Wallrat

Graydon makes some of the sickest nerfs out there...not too common either.

I've heard that when you start advancing your timing you can run into heating probs. Most people stick with +4 cuz its a good combination of power vs. reliability. Not sure but milling your head and running +4 advance may be too much to keep running pump gas.

Did you replace the reed gaskets as well? Only other thing I could think of is that you didn't adjust your shifter right. When you put the star back on did you make sure you could shift through all 6 gears? My guess is you didn't and what happened is you weren't actually in neutral. Probably had an air leak which caused it to rev up. The rpm's or the vibration caused your shift star to slip from where it was stuck inbetween gears and dropped it into gear.

I've got a shee and I bought my wife a yfz. I hate to admit it but the yfz is faster. She's not the best rider yet so she can't hang head to head but when I race my buddies I either keep up better or pull away more when I'm on the yfz. Few more days and I won't be saying that anymore...hehehe.

Congrats man, what year is it? Pipe it and its a whole new machine.

The current high bidder is in the UK...maybe he screwed things up in the conversion.

Anybody know which throttle cable I need for a single 35pwk airstryker? I'm using a graydon style 2:1 intake.

Do a search over at www.yfzcentral.com. I got the pro design one and installed it but I don't remember offhand which wires I tied into. If I remember correctly you find the wire bundle down under the oil res. and follow it up to where it splits. One of the wires in the split is green if I remember correctly. You splice the long wire from the switch onto that and then ground the other wherever is convienient. Just doublecheck the color of the wire, the rest should be accurate.

I've got a Garmin Etrex Legend as well and damn that thing is handy. I bought a handlebar mount for $7 that lets me attach it to any 7/8" bar. You may be able to attach it to fat bars by removing the rubber gasket inside the mount but its gonna vibrate more and may have problems. The current speed reading is very accurate as long as you've been holding that speed for about 1-2 seconds. If your trying to figure out your speed on a MX track...it ain't gonna give you a very good idea. But if you're cruising on a trail or on some sand then it works like a charm. As far as maps go you can get Topo map downloads. I think the software is $100 for the garmins and its the entire US. Topo maps use lines to show elevation. After you've figured out how to read them they're friggin awesome. I don't bother with any maps but then I only ride sand so its always changing. I just have "waypoints" saved for some of my favorite places to ride to (camp, hills, good jumps, etc.) I can have it on map mode but even better is the goto mode which points an arrow in the direction of my waypoint no matter which direction I turn on the shee. I've found that I save a ton of gas having the gps on my handlebars which I only do when I'm cruising to a destination. Once I get there I usually turn it off and stash it in my pocket for safety. I never go out riding anymore without the gps simply because you never know what's gonna happen around the next corner. Garmin also makes a 2-way radio/gps called the Rhino. What's cool about this gizmo is that not only can you talk to your buddies up to 5 miles away, but if you're both using Rhino's it shows you on the screen where they are. So technically I could get hurt up to 5 miles from camp and just by talking to them they could come and get me. Oh and the 'track' function isn't to be confused with making a MX track that you ride. "Track" is the gps term to draw a line on the route that you took. That way you can select to "track back" and the gps will tell you exactly which way to go to retrace your steps. Or if your back at camp and want to go on the same exact ride that you did yesterday you can do that too. Works great for when you find a good ride that you want to try at night.

English class comes to mind.

Shit mofo! You still haven't even talked to her? Quit f'n worrying about sex, friendship, relationship, B.S. and just friggin say hello! You're reading way too far into all this shit. In addition your asking us again what you should say. You've got 6 pages with at least a dozen good responses about what you should say/do. Pretty much I think continuing this thread will be a waste of bandwidth until you've grow a pair of balls. ...and my wife agrees!

Did you sync your carbs after cleaning them? Out of sync carbs will be most noticeable at idle-1/4. Reeds-wise the vforces are nice, got my set in the mail right now. From what I could tell from the RMATV catalog the 3's uses all the same petals whereas the 2's have 2 different petals. My guess is this had more to do with manufacturing costs than performance. So go with whatever is cheaper.

I've found that 800x600 works well on the HQ.

Haha...I did the same thing when I first got my shee. Ran 8" wheel with geckos cuz they were cheap and I was broke - Man was that stupid. A new set of knobbies hooks up at least as good as the geckos do. I'm running Sand Stars on 10's now and love em for everything except dragging (which I rarely do). Not much more money either.

No kidding. I hop on my wife's YFZ and i hate that stupid thumb crap. One of these days I'll convince her to go twist. She was set on it till she hit a whoop hard on my shee and rolled that throttle on...scared her a bit. Basically the trick to using a twist is having good coordination even when the unexpected happens. Its like anything you have to learn, at first its ackward and you have to conciously think about it but after a while you don't even notice. Most riders tend to drop their wrist when they hit something hard or unexpected or bring the front end up unintentionally. Having ridden only a twist my whole life my wrist stays straight no matter what.

I'm building a stroker right now using a wiseco H129 crank (that's +4 stroke with the long rods) and 795 pistons. Had my head cut to accept the added stroke. Should be a sweet little sleeper since it'll look stock from the outside. My understanding is that running a spacer screws with the crankcase volume as well as having one more potential source for a leak so its not the best way to go. The crank ran me something like $425 and the head cost $100. Really not all that bad if that's all you do. Porting will run another $2-300 or so (mine's stock right now) but needs to be done unless your happy running at 2/3 of your potential horsepower. Basically without porting to the added stroke you'll feel some gains but it will be minimal, similar to getting a mild port job on a stock shee.

I prefer twisties hands down. It def. takes some getting used to and if your coming from a thumb throttle background you may not like it. I'd say try it and if you don't like it you could most likely trade somebody on here for a thumb.

Ya but if you're coming off of some restrictive stock pipes then its gonna be lean as all hell. So my guess is a melted piston at worst.

Just go reverse pile-driver and watch out for the kidneys

Mine's to gain about 200 lbs, become a raving drunk and a hardcore smack addict. Oh yeah and start picking up whores.

Haha...wow. Ok I'd really like to say that I was tired or distracted or something. But in reality I just had a total brain fart. Ya blocking off the air would obviously make it richer. Since you already tried the choke trick I guess you're S.O.L. until after the holiday. Unless you wanna drill some holes into your intake

Well you can do a few things even during the holiday. First how do the plugs look? If it's running rich you can block off part of the airbox or use a baggy and a rubberband if you've got a clamp on kind of setup. If blocking off the airbox tape or cardboard work well. Just work your way up from a little bit of restriction to more. You don't want to run her lean. Not gonna do you much good anyway except maybe confirm that your rich.

I checked the K&N website and found that they've got 3.5"x6" round clamp on filters (part # RD-0620 or RU-0620). I couldn't see any difference between the two. Also if there's enough room between the pipes K&N also has a 5 1/8" diameter x 6" long tapered filter (part # RU-3560)

Rocky Mountain sells a Tusk chain breaker for $10 part # is 196-004

Ebay or Maier. Either will cost you $30-$40. BTW, how many times are you gonna post this?