Wallrat

Here's a link to BenBB's jetting FAQ page. Some stuff is obviously different but I'm sure you'll be able to figure it out LINK

Hey man I hate to tell you this but generally people ditch the tors as soon as they get their shee. Its more crap to deal with and one more thing to check when you're having engine problems. Check the repairs forum...anytime somebody has an unexplained problem the first advice given is to remove the tors. I dunno what most people do with em after they take it all off but the trashcan is probably the best place.

Shee03...maybe its the angle but those nerfs look scary! You can still get your foot down to the ground only with those nerfs you won't be able to pull it back up!

Man you need to change your plugs more often. Even with my bike jetted perfectly I change em out every few trips out to the dunes. Oh and put new ones in there. Cleaning them is a good quick fix to get back to camp but don't make a habit of it.

Also where's your airscrew set at?

There's a cam mod that you can do that will lose a hair of bottom end and gain on top but that's with the stock cams. I'd check over at www.yfzcentral.com they probably could answer you better.

You don't have to have it ported right now but without porting the gains will be minimal - basically the same as a mild port job. You do however, need to either run a spacer plate or have your head domes cut to accept the added stroke. I just rebuilt my bottom end and threw in a +4 but didn't have the money for porting. Taking the jugs off is easy so I'll be sending those out in a few months. It doesn't matter if your head is milled, they'll be cutting the domes deeper since the pistons will go higher than the cylinders. You'll also need to run wiseco 795 pistons which have the connecting point to the rod moved closer to the cylinder top. Basically your looking at about $425 for the crank, $100 to get the head cut, and then $150 or so for the pistons.

They're the same. Might as well buy the cheap delrin ones. I got thru a set every season.

I'll be moving to the Outer Banks in the summer of 2006. I dunno about the atv riding but Hatteras has some of the best kiteboarding in the world.

If you click the link for Noss at the top of the forums you can find a compression chart for different size domes at different altitudes on the shee. A stock shee at sea level puts out something like 130 psi I think so 110 is a pretty worn out engine. Unless you're riding up in Colorado or something.

Well I only got to ride it up and down my street a couple times as the cops in my town go apeshit over a speeding ticket, let alone a guy doing 45 mph on a shee in a residential neighborhood. I finished it too late to make it out to the dunes this past weekend. It's quick as hell and actually has a bottom end!!! Almost equally amazing was how easy it was to shift and neutral no longer requires an act of god. Props to boonman for his shift star work. I was taking it easy and the front end kept getting light - course I was on pavement too so that no doubt helped. Its got a little hesitation right off idle still so I think I need to drop my pilot. I didn't wind it out through the gears cuz I'd like my topend to last more than a month so I probably won't get to really tap into its potential until I get to glamis this weekend. But damn its a great feeling to have a reliable engine under my ass.

It really depends also on your elevation and temperature. But ya 270 and 280 is about where a piped shee is jetted for sea level and normal 70 - 90 degree temps. You're gonna need a bunch of jets no matter what though for temp changes and such so you might as well get the kit.

With a 40mm carb its gonna run like shit no matter what you do. Get some 35mm carbs.

I think this one takes the cake---> TORS

Its not just a revalve. Anywhere can revalve a shock for like $150 or so. TCS basically rebuilds the whole shock but just uses the same body...maybe somebody else can clarify this.

I'm coming from a toomey 2:1 and this is much louder. Maybe its just a single carb = more velocity thing...

Just finished my rebuild and my intake sounds like one of those stupid exhausts that the rice burner kids put on their accords when I gas it. It sounds really 'throaty' right at the filter. I'm still trying to dial in the jetting but I dunno if that's what's causing it or if that's normal for a single carb. Anybody know?

You really only need 3 barnett springs and 3 stocks unless your putting out some crazy HP. Torque is 20 ft/lbs. New bolts are $2.00 ea. at the yammy dealership. If you're reusing the stock metals then you start with the little nub at the arrow on the inner hub. You then offset each additional plate 60 degrees (there's arrows every 60 degrees on the hub). If you're using the new plates that come with a dirt digger kit then there isn't any staggering to do.

Alot of guys on here are running 10w-30 castrol GTX. I just swapped over to it after this last rebuild since I change the oil every other ride anyway. Alot easier at $2/qt.

Ya a set of barely used cases will run you about $200. You can get a set that's cracked around the chain but not leaking for around $140 or so. If all you're gonna do is swap out cases its a pretty fast job. Should be able to do it in under a week. Thing is...as long as you're in there you might want to do a few mods.

From your mods I'd say stick with the +4. TCS can revalve/spring a stock rear shock for $450 or so...makes a world of difference.

Finally got it far enough along to give it a few kicks. Took about 5 total but fired up no problem. Man is it good to smell that exhaust again. Still have to get the plastics on and work out some jetting issues (sounds like a god damn fart cannon when I goose it). Its been a good day, time to start drinkin!

The faster your engine, the less reliable it will be. That's why you've got guys building a 'drag only' bike and a keeping a semi-stock extra around for actual riding. So what you need to ask yourself is, how fast do I want to go? If you slap in a +4 stroker, get it ported, new carbs, and a new head you'll be faster than 95% of the people at the hill and still be very reliable and able to ride it for fun as well. Where are you located?

changing to a single carb setup and lightenning your flywheel will both result in better throttle response. Right now I think only Trinity Racing makes a single carb system. Boonman on here can lighten your flywheel.

I sandblasted mine and used duplicolor engine enamel. A year later it still looks as good as the day I painted it. I have yet to find a more durable can paint.