J-Madd

I've thought of that, but I heard it doesn't last very long. Any opinions?

Check your coil wires. The red and black wires behind the right pipe. Mine have come off a couple times. Also, for my TORS removal (like that when I bought it) someone cut some wires, then twisted them together. It won't fire if those wires come apart...just something to look for. Firing probs suck!!!

Where can I find it at magicracing? I've looked for it. My "local" dealership is 25 miles away. That will be my last resort if I can't get it anywhere else.

I need some packing for my silencers. I don't think the local stealership has any. (apologize if this is in the wrong forum) Thanks.

I don't have any idea. I'm running what the factory put in my PWKs. I gave them my mods, and they jetted them. Plugs have always been tan. I still haven't put the clamp-ons on. On another note, the cool head rocks!! And 100LL rocks. I like to sit in my garage and let it idle for the smell. The plugs are more of a gray color now--is that common with 100LL? It also sounds like its hitting a rev limiter in 1st and 2nd only. It didn't do this the first few times I rode it, but it does now. Is there still a rev limiter with TORS unplugged? Could this be pinging? It runs great if I shift before it starts cutting out.

PWK 30mm is the largest that will fit stock boots. I struggled with mine for about an hour. Don't ever take the boots back off once you get them on!

I had a similar problem, except it sputtered on low end all the time. I got fed up and bought new PWK 30mm, jetted at the factory for my shee. Still sputtered on bottom. I adjusted the air screw leaner and put my needle at the leanest position It had previously been at the next to leanest pos. It screamed after that. When I still had stock carbs, I also put the stock pilot back in (going down from the #30 I had in it). It didn't work. You'll get much better advice than this, but just my 0.02.

2,706,000 Also points taken away for drinking, I'm sure.

A buddy ruined his axle carrier getting the old bearings out. He bought an '87 axle carrier, but it's much bigger than his 2000 axle and new axle bearings. PM me if you have one. Thanks

I need a stock axle carrier with or without bearings. WILL BUY immediately! Thanks

Broken thumb. Cruising slow through a woods trail after having about a 6 pack, wasn't really drunk, and wasn't going fast at all. My front tire caught the bark of a tiny, but strong, tree and yanked the handlebars to the left and stopped me instantly. The left handgrip came toward me and pulled my thumb back. Not Drink and ride.

dlnoss said 20 cc is the smallest he'd run with 100 octane av gas

I'm going from K&N/no lid to dual K&Ns. Assuming my jetting is perfect now, what adjusments do I need to make. (I'm sure a cool head w/20 cc domes won't affect jetting..but I'm gonna run 100 octane AV Gas)

I have a 16 and stock rear on mine and a 17 on hand. I will say the 16 pulls at least 90mph, but it takes a while to get there. 5th gear is like the old 6th gear. All of the lower gears (1-4) pull harder, b/c the motor is strong enough it doesn't "notice" the gears are higher. I'm not sure mine could pull a 17. Maybe after I get a cool head w/domes.

Thanks, I'll order a new bolt and then beat the F&^% out of the old one. Why doesn't the Clymer's address this? It just says "remove the bolt"----no shit.

I've got the bearings and seals..but where can I get a new bolt and nut? I've I had a new bolt I'd just grab my sledge and beat the piss out of it even more.

Any tips on how to get the swingarm bolt out? I've got the nut off and beat the sh%& out of it with a rubber hammer. It hasn't budged. I've already taken the suspension linkage off, etc. When I replaced my a-arm bushings, I had to use a regular hammer and ruined the threads..but I cut off the bad threads with a hacksaw. I really don't want to do this again. Please help !!!!!!!!!!!

Banshee~ ATV 2 is on the way...should have it by end of week.

Throw the rubbers in the trash. BUT don't forget to line up the arrow on the cluth rod on the crankcase up with the arrow on the crankcase (see your Clymer's manual). Barnett's instructions don't remind you of this. I burned a Barnett up in about 2 weeks b/c I didn't line the marks up...and I even had the manual, but just didn't look at it. I ordered a Toomey clutch (just in case it was the Barnett that was the prob) Put it in and lined 'em up and had no problems. I would caution using the extra stiff springs unless you can handle pulling a clutch lever that is 20 times harder to pull in. I put the stiff springs in mine and my buds can barely ride it; I just got used to it, so I don't even notice. (The Toomey clutch instructions were MUCH better than barnett and pointed out the importance of lining up the arrows. I don't think the clutch is any better..I just installed the Barnett wrong.) Good Luck

banshdog, will those fit pwk 30mm carbs????? I'm running the stock airbox boots now but they were a m-fer to get on. Let me know.

I tightened mine with a ratchet by hand, then hit it with a hammer............been riding like a maniac and it hasn't popped off.....

I also want some K&Ns with outerwears..if I don't get some off e-bay.

I want a cool head with some domes. Can trade 12'' MTX subwoofer (retail about 150.00) in Q-logic box (about 100.00) and 250 or 300 watt MTX amp (about 2 or 300.00 retail). Or TIger Woods 2004 for PS2 (still in shrink wrap), James Bond (last two releases). ATV offroad 2, Vice City, True Crime..I have probable have some others. Or I can always pay with cash....just have some stuff laying around taking up space I thought someone might want.