camatv

i have no clue

dont need to do plug chops on alky to see the jetting or heat affect's those have fixed powerjets in them. i'd highly suggest getting a adjustable pj put in you may not find a lean out spot til its too late and you have damaged the top end. if it ever just falls flat out or "shuts off" its wayyy to lean. put in new plugs and watch your burn rings.. i'd also suggest going to a 125 dump and main and clean it up with smaller slow jets and adjustable powerjet. you need to get it too rich then work your way back down.. if you can get the carbs so rich it wont hardly run you at least know you are safe to tune it DOWN its much easier to go rich to lean instead of lean to rich..

for them to work like tricked is describing takes way more than just wacking the dogs off. when it works right theyare very close in speed to an override. and at least 9 million times better than stock just like an override if it was just the drum done or just angle cut gears it wouldnt work.

5 bucks?

sounds to me like the wsm with the differnt pin height and banshee dome profile are the big bore stroker 68mm banshee pistons.. blaster pistons are just that blaster pistons... they have the blaster dome profile and the differnt pin height due to it being a blaster... any piston with a too much piston to wall clearance will break skirts and have issues. since the cubs mostly come as cast and plated for maybe running with wiseco pistons ( as thats whats spec'd at CP INd) i would say using a differnt brand, tolerance piston without changing the wall clearance will most likely result in a failure. in all reality if your running a CUB or other previously plated cylinder a correct piston to wall clearance is very necessary.. im sure if you droped in pro-x cast pistons in it it may have the same issues.. but you'd have to measure it..... thats basic engine building techniques...

hmm seems simple to me. if you have stock reeds yes buy 4's if you have vf2's or 3's just wait till the reeds break ( yes it will happen) then buy the 4's. done

i think for another 25 bucks i will get the hotrods full crank..

i have a custom painted set of fullbores i'd sell f0r 600. the yellow and black LE plastics i feel are worth a lot. but thats just me

did someone say cupcakes?? guess the price of v-f-3's just plumeted..

i will try that on the next one. anything is better than chattttteeeeerrrrrr ( snap)

i'd love to see the "design differences" in all these diff domes. i have seen a TON of differt builders domes come through here and almost all of them were the same basic shape. had a few that came through that were similar to GP designs i have seen in the 80's most just had differnt width squish bands. some were 8mm and went up to around 9 or 10 all the PD domes are in the 11-12mm wide range ( to damn wide in my opinion) i'm playing with ways to stimulate turbulence and control hot spots... its fun!

i think there are some in the wichita area but not sure who is any good..

i didnt know if that would work or not. i'll give that a try. been also using smaller diamond bits for transfers they dont kick as hard most times.. i also feel the same way even though i have been doing it for a long time i get better every set i do i have pulled my personal cylinders back off a few times and gone in to do more work. practice practice practice

if you cannot make sand fest MAKE THE HQ RIDE!! its the best time of the year. i will be there for sandfest but probably not bringing any bigger drag bikes just chillin with the trail ride.

cheetah's dont have problems with carbs rubbing clutch lever even with bigger bowls.. and i like mozzarella cheese on my chicken parm i dont have a clue what all this 49+page post is actually getting at.. wow never seen this kinda crap with the whole rdz/ shear thing that happend or the scamozinsky of the whole rocket debacle what about JAWS pipes??

like i have said in the past. these pipes are excellent for dunners!! just like cpi but better.

do a squish test and measure your squish close to the piston wall and then close to the edge. also make sure your bore is correct for the dome should have ample clearance around where the piston edges are. some of the 68mm pistons actually have a flat spot out on the edge before the crown starts to come up. i have seen issues with that hitting the domes. you can take a full squish measurement and have NOSS make you any dome you want. i use a modified alky dome that i have been playing with and i can send specs to him and he whips them out for me pretty quick. also been experimenting on a somewhat differnt design that i havent seen before. so far it has been working very well on pump gas motors. most shops will have a dome design very similar to the "alky" K+T desin i started seeing after the cubs first came out. it was one of the only solid designs that wouldnt lift the head on the front stud.. of course if a dome desin just works it works. you can change it and call it "new" but its still just basic 2 stroke design

what threads with test results? they look sweet!

thats a basic setup. it works ok if your on a budget. you have to be very careful using that 90d air tool but it will work. i used one for a long time the foredom stuff is pretty nice and a NICE 90* foredom tool isnt to bad but its just as difficult to use as the air in some ways. i have a SR motor now and it has reversable setup i really want to be able to reverse it and see if that helps on back hand work ( hard to describe... i watched for used motors for a while then just got tired of seeing them sell for about what a new one cost. and they were all about 20-30 years old, i just bought a brand new SR setup for a lil less than 200 bucks. it came with the quick change and a few pretty useless bits. but a nice burr holder and rotating caddy. but i am starting to really like the quick change handpiece. also all the other handpieces i have aquired over the years all quick change it has really helps to cut down some of the time it takes to do a cylinder. i change bits quite often and move them in and out of the collets also. everyone is going to have a way they do it... the biggest complaint i have on the SR motor is it takes a while to slow down its not as fast as a stop as the older motor i have.. c.c. specialties is a nice place for specialty burrs and some 90* tooling. i have watched ebay for years and seen 2 90* foredom type quick change tools. i bought one of them with a buy it now the 2nd had a buy it now also but as i was purchasing it it was sold HA it lasted all of about 30 minutes.. i think it would be very nice to have one 90 set up std and one set up with reverse cutter. just flop them out.. i think i have about 1500+ in porting tooling. probably more. i have seen lots of things affect a motor way more than a port job. it is a lot of fun i FEEL to play with porting if your not to worried with trashing your cylinder's i mean noone is going to show you at least i had a few friends that were reputable that got me started in the right direction at least.. but they were close. none of them really said do it just like this. one made me think a lot on how the reeds and transfers can work together. and still to this day i am trying differnt things been doing it for over 15 years now...

i stomp my 1-5's down all the time.. at the end i just rock em on down to 1st.. roll on up to the line again.. if it needs a spring to hold first out its a n std position i'd think... you will trash a duneable almost as fast as a std trans... they are a lil better better for downshifting at LOWER rpm's

tims are good. ask for ball jpoints. not sure if metaltech still makes a-arms but they are nice too. used also? you'd be amazed at what some scratched up a-arms bead blasted and repowdercoated look like.

transfer 129-132/ exhaust from 192-196 intakes big but not so big they will crack. ( takes practice) intake timing also comes into play and so does shape of exhaust port, transfer aiming, and transfer tunnel porting, shaping, and internal texture's to achieve a decent midrange / lowend port . everything else has a huge part in this as well. domes are a huge factor in making a good midrange stump puller.. HUGE boost ports aimed the correct way and also pistons with proper window size and window aiming can help. its not hard to make decent bottom to make a real tq monster ( over 50-55ft lbs) is difficult and will take every little advantage you can get. gordon jennings etc never gave this info away for free they wrote BOOKS back then you had to go BUY them or subscribe to the magazines they wrote for, or take a COLLEGE class for the information.. not free. no internett freebee's in the 70's also there is one book i read that seemed to help the most with differnt powerbands and how to acheve them and its not very popular.. or even well known there is nothing wrong with wanting to learn there is nothing wrong with wanting to build your own pipes there is nothing wrong with wanting to play with a motor, custom domes, learn to weld etc... yes the bigger shops and people with access to dyno's and lots of capital and time will almost every time produce a much better result than you can hope for. but hey. nothing wrong with trying. its very rewarding to acheive a build your happy with and proud of. just rember you didnt build it to impress the ding dongs on this site. build it for you. screw everyone else.

are you sure thats not 2 springs stacked together? ask the guy you bought it from where it goes. i'm pretty sure they go inbetween the shift forks one on case side, close to clutch. other inbetween the 2 in the the middle.

uhhh say what meow?

if the cub is a 68mm bore you cannot put the stock oem head on it unless it has been machined for the bore. if the bike showed high temps but didnt overheat, didnt overflow, and seemed to run ok, then seemed to cool down quickly ( i'm guessing the 250+ degrees was intermitent like after a long pull up a dune then at the top on the way down they went back do to the 220 ish range) in very high ambient temps i'd say you dont have a problem... a pump gas cub in 115* ambient temps running flat out is probably going to get pretty hot. try putting the OEM radiator back in. use a 60 + mix of coolant and water ( more coolant %) if you stop to let the bike cool down running at idle its not going to cool the radiator. (no air flow) what about the fans you were talking about? have you had a chance to run those yet. are you reading the temp from the motor before the rad or after the rad into the motor ( cooled temps)