Trick2stroke

I would think the FASST FLEX bars would give and help reduce some the sudden impact that could bend the stem ontop of reducing arm pump and whatnot. If I ever decide to get some new bars those are on the top of my list, unless after the Scotts stabalizer I don't feel they're nessicary.

I just thread the bolt all the way down on the end of the axle with the hub on, then I put the socket over the nut and knock the shit out of it with a sledge hammer 'till she submits. How bad is it bent? You may have to cut it off.

Hmm, I really appreciate the advice. I guess I'll have to just buy some 21cc domes for now untill I can find a place to pick up some higher octane fuel. Thank you guys so much, I'm glad I found out before I potentially fucked something up. :shoothead:

Second one, the flames look cheesy behind the FAST logo on the first one imo. I'll second the diffrent colors idea, red, black, white, and gray would be a pretty good selection. I'd probably buy a few when I send some more business your way.

I'm getting alittle worried lol I don't have a compression tester at the moment so I don't know my exact compression, but according to Noss' website with my 20cc domes and being almost right at sea level I should be pushing 170 and my timing is advanced +3 or 4 deg. right now. I'm not real sure where to get race or av gas in my area and also don't know how much it's going to cost me. If it turns out I have to run race gas or 50/50 with this set up I might aswell go all out with some 18 or 17 cc domes and bump her up to 200+, get my moneys worth lol.

That's all I ever hear. "they're unreliable and suck for anything other then wide open and drags" Shit, I was beating out some c class riders on the track with mx'ed out 400's, 450's, 500's, and 660/700's on a STOCK suspension banshee and have never had trouble keeping up with anyone in the trails as of yet. I just can't wait till I've really got this thing modded. I love being the underdog, almost anyone will underestimate a banshee on the track.

MetricMaster Mullet Man WinchedWolvy 400ccStroker_shee All great buyers, would do business again with any one of them!

Look like stock ported cylinders to me, when a big name company ports your jugs they'll usually scribe their name into the side.

Is the product in question similar to the ones Jeff sells? http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=157 His are listed at only like 40 bucks so I could warrent spending that much for the type of improvement in the description, but I see where firehead was saying with the proper intake it may not do jack shit even still?

Add that to the list of next's then. Thanks for the info. :biggrin:

I was under the impression that 170+ was race gas territory?

soak it with wd 40, then a few good whacks should take care of it.

I've been wanting one of these set ups. The only reservation I had, was I hear it would really restrict the motor with porting and it was borderline starving the motors with just an exaust. I've heard you loose your top end, which I wouldn't want to loose entirely but the lessened throttle pull, low/mid, and ease of only having one carb to deal with just is so appealing.. What is you guys insight who have this set up, as far as the high rpm pulling power for straits goes? Does it still rev out decently?

The slides are in correctly, the tops of the carbs are removed. I never drilled or tapped for an idle adjustment screw though, I was just using the threaded adjustment on the thumb throttle. :: It seemed to work fine before I changed the needle position and started having slide problems. I must just be jetting illiterate, I always seem to have trouble with it.

They should work fine for trails, they would be too soft for mx though I'm sure. Rest assured they'll perform leaps and bounds over the stockers. :yes:

The TORS is removed, the needle was on the 3'rd clip, choke tube is in place, everything seems to be in order. I've gone as low as 240 on the mains, put the air box lid back on, and it runs seemingly good now ( seemed to be rich even before the swap with the fmf's and 260's). Still seems to studder about half throttle just before I get into the PB. I've yet to do a plug chop though to confirm any of my adjustments. The last time I changed the needle to postition to see if I could clear up the studder (was going to try it on the 4'th clip from the bottom) the slides don't seem to be getting stuck but it just revs wide open when I start it up. I gave up on it for today. I got tired of fucking with it. I have a short temper and didn't want to break something. I'll take the carbs off to be sure the slide isn't sticking somewhere tomorrow sometime.

Tell him to ship it USPS, it shouldn't be anywhere near that much. Even still, like Mulletman said, dude didn't specify that shipping would be more so obviously he was too lazy to get a quote and now he needs to grow a set and take a hit on his sale for being a dumbshit. You said it's only a one day delivery time, how far is he from you? If it's not too far I'd ask for whatever the flat rate shipping fee was back and tell him you'll pick them up yourself.

Why does everyone seem to be so "anti oversized rad". Sure it's not something that's absolutely required and probably shouldn't be first on anyones list. But hey, the cooler you can keep the bike in hot riding conditions the better. You can keep a bike too cool, but it's going to have to be pretty cold along with the oversized rad and impeller for it to ever cold sieze. It's not unusual for it to get in the 100's down here in Texas over the summer and I'm not going to let something like that keep me from riding/racing. So far I've had no problems with a fully stock cooling system, but I haven't been in hot enough weather or a stressfull enough situation for a long enough time on the engine for it to do so.

I didn't think the extra cost would offset the commision I would recieve.

I'm almost directly at sea level (something like 47 feet above), the temp is around 70-85 right now and the air box lid is removed, I was surprised to see 260's in it actually, being that it's running so rich. I'm going to pick up some 230's, 40's, and 50's today and work my way down. Thanks for the reference BBB, anyone else have any idea as to what needle/range of needle to use? (I have no idea what the diffrent sizes or order of sizes for the needle are.)

I switched out my Fatties for some PT mids recently, and it seemed to run ok after the swap ( I had planned to rejet but not right away since it seemed to run fine although alittle rich) , but then the weather warmed up a good 20-30 degree's and now it sputters out and won't accelerate then fouls the plugs. I'm running 260 mains (unsure of the needle at this point, the dickhead who owned it before me striped the screws in the slide out), air screw 1 1/4 turn from seated, and what I'm guessing is the stock pilot, I haven't checked. My question is, if anyone has experimented with jetting on the PT mids, what needle and pilot did you have the most success with? I figured I'd go down a size at a time on the main till I get it cleared up but was curious to see if anyone had some insight on the needle and pilot sizes. Thanks.

is the middle rod suppost to be a dick?

I can't really see what your problem is. Take pics with the spindles strait out with the ball joint held up to them so we can see the problem with getting them to mount, again I can't tell much from those pics. Mabye it's just me.

The way it was described in the auction it seemed as if you could adjust on the fly. As your thumb got tired you could swap over to the twist. The transition would be alittle odd I'm sure to some one used to one or the other. If I had the extra cash I'd definately pick one up. It's not that high on my priorities list though, as far as my next mods go.

You're more moody then woman going threw menopause. Get a grip bud, you're dilusional.