slowpokebanshee

I am installing a 6" over swingarm w/ stock carrier and stock gearing, how many link chain do I need? and where can I get a new rear shock spring?

so I am still not convinced which carb is right for me...as of now, I guess I will get the 35mm and if the time comes for bigger I will E-bay the 35 in favor of 38.....but I do want to try a single carb, thanks for all the input......

very well made product, looks nice, fairly straight forward install, maybe an hour? but to be quite honest, I don't use it for anything other than a clock, can't use it while riding, hard to read, or I forget it's there, but after you get back to camp you can push one of the buttons and see your max speed/avg speed for the day....kinda' cool, probably does a lot of other stuff too, but I like the clock, and it looks nice, and a lot of attention too, people don't know what it is GPS? palystation or what....get the nice billet mount and matching bars too, they look great together

easy way to check for sure is get a glass bottle (empty corona bottle works well) and take a sample from your drum, let it sit over night, if there is water in your sample, you will be able to tell by looking at it, it will have seperated, and yes it will be on the bottom.....good luck

let me ask this? what would be a good motor to build around a 38mm 2:1 carb setup? for dunes/drags?

wd-40....and a cloth, remember, if you wouldn't scrub your balls with it, it will probably scratch the paint.

you add any "snake oil" fuel additives etc. to your fuel, I have had a lot of "odd" colored spots from various brands of fuel additives, cleaners, octane boosters, antifreeze, Fuel injector cleaners etc.I wouldn't worry though

dude, counter shaft sprockets are like coasters....you got a bunch of them but you don't use em' all all of the time, and you can always set your beer on one your not using.....okay that was dumb, but they are cheap, and relatively esy to change out...I have 12, 13, 14, 15 fronts, and 37, 41, 44, rears, and all this fooling around with the changing sands at Glamis, super dry to wet a year ago, I am now back to 14-41 stock gearing, that it likes the best....b ut maybe I will need to change come Halloween, it's not bad to keep a couple different sizes in your tool box.

that's all I do is dunes/drags....don't even own knobby tires....would 38 be too much? what if I go w/stroker later on etc.

hey I wanna upgrade the springs in my clutch, it is stock, as is the basket, I don't mind a stiff clutch pull so long as my clutch isn't slipping....what are the best springs out there? I am considering Barnett, any opinions?

it's an adjustable stator plate, not a new woodruff key....and what about the advantage of fuel consumption, I have talked to people with the single carb, and they don't use half the fuel as mine, my uncle has a single carb with stock tank, and I have a desert tank with stock carbs....and we refuel at the same time, ....understandably riding style plays a big part, but also single carb setup w/intake filter etc, is like 500 bucks how much for 34's or 35's w/intake filters etc.?

hey, ride at 5000 feet once every now and then, and with similar mods, clamp on filters, milled head, advanced timing (8 degrees)and pipes, I run 260 mains, and stock pilots, 50:1 pre-mix......perfect, maybe even a little rich.......I don't even run 300 mains at Glamis (sea-level) remember lean is mean......and rich.....well you'll never have an excuse to tear into your top end at least....

what "single" carb should I get......if I go duals I will get 35 pwk's like my brother...his rips....

my cylinders are being ported right now, "dune/drag" sea-level at Glamis, t-5 pipes, k&n clamp on filters, head milled .030, lightened flywheel, +8 timing advance,14-41 gearing would the 38 be too much, or okay and good for future mods, aka cubs? 4mm stroker? my brother has same port same mods, and dual 35 pwk's.....I like the fuel efficiency of the single, and ease of jetting...

been there done that....best for the buck add wheel spacers front and rear, huge difference, 1/2 the price. works shocks are nice, no complaints, but when I made the bike wider my wife became a much better rider.....I built the hell out of that Warrior, so if you have any warrior questions just ask, I have since got rid of it in favor of a suzook 400 (for her) I still have the Banshee....The warrior I went Hi-Comp piston, big cam, full pipe (fmf powerbomb and silencer) K&N ditch the airboxlid barnett clutch springsworks front shocks, wheel spacers front and rear, PIAA lights....up two teeth in front the mods that mattered: wheel spacers clutch springs cs sprocket changes six-pack rack \ pipe made it loud rest of mods barely noticeable.

fourth set of skat-traks here, due to wear, not peeling, jkust rode sand highway too much chunked the paddles over time, all the ones I see peeled, are from guys running too much air pressure ......

lube it every season and it will be fine, I'm on my third season right now, no problems

welll what's the latest? dealership handle it? or what?

I doubt it would cause a back fire with bad plugs, mis-fire yes, backfire, doubtful, and in this day and age of platinum, double platinum, triple platinum, iridium, etc. plugs.....I doubt that was a problem also, plug wires/ignition cables injector etc. would also cause a misfire but that would set a p0300 (p0301,p0302,p0303,p0304,...p0312etc.) we are addressing a low voltage o2 sensor code if I am not mistaken, why did we change plugs?

well, wha tdid they find?

finally added a drain plug....and then they took it away....same with the rear diff, had a drain plug for a few years, and I think '03 stopped...no more fuel filters either ('cept Dura max) in 05 and up silverados....and those neat cabin/A/C filters? they are gone starting in 03' , how about if your remote is dead and you want to unlock the passenger door from the out side? can't they took away the lock cylinder too. and what if you break down at night and pop the hood to scratch your head....no under hood light any more...... funny thing thay are taking away more and more features, and they keep getting more expensive.and less reliable? just rantin'

I apoligize for the rambling on, and sounding like the all knowing, but I hate seeing people taken advantage of, I have worked as a technician at various General Motors Dealerships for the past ten years, and get some cars/trucks whatever that have been to Pep-Boys, Midas, Jiffy lube etc. and spent thousands of dollars on parts only for them to say "take it to the dealer" and we find a wiring problem, blown fuse etc. but hey the Dealerships are a rip off right?

any chance that taking the pan off the tranny you might have "forced" it going back on or off, to get around the cross member etc.? I have seen a few do it your selfers do this and break one of the shift solenoids, and cause this concern.....also when you replaced the filter there are two different ones, one for a deep pan and one for shallow. .....

hey pal with the low voltage o2 sensor code....let me explain how an o2 sensor works...briefly: it measures the amount of oxygen in the exhaust sytem and translates this to the computer via voltage signals......ranging from 999mv-001mv or .999V-.001V above .500 is rich and below is lean (fuel mixture) normally this voltage is continuously oscillating as the computer is always fine tuning the engine for fuel economy. if the voltage stays below .500v for a pre-determined amount of time the light will come on and set a code for low voltage, and the same if rich will set high voltage...so chances are your o2 Sensors are performing as designed, and maybe you actually have a vacuum leak, restricted fuel filter, weak fuel pump etc......may want to take it to someone that knows what they are doing.....don't buy any more o2 sensors, I can only guess it is not a dealership you took your car to...I also suppose they charged you "Diagnosis"?

still have them?