camatv

yea stock cylinder gets thin BUT the CP cylinders are almost mandatory!! even without and case work they should be filled... and thats why i only use the metal former gaskets on them, ( cometic, OEM, athena, and even cheapo tusk ones!) i ALWAYS avoid the paper gaskets at all costs. i think of it like this why even risk blowing a 10 dollar base gasket on your trip to the dunes or out riding i mean yea its a cheap gasket but do you really want to split that motor in the pits and stay up all night to fix it for saving a couple of bucks?? to me its just not worth the risk.. or the hassel like jeff said just do it right the first time and be DONE

i thought you just hit them with a hammer till everything flew out.. nice pictures!

i think a few wanted them to work but what i really seen was them marketed as ready to go drag cyls and for a drag bike they might be. i'm sure not ALL of them peeled right from the get go. and there may have been other things with them also. ( bad tuning bad set up etc) i'm always up to trying somethign "new" i did try to jet one and it rode like it had an extremely HIGH exhaust and rally bad trans tunnel flow BUT in the right hands i think it was pretty quick. the customer ( like many i think) bought the "kit" on ebay and slapped it all on with some 34mm pj carbs then they couldnt figure out why it had NO bottom end. it was a lil tricky to jet and i got it about as good as i thought it could be. like i said i'd like to find a set that are junk nicko and play with them. they have potential but will take some real port work i guess its like comparing a stock set of OEM jugs unported to these yea these make a LOT more HP. but a properly ported set of stockers?>?>? its just all in all if the same guy had spent about another 500 bucks he could have bolted together a 421 cub and had similar power with possibly more bottom end in a well known and proven top end... and NOW with the serval a bolt on motor can be rideable.. the athena kit is trash.. the vito's at least can come with wiseco pistons... and was a diff casting ( i was told) but not sure who plated any of them..

i ran 41.3/44 alky lectrons on the 485pv motor it would lug up any hill and i could stab the throttle at ANY rpm and it would wheelie without the clutch having to be "poped" ( thats also what made it scary) i have noticed that alky in trail is a LOT of fun. you have to be able to tune and realize that alky DOSENt HAVE TO BE PIG RICH TO RUN . its just another fuel it has its lil quirks but hey what fuel dosent? if i can ever get a helmet cam i want to take a vid in the sticks of my 421 stocker on alky and post it. i think the ride vid would show its got excellent trottle response it dosent load up and its got a shizz ton of bottom end i rode a 350cc stocker with massive porting and alky 35's in the trails, and tree shooting with a +8 arm it was a lot of fun. it wasnt tight tight trails but the acceleration up the dune and through the tree shots was a LOT of fun. i had a 35o cc stocker with straight 36mm lectrons and fmf sst's and a "drag" port it was a blast also. didnt have to be screamed around and was set up on pump gas. that was a fun motor...

trinity's usually have very very small dia chambers and they are a very low/mid drag pipe. the pp's usually have a much larger chamber. but i'm not 100% positive. if i could ride it i can tell for sure trinity's have a very distinctive powerband.. and sound really good but just dont make any top end at all.

deto fo shaa PD domes after they have been detod a few time usually wont hold plugs. you may have to get new domes also.

i would say they are trinity's MAYBE whit nuckle. but chambers look very small.

do a search on google there is probably a shop local to you that stocks it i think i went to devcon's main site and they have a dealer locator. the alluminum stuff.

if messing with the needle position and the pilot is wrong or the main is wrong or the carb slide cut out is wrong it wont ever run well. in jetting i usually mess with the pilot and main as much as possible till it runs ver very well THEN mess with clip position. i usually leave the needle in the middle clip if after messing iwht it all and you just cannot get a good tune out of it the needle is WRONG. bogs are usually lean conditions. you want enough boost of fuel at low end and needle 1/4-3/4 to get the motor to rev then enough to get it to RPm and lean enough to make power..

sell the oko junk.. buy REAL pwk's get the needles from LRD ( if you can) and ride it i usually end up in the 45-50 pilot range, and 145-160 mian with this style carb NO bog NONE at all these lil carbs should bip bip bip all day long..

its too bad these kind of builds end up getting parted out.. really nice high quality build here..

nice welds! the problem i have seen with the wiseco's is they may not be pressed together all the way drop it in the cases and make SURE it clears them both sides and dosent rubb at all. also the center webb's main center pin? isnt welded either and that makes them phase out easily on bigger motors ( like the cub) the only way i know of welding the inside is to take it apart and weld it after its phased.. i have only delat with crankworks on that kind of a repair. and its not really cheap 180 bucks to 200 for all that. and it takes about 2 months wait. ( sometime less) but they are stupid true and welded by the best... might even check on having it pinned for phasing also. they really dont like the wiseco's that much...

in my OPINION the cub, serv, cheeta all should have case porting done they also (in my opinion) MUST have the top case filled for better sealing on the base gasket. i also only use the cometic alluminum former base gasket for them ( the .18 tho one) its easy to see why IF you have it case ported the mis match from the cases is significant.

pv's might need cleaned.. they are pretty picky on dome profile also. does it have a ricky stator in it? might have some other issue's also. ?

hey thats an XR4Ti sweet.. i had a couple of those

its there to make sure the plates slipp and eat your clutch up. HAHAHAHA icannot think of ANY other atv that uses the notched plates.. i use blue locktight on all internal bolts nuts etc.

kinda like the whole side by side thing.. people spending the same on a atv with 2 seats as they would on a BRAND NEW small car.. and believeing a radio is an option?

the effect they have on "reliable" 450 owners when you tell them how much its goona cost to fix their motor compared to a stroker in the ban... the look on those same owners after you rebuild their puny lil 4 stroke turds when you go wheeling past on the "budget bike" the people at the dunes that ask me why the 4 strokes wont race me.. the feeling you get after you sell one and dont have it for a while

wow.. now the cr500 that a lil diff story..

herp derp derp herp

i dont know why but i had an account on phototbucket and for the LIFE of me i cannot get back into it or get teh site to work for me.. this is the ONLY site i have issues with posting pics..

fronts are remote ressy. if you can pm me an email and i'll shoot you over some pics.

i have had them run just fine on the stock pilots.... put the neelde in the 4th clip one richer than the middle, and YOU HAVE TO ACTULLY SYNCH THE CARBS WITH A SYNCHRONIZER. many many many times after someone has takent he carbs on and off and messed with them off the bike and reinstall them they screw them up really badly twisted throttle cable, messed up slides, screwed up TORRS i have had the tors internals break from over tightening trying to get them to idle ( they only go so far) it somettimes takes someon with real experience with the torrs system and what all to look for to fix the issue's you are having.. i am sure if it was here i could figure it all out for you but there are SO many variables as to whats actually going on its hard to do over the internet..

are yoiu shitting me?!?!?! you can probably find a NICE nearly NEW take off stock bumper from someone on here for next to nothing.. why not just get a alluminum front bumper>/? i think i have a PILE of stocker fronts out there i'll see if i have some good rubbers

still available for whatever reason i cannot figure out how to get my pictures puny enough to post them my camera is 14m and they are just too dang large,