Wallrat

Actually running isn't the best workout. Not only is it hard on the joints but its not nearly as efficient of a calorie burner as kayaking is. Paddling ranks first for burning calories and building endurance, followed by swimming, running takes third. I've never been into weights or gyms myself. You can get surprisenly big with nothing more than using your own body mass. Pushups, situps, crunches, obliques, pullups, lunges, jumping jacks, etc. all work VERY well. Best of all its free and you can do it anywhere.

-2 and most guys will agree that quicksand makes some great swingers.

JESUS! Man, maybe its my computer but I can't even see the train tracks in any of those pics!

I'd email Houser and ask if they made some. I've never even heard of them as making shee stuff.

They're very popular with the YFZ folks...didn't know they made anything for the shee. Nice quality apparently tho...here's the site: Houser

Ya given that everyone here says your way too lean, focus on that first. If it still runs bad then come back to us and we'll work on the next problem. I doubt its your stator though. Jetting for just pipes is nutty cuz porting/polishing is gonna cause you to have WAY more airflow. Just a guess here but you've probably already done some damage since it sounds like you've been running it alot the way it is. The reason why you always start rich and work your way down is cuz running just long enough to wind it out and get a good read from the plugs is plenty of time to cause some serious damage. I'd check your compression, fire your builder, and get some 380's - 400's.

Ya your ridiculously lean man. Remember...start rich and work your way down. I think I've got 270's in my bike and all I have is pipes and a filter. At least I think I have 270s...damn been so long since I rode anywhere but glamis that I haven't jetted in like a year!

I'll bet some LIGHT sanding on the circular part of the guard would make things easier.

If you don't already know how to read your spark plugs then its time to learn. BenBB has a great little Jetting FAQ that he wrote up linked in his Sig^ Ideally you'd like to do a plug chop everytime you change the jetting but learning just how to read a plug while on a ride can be very useful as well. Congrats on the new bike and welcome to the HQ!

Having all the adjustment you can is always a good thing IMO. I know that there are times I wanna cruise slow and I don't want to feel every bump on the trail so I'll soften up my ride. Other times I'm trying to see if I can meet God off of a lip and I need that extra bit of cush to keep from having a vinyl seat up my ass.

Take your cyls into whoever you would like to do the porting. Any good builder could tell you if they'll work or not.

The exhaust pipe?!? Yiikes that's alot of gas. I'd go ahead and change the oil before I did anything. Glad to hear that you found the problem.

What he said. I had 55w bulbs in my lights when I got the bike...searched all around and finally found some 35w bulbs...had to be twice as bright with the 35w. FYI the stock stator puts out 70w on the lighting circuit. Aftermarket stators that say they put out 200w are 200w just for lighting. The juice needed to keep her running is on a seperate circuit and isn't usually included on the stator stats.

A better place for the boost bottle is on ebay. Really man...it basically does nothing. Somebody posted this whole analysis of the boost bottle a while back. Essentially you might gain about .000001HP...just enough to justify the claims made by its creators.

I think the same thing every morning.

Talk about your humble beginnings...of course it all went downhill from there.

I'm still not sure if I'm going to make this one. The shee is still gonna be down it looks like and there's usually a gang load of guys wanting the time off so if there's overtime to be had I'm gonna grab it to help the shee get back on her feet again. If there isn't any OT though I'll probably come out for a couple days with the yfz. Probably 27-29th or so. Really would love to make it but need the money more.

The main problem with getting an 89 is that its gonna have J arms instead of upper a arms. They get the job done but tend to wear out bushings pretty fast. I've got an 87, replaced the bushings in February and they're already shot again. If you want to get aftermarket A arms then your gonna either have to replace the frame or weld in a $160 kit to ditch the j arm setup. Arms are an expensive upgrade, and since you usually do suspension at the same time, adding another $160 is kinda a pain in the ass. Also make sure you REALLY inspect the frame, arms, and swinger for cracks. Shee's are generally ridden hard and that many years takes a toll on the metal. I had to replace my swinger after finding several nasty cracks and I've already had to repair a new crack on the frame. Cracks generally show up near the shock mounts but could be other places. My frame cracked near one of the engine mounts. As a comparison, I paid $3200 for my shee but I'm in California where all quads are ridiculously expensive. Had it been an a couple years newer with an a arm frame it would have gone for at least $4000. Mine had dual k&n's, fmf pipes, nerfs, renthal bars, fresh topend, and aftermarket lights when I got it.

The understanding that I had was that if you had your cyls ported before getting it stroked then the ports aren't going to match up. This may or may not be correctable by getting it reported, depending on how much was removed from the first porting. A spacer plate fits in where the cyls attach to the case thereby raising the cyls up to compensate. The preferable method of dealing with the extra stroke is to either run a different head made for strokers or to have your stock head domes milled to accomodate the added stroke. I don't really understand the physics involved but spacer plates screw with crankcase volume and aren't a very good way to go. If you added a stroker crank without having the engine ported you'd feel some gains, but it wouldn't be much. I was told that a stock engine running a +4 stroker would have about as much power as a stock engine with a mild port job. That's basically all I've learned so far as I'm researching the same topic. Although in my case I have no porting but am planning on getting it ported in June.

Mine's on its way back from boon right now along with my shift star. The only thing I'm bummed about is I'm doing other mods to the engine while its down so I won't know what difference the flywheel made. Oh well no big deal as long as it runs faster and better then before the rebuild!

I had 125psi on one cyl, zero on the other. Having a fresh topend doesn't mean that bad shit can't happen. Mine was caused from the previous owner's shop not chamfering the ports when they bored the cylinders. Cost me a head, pistons, and crank.

I dunno I was split on this one...kill the focker or open up his ass to every inmate in San Quintan...Regardless, verdict was death.

Check your compression. Mine did the same thing and it turned out I'd snagged a ring on my exhaust port. Ended up costing me the whole engine.

I was told that the pins that the rods and needle bearings slide onto tend to get marred when you trash a crank. You can rebuild the crank a dozen times but those pins are gonna wear out the needle bearings faster no matter what. You can get a builder to rebuild a crank on a fresh core but I think cores run like $250 or some crazy shit. Considering you can get a +4 that's 100% rebuildable for about $400 I don't think its even worth it to try and salvage a stock crank.

I bought a radiator off of him that he said was in "very good" condition. When I got it I would say that at best it was in okay condition. Wasn't too big of a deal...just had to spend about 2 hours on it straightening fins.