Wallrat

I've got Maier's on my shee. Race front and the rears. They look good to me.

We like to camp out in the dunes off of Gecko Rd. The washes get dusty and are usually kinda loud, Gecko doesn't have the dust but it also gets loud. By camping about 200 yards out in the dunes we don't have any of the noise or stupid people stumbling or riding through our camp. Much safer for the kids as well IMO. Getting out there is pretty easy if you've got a 4x4 or somebody your camping with does. We've towed RV's out there without much of a problem. Its slightly uphill as you drive out so getting back down the hill to the road usually doesn't even require 4 wheel drive. From our camp here's the distances to some of the sites: Olds: 2.2 miles Lizard Hill: 3.4 miles Drags: 0.5 miles China Wall: 9.6 miles Comp Hill: 1.5 miles Vendors/Glamis store: 5 miles Sweet Maries (vendor): 600 feet China is about the only place that isn't close. We still go there regularly though. If we take it kinda easy on the way out then we have enough gas to run the hill 10-15 times and then ride as hard as we want on the way back. Dunno yet is we'll be out there during that time but if I'm not working then usually we go.

Happy bday! Dunedemon for your bday I got you a whole metric buttload of rain. I'll send it down to Glamis since I know that's where you are.

Oh I'm not worried about dogs. I used to read electric meters so I've squared off against pitts, rotts, dobes, you name it...I've just found that most dog owners are morons when it comes to their pet and if a dog comes after me, its going to lose. So usually I just avoid the situation altogether.

Sent you a PM.

35 watts and they're brighter than stock.

The ball welded itself to the rod. Usually happens when you pull in the clutch in 6th gear and shift down to first or pull in the clutch going down a long hill. Basically there's no easy way to get the focker out...just work at it.

So I decide to take my mtn. bike out for a cruise today since I've been itching to go riding - don't really care what I'm riding at this point. Mind you I haven't ridden the thing in a year and I haven't ridden any REAL trails in 5+ years. I took it pretty easy at first and after a couple miles I was riding along a little pathway with a drainage ditch on my right and a fairly steep little 10 foot drop on my left. I spotted a couple walking their 2 rather large dogs towards me so to avoid any issues I decided to just bail off of the path and drop down onto the other trails to my left. I was moving pretty good at about 17 mph or so when I launched myself over the edge. Now on my shee I do this kinda thing all the time at twice that speed when dropping into a bowl. Unfortunately I failed to realize that my bike was about 39" narrower than my shee... So ya my front tire took off from underneath me and I went down on my right side. Luckily I was able to roll after the initial hit so I only got a tiny bit of roadrash on my right forearm, hip, and knee. The bike did pretty well since it ended up flying into a bush after my pedals came off my shoes. Small bend in the front rim and my steering stem got crooked to the left a little. Couple minutes of trailside repair and I was on my way. Just thought I'd share my little mishap for everyone's amusement.

Impeller...point taken nightrider. And yeah I'm changing the seals too

Good thing you didn't need one of their $90 clutch levers! Although I will say...man those are some nice levers

Here's a link to the Barnett basket ($220 at my local shop): LINK The reason I like those is not only are they billet, but then they also have stainless inserts on the ears to protect from getting notches. Even the Hinson baskets start notching after awhile. The vitos is basically the same as PE and the others...they're just Hinson knockoffs, probably about the same quality as the Hinson.

aol is gay

Anybody got an extra one in new or like new condition? Would rather find one for cheaper than the $60 new ones on ebay.

All of the stock baskets do that fairly quickly. That's why you should replace it with aftermarket. As far as checking the bolts like nightrider said...good luck! A stock basket has the gear riveted on. Technically you could run it a bit longer but you'll want to upgrade to a new aftermarket basket ASAP. Personally I like the Barnett baskets but they're kinda hard to find. Make sure you change your oil after every ride and you shouldn't cause anymore damage.

It may be time for a new top end. Low compression makes starting a bitch. Seriously man...you need to learn how to do some of your own maintenance. 2 strokes are so simple its scary. Sure it takes a bit of time but you'll understand problems better and will save yourself thousands of dollars.

Hard to say since I haven't even gotten to the hard part yet. If its a total bitch I probably won't make anymore whereas if its not too much of a hassle I'll make a few more and sell em for less than $100. I got my 35 PWK off ebay for $68 shipped and that's what I'm taking the measurements off of. Different carbs might require different size tubing.

Your thinking of a sphincter. Your body has several sphincters but the most well known are the 2 in your asshole. A sphincter is any circular muscle that contracts and relaxes. The one up ur butt keeps you from shitting all over the place.

soak the bastard in some kind of penetrating oil...Kroil is my favorite. Put the nut on so its even with the end of the threads and give it a few raps with BFH. Then soak the hell out of it again. Keep repeating about every 20 min or so. Before cutting it out as a last resort I'd try just heating the bolt with a torch. I believe this will ruin the bolt tho so...

The tire sizes are set up like this: diameter x width x rim size. Either of the tires you mentioned will fit a stock shee rim since the rim is a 10".

I've always heard the area between your asshole and balls refered to as the gooch.

The pin for the blaster pistons is further up inside of the piston.

I'm currently fabricating a 2:1 similar to red's. That design is based on the old Graydon Proline 2:1 that is no longer made. Red cast his whereas I'm milling a couple stainless flanges for the intake and then using 1.5" stainless tubing welded into a 'Y' shape. I'll hopefully be building the jig today and if its easy enough to make one, I might just make a few for some of the guys on the HQ. I had read somewhere that the shorter the intake, the more low end you'll have. My setup should put the carb somewhere near the stock location but probably slightly shorter.

Hey I'm just curious about the LSR frame setup with the 250r geometry. Basically I understand this much so far: Banshee's have poor front suspension geometry so LT doesn't work so hot. The outlaw frame fixes this and uses all 250r suspension parts so it handles great. So my question is...if you were to go that route how many 250r parts would you have to run? Is it basically everything is 250r except for the engine and plastics? Their website wants you to pick years on the parts so what year would the frame be most like? I'm just entertaining ideas since I found out I've got a sizeable chunk of money coming my way and I'm planning on replacing everything on my current shee anyway.

Technically you could but I'm anal. Anyway doesn't matter, I had the wifey take the measurements for me.

I talked our machinist at work into making me the flanges I need for my 2:1 but I forgot to bring my reed cage into work for measurement. Can anybody with a micrometer take some measurements for me? Here's what I need: Length of Intake flange: Width of Intake flange: distance center to center of lengthwise bolt holes: distance center to center of widthwise bolt holes: diameter of bolt holes: I don't need any of the inside measurements.