slowpokebanshee

holeshot xct 23" front and 22" rear, down one on the front sprocket....(13) awesome setup no flats yet, but kinda pricey....

how about pilot jets? or needle position...air screws? anyone? also I am now running redline 50:1

I have heard from a few people, that you can buy high temp paint from aut parts store, and paint the inside of the head pipe, to keep it from "bluing" as much, also I have heard some people, like to rub vegetable oil on the inside of the head pipe, prior to installation, to do the same thing,

first thing to do is verify your bike having a heat issue. gauge etc. also understand how the cooling system operates, the radiator does not cool the motor...it removes heat from the motor....so if you feel heat, that means it is leaving the motor right?

I used to ride a GSXR 750 (before being hit by a car) and it had "RAM-AIR" but I remember reading a test report in cycle world or one of the other magazines, about ram air, compared on the four big bikes (honda, Yamaha, etc.) and none of them created anymore HP until well into triple digits.....which is good for super bikes, but not banshees, I agree with an earlier post, you will see more benefit from ditching your air box lid, or going to a turbo.....bigger carbs, pipes, boost bottle (ha-ha) porting etc.....

get some water wetter from redline....it runs hot stock, and otherwise. ditch the snorkel on the airbox run 32:1 or 40:1 not 20:1 or 24:1what ever the manual calls for. depending on where you are (elevation etc.) properly jet the carbs chances are you are rich.... afterb that do like the rest of us, and pull out your check book

my theory being more fuel will run cooler, I don't really run it too hard mostly duning, and a few runs up the "hill" but mostly low rpm lugging around the dunes...(waiting for Suzukis, and Hondas)

thinking about going 60:1 anyone have any experience? the plugs look like I have lots of oil at 50:1....

redline 50:1 no problems yet

I agree , just label your cans or put the mixed cans in a different area of camp, or something, as far as running mixed fuel in your tank? should not be a problem, as mentioned before, gas/fuel is petroleum based,and if you do the math adding five gallons of say 50:1 to your truck tank that has already say 20 gallons, would now make the ratio something like 200:1/250:1 whatever, which is fairly insignifigant...will not harm sensors etc. I am A mechanic at a Chevy dealership in So. Cal, and have seens just about everything you can see, put in gas tanks, one time an angry ex-girlfriend dumped about five gallons of orange soda in his tank...ran like shit for a while till it was dilluted enough. but still did not harm anything. personally I think it is a good thing, every now and again for some extra lube in the top-end of your truck just my three cents. P.S. just don't get it in those diesels.....

I used yamalube when I bought the bike maybe two or three quarts to break in the top end, after that I switched to Redline synthetic, 50:1 87 octane. I don't feel it is the best oil on the market nor the worst, but I do like the properties, I run it in my Banshee(50:1) my 88 CR 500(50:1) my 2003 Yamaha Zuma (scooter w/oil injection) and my lt 50 (also injection) I even occasionally run it in my wifes bike (yamaha Warrior) no fouled plugs, but very convenient,to be able to use in pre-mix or autolube/injection. anyone else use redline? higher or lower ratios?

run the eight paddles, my banshee is all stock, except for the fourty gallon fuel cell (clarke gas tank) I run the smooth skat-trak front tires 21x7x10 on .125 wheels with 20x10x10 haulers with ten scoops .125 wheels the front tires look great, and are nice to sit on when you stop in the dunes, but that is the only nice thing I can say about them, they do not help you turn at all. the rear tires are way too much paddle, for my bike, can not spin them. my friends all have built banshees (50 plus hp) and they run eight inch wheels with eight scoops, seems to be the hot setup, if you wanna try the ten scoops get a hold of me, if you are near by.you can try them out before you blow $200 plus

dude mybuddy just got HID's onhis banshee, not sure how they work exactly, but I think you can run the stock stator...man they are great I can ride my two wheeler behind him at night and just see in front of him, or he will ride behind me....they were about a grand, but that's cheaper than a trip to the ER for a broken back cuz you didn't see the witches eye.....website is bajadesigns.com check them out...pretty cool stufff...

Al ot of my pals run Mobil one synthetic atf for years now...any opinions? I think I will try the redline, myself, I run their pre-mix, and it's pretty good.

I want to purchase some shiny aluminum pipe clamps for CPI pipes, but I have only seen them listed for the "big" names like FMF, Toomey, Pro-Circuit, etc. I am pretty sure one of these will work but which one? I do not have the pipes yet, so hard to gauge....

I am at sea-level, and ride mainly at glamis, if I remove the airbox snorkel, on a stock bike, do I need to re-jet? bike is stock otherwise, and run yamalube 32:1 and 91 octane fuel.

I have a 2004 candy red w/white, so I ordered the white tank, and went to yamaha and got the factory stickers, so it looks stock. as for the turning radius, I still have the stock bars, and have no problem, lock-to -lock left to right. but I plan to run some pro-tapers, or a clone of them in the future, which will give it about a 1" rise I think... as for cutting the plastic, it was just the side panels no biggie. and I did have to "play" with the holes and "clean-up" the mount for the petcock...all in all it took me less than an hour to install with no special tools....If I could do it again, I would maybe get the neutral/clear one, I find myself being used to the small tank taking the cap off and looking inside all the time, and being amazed at how much fuel is left. also noted that the stock cap will not fit the aftermarket tank, so those of you with the polished aluminum gas caps, may have a problem...

I just got my new Clarke mfg. tank direct from Clarke mfg. about $217, well worth it it looks so much better than the IMS ones my pals have and it doesn't "look" as bulky it holds 5.5 gallons, and with the factory stickers looks almost stock, little wider, little taller. looks trick with the cutouts for air flow in the side, rather than the IMS one.... highly recommended......

I got my TORS eliminator from: www.rockymountainatv.com $53.99 no tax but like six bucks shipping came with cable caps tap and screws.....made by toomey. good luck

I have tried Mobil one synthetic oil 5-30 and it was great while it was cold, but as soon as it got up to operating temp....poppin out of gear, can't find neutral, doesn't shift as smooth.....so I switched back to regular motor oil, it was a little better, so I started changing it every ride....after about the fifth oil change, I could say it was almost back to normal.that was on my last bike, now that I have a new Banshee, I won't make that same mistake...all of the locals here in my town recommend Mobil one synthetic ATF... and change it about once a season...I may try that after it is broke in a bit more. good luck as said before there are hundreds of options.and opinions

has anyone ran this setup before? because of our new noise restraints and spark arresteer issues, I might keep this set up for a while...or am I spinning my wheels by not opening up the exhaust?

by the way, I run 91 octane fuel yamalube at 32:1 ...thanks for any starting points or help

I have a 2004 stock banshee, I have clamp on K&N filters, at Sea Level, with stock pipes, and removal of TORS. what would be a good starting point for jetting???eventual plans are for a set of CPI inframes. but that may wait til next season...but I have the filters now. and would like to use them.