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Everything posted by J-Madd
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To sync the carbs, you may have to tighten/loosen each individual cable at the carb top (not the big flat idle adjustment screw). Put the needle clip in the middle. It sounds like your way lean on the needles to me. Your mains don't have anything to do with your problem right now, and stock pilots are fine.
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Do you mean the skirt breaks off of the piston? Sounds like excessive ring clearance. If the ring is still ok, check the ring gap to see if it is in spec.
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Well, I ran about 1 tenth of a second better with OOFs, but I also advanced the timing from +5 to +9, and got a JJ&A axle; so I doubt the pipes made that much of a difference.
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I run 165 mains, 45 (or maybe 48) pilots, and needle (not sure which one) in the middle in 35 mm PWKs in my stock stroke Cub. elev:300 ft, temp: 90. It's a little rich on the needle or mains, and perfect on the pilots. Don't know if jets would be similar for 33 mm carbs or not.
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A friend of mine had a Vitos Fat Bastard pipe for his Blaster, and some of the chrome chipped off within a week. I'd probably stay away from Vitos also.
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Yeah........I think he is running dual carbs, because he is running an airbox. When he said K&N clamp on (not clamp ons), I inferred that he had one carb, but I re-read, and I think I am wrong.
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If the tail light is out too, don't forget about the voltage regulator...........the blue wire leading to the silver box by the CDI may be unplugged. It happens, and will blow the bulbs if unplugged.
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I'd say ditch the single carb set up, or go bigger. 35 PWK is what you'd run on a bone stock cylinder.
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Thanks!! :beer:
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Check to choke tube and unplug the TORS first.
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Working on a YZ80 for a friend with a f'ed up lower rod bearing. Can the bearing be replaced? If so, can any machine shop replace it or should I send it to one with experience with these. Thanks.
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I'm gonna use the OOFs for drag racing, and IFs if I happen to go riding. Thanks for all of the info. I'll let everyone know how they turn out.
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I've searched and read most all of the Drag Pipe posts and got the concensus that your motor has to be set up right for an out of frame pipe. I would assume that I would have nothing to lose by going to an out of frame pipe on my 421 Cub. I just bought some Shearer small bore OOF w/out silencers, and currently have shearer SB inframes.
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The class basically is bolt on class. Pipes, filter, timing plate,reeds. I had to draw a line somewhere in regards to porting or modifying the cylinders. The next class up for Banshee would be the modified 2 stroke, where ported 350s could run, then the open 2 stroke class, where strokers and/or big bores would have to run. So basically, your either a bolt on Banshee, or not. There is a huge gap there, I know; but once you've gone past bolt-on, you better have went all the way. Here is my feared scenario.... Bike #1: Bone stock/T5s,K&N, +5 timing,reeds. Bike #2 T5s, cool head w/19cc domes,reeds, K&N, +5 timing, race gas. Bike #2 would be screwed in the class he has to run in, but has too many mods to run in the same class as Bike #1. .....However, the classes aren't set in stone. I'm gonna see what all shows up. If I've got a lot of Banshees that have a tad more than bolt-ons, and they all agree to run in the same class, I'll create one.
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Alright........here's what I've come up with. The "Stock" Banshee Class must run a stock head/stock compression, and cylinders have to be untouched (other than routine boring/honing)....no polishing intakes or exhaust ports at all. I think I'll allow cool heads as long as they have stock domes, and just check compression (<130 psi) if it is in question. Does that sound feasible? In the 450 - 700 4 stroke bolt on class, I thought about allowing aftermarket cams, but I've been told that Craptors and DS650s have to go to aftermarket pistons to change cams, which would automatically take them out of the bolt on class. Only the 450s would benefit from that, so I'm kind of stuck there.........not sure what to do with the Honda HRC cam either......... Also, there is a typo in the utility class. It should be 651 cc and up, not 651-700cc. Guardrail and straw bails are on the way; and were getting the track real close to 800 ft, I think. It's supposed to be finished this week. Thanks, and I hope to see some of you there, Jerid
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i need help pricing my shee for the ebay or paper!
J-Madd replied to bentvalve's topic in Banshee Repairs and Mods
In my area (not speaking for everywhere, of course) I've seen good piped Banshees go for less than $1500, and one with A-arms, shocks, and Gorr MX port go for $3000 w/title. The title doesn't add a lot of value unless the buyer is financing or is afraid it is stolen, I guess. I wish the best of luck to you, and hope other's opinions on prices are higher than mine, but it really seems to be a buyer's market, and most people don't appreciate the time and money you actually have tied up in it. -
Stock needle in stock position? You may bump the main up and raise the needle clip to fine tune. We usually leave the needle stock and work on the main, but I have leaned the needle out a little before. You'll definitely know if it's too lean (the needle). It'll surge and then run like crap through 1/4 to 1/2 throttle.
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i need help pricing my shee for the ebay or paper!
J-Madd replied to bentvalve's topic in Banshee Repairs and Mods
That sucks. Your gonna take a beatin' on in. I'd keep it and let it collect dust before I'd sell it. $4000.00 at the most IMO, if that. -
I've ran no smaller than 340's with your set up (besides 19 cc domes, not 18), temp, and elevation. A little rich, but it ripped. I'd definately do a plug chop. 310s seem lean at any temp with pods and T5s at sea level. 30 pilot is rich. We run stock pilots with T5s, 27.5 with FMFs. Just have to choke it a little with the T5s.
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I've put CPIS on a stock motor just for the hell of it, and they pull just a little harder on top, compared to Toomey's but lack on a lot on the midrange and bottom end of the T5s (though T5s are not known for bottom end, they're still better than CPIs, especially on a stock motor). I've got a set of FMF SSTs that a guy traded me for my T5s that I used to have.........I'd sell them pretty cheap, they've been setting in my shop for months. MUCH better than stock, but you won't want them if you get an aggressive port job later. PM me if interested.
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I"d assume it was heavily ported running 38s. Where your WOT in 6th or what before it locked up. My 2 lock up experiences...............I was WOT in 6th and let out just to be letting out, so the carbs could fill back up. Little did I know that causes it to lean out when you have it pinned for a little bit, let out for a second and get right back to WOT. My shit locked up when I went back on the gas after letting out. Have you taken the stator cover off? The flywheel and/or stator could have come loose and caused it also...........just a remote (and cheaper) possibility, but unlikely.
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What were you doing when it locked up? What size carbs and what jets? What gas/oil ratio? I've had top ends lockup and I've seen bottom ends lock up. You'll ultimately have to pull the jugs off to tell, but it's more common for top ends to lean out and lock up, IMO.
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It shouldn't matter at all on either sprocket if they're just like others. Never had primary drive sprockets, though.
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I don't want anyone to think I set up the classes for anyone's advantage,especially mine. I have a 392 and 421 Cub, and I have to run them in the same class. I'm sure as hell not gonna run anywhere near Bigboybanshee's time in that class. I talked to Jeff Ross (some of you probably know who he is) about the classes for about 30 minutes on the phone about the classes at places he races, and what I have listed is basically what he said. I asked about boring/pistons for the Banshee class and he said it was allowed to have bored cylinders and stock replacement pistons b/c almost everyone has rebuilt their Banshee at 1 time or another (who puts stock pistons back in.) I don't think pistons or boring matter that much in general. We also polished the exhaust port (not the transfers or intakes whatsoever) and I'm getting some bitchin' about that. Hell, I wonder if he ran with a plug wire off if they'd still complain!!j/k. I want the race to be fair. They still have a chance for 2nd place.....maybe 1st if he red lights or misses a gear. BTW he has a wheelie bar, too; which I'm allowing in every class, so he could probably run pretty good in the Open 2-stroke class. I will use the responses to this to influence my decision on whether or not to change the class. I don't want it to be based solely on my own opinions. Please respond or send a PM with opinions on this or any other aspect or questions regarding the event. Criticism is welcome. I won't take it personal............all this shit is new to me!! Thanks

