp (some say 2 - 4 hp) and is undesirable to the crank and probably crank bearings. Not worth the money unless you've already done every other mod possible to the motor, imo.

Yeah, I agree 100% with all of that. I might add that I believe the slingshot (at least the vito's) is heavier than the direct drive+stock pressure plate/outer hub, though I haven't weighed them.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

I was referring to the very end of the stinger being the same on my pipes, but yeah - I know the BBs are bigger in places than SBs and do get rid of heat better.

If you choose CPI, you can't go wrong with the unstamped big bore, imo. As far as Shearer's - I had the impression there was a "new style" small bore (some may call it the medium bore) ; but that is not true. I don't know where or how that rumor got started. Matt Shearer said all his stamped SB pipes are the same. It was only the old hand coned ones that were different, and that was several years ago. As far as stinger i.d.; I have SB/SF, BB/BF and BB/SF and the stinger i.d. is the same on all. Go figure

Like the title says. Thanks.

Ahh. I see now. Just saw the jet size and figured stock mikunis.

You still have stock carbs? Buy some 35 mm or 39 mm pwks already set up for alcohol - not sure I'd mess with stock carbs for alky.

I hope the hell you have a cage in that beast!! Here's a crappy pic of mine. Haven't seen one of these in this thread yet, so here ya go.