camatv

the one listed through fast is the best one to use on these banshee's. after getting one from empi i wont use anything else on a banshee they are excellent sometimes you can find them in aluminum on ebay but they are rare. id prefer an aluminum one over the plastic design if not the one with mercury is the best for sport bikes. ( you can make one using atf or similar oil and tubing) i "tried" to use the one with the gauges and the lil clamps and bullshit it sucked compared to the mercury one i believe motion pro makes it?

deto. simple. something wrong with the dome profile or too much timing. it is basically hammering so hard and quick it just closes the gaps on the plugs no time to shake the motor and shoot them out . it could be a major lean out at wide open throttle from bad fuel delivery also?

they just dont work with my setup thats why the very low time i want to try a set of 14 ripper on a 74-76 roll Will trade for that tire or possibly a 12 ripper

you need a better frame setup. gearing and or tire

im not sure on the watering system all i know is it was obvious that they had plenty of $$$ ( the family i believe) hell the dyno was at his brother? house. they owned a flat track mx park drag track outside of town that was nice. he is a great guy and really understands these things plus he is not closed minded as much as some i talk to. he really understands how to make these bikes work based on what has been proven in other automotive and racing fields. nice to see that.

there ya go. if it was built by kip it could be about 10-15 year old build? also if the boost bottle was on it and the prev owner DIDNT want it gone it may have stayed for that reason also. sounds like nice take off intakes from an 02 are a good deal

sorry i just had to.... i'm not sure how to tell if its a "brake dyno. as far as i can rember is was the same as whats been talked about in here. it was in a little room on an addition to a house. built into the floor. was a sweet setup i thought.

ok so i have an honest question. i dont have any real dyno experience except a few years ago out at gigot's he was running a dyno/ drag day we put bikes on the dyno played with them then went out to a small track there and raced. it was a lot of fun. anyways... the next day i stayed around and we fooled with my turds for a few hours. when we FIRST put my 10 mill on the dyno it read 200 hp the graph was all nutty looking. and the bike revved very very fast. he said the "load was way off" and he fooled with a bunch of stuff on a display for a while till we got down in the 100+HP range. then the motor was "loaded" sounding. how did the load change so much from one day of running 4 strokes and small cc banshee's? it made me start thinking of how load ( gearing, tires, weight) affected motors and then i thought about ways to counteract those effects. gigot said the motor made to much tq and the load wasn't enough for the motor to make the right power. it was a fun weekend and i think i learned a lot. the wifes pump gas 350 with t-5's made 65hp from 7500 to 9500 in a flat line but never changed the load settings..? the 4 strokes the day before were in the 50hp ranges the 700 rappy we took out on spray did 60hp off spray and 100 with it ( 35 shot) whaa happen?

3500 maybe. you would probably get a lot of lowballers in the 2000 range phh. that dealer that got offer'd 8000 if he didnt take it he was a retard

and if you get a few runs out of the trans your doing good ( so i hear) i didn't look into the diesel motors to close. they are interesting for sure.. what about just doing a turbine?

why sell it? this would work bad ass on my 350cc

the "kit" runs about 1800+ with intakes and pistons gaskets head etc. new from some site sponsors that can get it the cheeta's are just not the BBD right now. so much misinformation on them also. peeps are just scared.. last year one like this sold for 450 on ebay and a complete with hp pv's went for less than 1000 both were shelf new in all reality this setup built right would put a serval in its place. have your bottom end AND all the top you would want. without the bad head design of the oe banshee

guess i'll chime in here. to do a "drag" 350, 365 etc stock cylinder in MY OPINION you HAVE TO take the bottom end apart. i would never recomend doing agressive porting and proper domes on a bone stock bottom end. i'm positive my 350 would smoke your friends 4 mill on av gas.. doing the motor right the first time will most likely guarantee that you can have a reliable build. i personally really like the stock moto setups because of the reliability of them and YES frame and light weight setups are key to making a small motor run very hard. i'd say more like 75% of the overall package. you get a 80hp banshee motor in a 220 lbs chassis and it has the right gearing light rider, and right tire setup yea its going to be quick. add 20hp on top of that and its even better.. to me smaller motors dont struggle to rev like the big ones do they like light weight a LOT and love to be able to be held in a certain rpm range. ( most in the 9000-11000 area) BUT one thats broader power is funner to ride. my 350 is very broad on the power of course it took about 24+ hours of cylinder work to make it do that. it makes less overall HP i'm sure BUT it pulls about 650lbs total bike rider weight on 14/41 gearing with 12 paddle haulers just fine. it wont "fall off the pipe" if you undershift it OR if you throttle it in a wheelie. most "drag" setups i have seen are in the total bike/ rider weight of about 400 or less i dunno maybe i am the only one that thinks this way? i REALLY think you need to ask yourself what you are really wanting?? a high rev motor or something that is actually fun to ride in the situation you have described.. if you want light switch power thats easy if you want broad proper setup that takes a lil more than a big exhaust port...

great build!! PLEASE this should have its OWN thread... damn

4 strokes have valves,, 2 strokes do not. the piston is the valve. 4 strokes bottom end is only pressurized by the change in cc of the lower end from piston movement. 2 stroke the underside of the piston is also pressurized. so as the piston is coming down it has to fight the pressurization from the turbocharger a pipe does not pressurize the lower end on the down stroke. it can actually put a vacuum on the bottom end depending on how well it is designed. a very very long time ago i had envisioned a turbo charged 2 stroke that was fed directilly through the transfer's no intake no connection between the bottom end and the top end.. at that time i was told i was a moron and it would never work and how would i get around all these issues. then i head about and read about 2 stroke diesel's they work in a similar way. i'd agree unless yoru ready to spend around 3500+ and then deal with tunning and broken parts think again.. then again i might sell the 3 boxes of parts i have amassed. ( seriously thinking about just dumping all my atv stuff and starting on old hot rods)

i didnt read all the rest of the comments just wanted to say it could be the throttle cable. get a new cable, and clean the carbs they probably need it any ways

guess i'll check back in February sometime. good job guys! thanks for anyone that will be involved with this for making it happen.

2 stroke turbo and 4 stroke turbo are very different animals. ( in my opinion) the tuning and lack of on the fly fuel management is what i would consider the major problem with one good pass then one bad pass. also the lack of modern setup's compared to cars i think is whats hurting them also. plus on a hill or a long stretch the turbo's really shine. they are able to get the turbo spun up then hold the boost for a longer period of time shear's turbosetup from the vids i have seen is very impressive. you can also call them and see what they have to say. a 200hp cub is no joke i also have my own theories that i'm thinking next year will get put to test. ( different carberator set, ups different pipe configurations) they may work they may not work i'm not going to post details for ridicule from people that have tried and failed with whats available now. thats why they are theories and not fact. you cannot get an idear to work without testing testing testing... i mean really i bet i am the only person in the world with a Weber Ferrari carb on a teryx. from everything i read they wouldnt work they ran lean and they were too big. after doing my own research and figuring out how the carb actually works i was able to get it jetted in pretty damn good. ( after fabing a complete intake, and everything that goes with that) if you want turbo and injection call gigot racing. in that HiPer magazine add he is listed in there. there is some story to as why those couple of companies are listed together. in my OPINION unless the fuel management is totally figured out it will never make clean passes back to back.

yes.

if the "break" is obviously a material failure ( just snapped off) then can be a lot of things... if its sand blasted off or blown off melted off etc its DETO> i have seen SOME heads blow out where the o-ring seals from to much internal pressure or bad dome design, and/ or weak ass head studs. the banshee stock head pattern has a very weak inherent problem in that area. the dome just does not have the same sealing pressure that the rest of the head has.

naw man you just turn this knob and it makes everything better! from what i have seen if its pump gas and ethanol blended usually about 1 weekend. i always try to burn just what i think i wold use for the ride and keep the fuel as fresh as possible. race gas IF its sealed air tight ( no "vent open" on the gas can) and the stuff in the tank on the bike is drained after the ride and then sealed its usually good for about 6 months then starts to kinda loose some pep. Alky pretty much the same thing. i have ran year old alky and its not as strong as fresh nice PURE race alky but it will still run. back when my trail/ dunner was an alky burner i didnt really care if it was a lil down on power. now as far as quality welp thats a whole nother thread.. i sell auto parts half the week and man the things that comes in there sometims i just am amazed they even made it to the store. let alone what some people think a "parts store" is capable of doing. ( no its not a peper boyz)

nice pics!!. someone needs a lil better riding posture!! ( yfz..)

just wanted to start a thread for maybe some of the people on here that work on others bikes or do repairs to whatever. i felt maybe some of the most common issues with peoples bikes were most times done by themselves. most were issues that resulted from someone saying oh this is what you need to do because its out of gas like pull start it for about 8 miles at 90mph and that will make it run. buying a "craigslist special" and then wondering why after 1 day of ridng it wouldn't start and refusing to do a simple compression test. then spend 3 weeks attempting to get a blown top ended motor to run by repairing and replacing everything except the real problem trying to save a buck. even a "builder" CANNOT guarantee that you install the motor right, jet it correctly, have a rock solid electrical system, and use good gas and oil mixture techniques, storage techniques . so many times i work on bikes that had a motor built by a pro only to be installed by someone that dosent know what to look for let alone tell if its lean or rich or what, and then have major issues with it that sometimes causes complete failure of the motor itself.. for example: bike wouldnt start from shitty gas thats been in an empty container sitting outside in the rain for 4 months, mixed with 800-1 oil mix, ( also even had one with alky in it like that WHOOO) crappy fouled plugs that they were to cheap to go get another set and then pull started the bike for so long the motor locked up from lack of lube, WHOOPS mis synched carbs that made the bike run so bad that it deto'd from issues of one slide being nearly all the way open before the other even started to open. UH OH pinched off fuel lines from crappy install'd carbs then not opening up all the way from using the stock thumb throttle to open 44mm carbs, motor go BUH BYE screws, bolts that hold in ( insert any motor parts including complete engine) falling out and causing the chain to fly off break the cases, carbs, filters etc to fall off, causing a huge lean hang and motor explosion, coils to fall off and loose their ground, lights, flywheels, etc etc etc.. WHAA HAPPN? self installed top ends where the pistons were installed backwards! head not tq'd correctly, heads over tq'd and studs snapping, head warped cyls warped etc etc etc... alluminum cylinders overheated so hard the studs are pulling right out of the softened alluminum OH SNAP! installing a swingarm thats longer geting a chain then wondering why the bike rolls so dang hard?? because they ran the chain UNDER the frame. SAY WHAT MEOW?? people buying used crap or just getting a bumb deal and then trying to make shitty parts work anyways... ( what chu mean it wont fit sheesh!) just a FEW of the things i have seen .. if anyone wants to add to this feel free. hell pics are even better!! people be careful out there. GET a repair manual TAKE the time to READ IT! and MOST importantly don't bite the hand that feeds you ( we aint got time for THAT) i'm not even going to get into the "drag bike" shit i have seen. thats a whole notha thread//

i'll start a new topic