2004LEBanshee

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i believe him :geek:

this topic was started in 04. gg

I run a 15 41 with 20's I would be able to pull a 16. With a 15 41 and 18's your are closer to 14 41 with stock tires and that should be really similar to a stock z400 on top speed. If he turns out to have a few more mph due to gearinging you will lose because you are selling your engine short. gear to a 16 or 15 with 20's and that should do. it. That is a long race you will be out of gear before half way.

I run a 15 41 with 20's I would be able to pull a 16. With a 15 41 and 18's your are closer to 14 41 with stock tires and that should be really similar to a stock z400 on top speed. If he turns out to have a few more mph due to gearinging you will lose because you are selling your engine short. gear to a 16 or 15 with 20's and that should do. it. That is a long race you will be out of gear before half way.

$1,000 good luck. im at 2,500 ish dont forget clutch carbs, intake, new head, unless you use a spacer i guess, pipes used, odd ends seals, youll be closer to two,

drop the front tooth one or two. it will feel more torquey

I ride mine all the time as Im in a snow belt. On the roads that have been plowed and are packed I love it. You could benifite from a newer tire. May want to try maxis 4-snows. However on loose 4 or more inch snow that is virgin in trails it sucks. Never tried a snow tire may help but not sure. As for running in the cold mine always runs great most engines love colder air. I never had a problem starting or running, however I jet pretty frequently.

check the entire harness for frayed or worn wires

yea how hard is it to mount one of those the the shee mounting brackets.

what is your elevation

yes and no. I purchased a new regulator. I only had one funtioning bulb left so I put it on and reved it and it didnt blow. I took it out for a ride and gone. It blew again. I have it in stock location its not dirty, soldered the wire to the yellow stator lighting wire. what the heck. Can I just put 2 100 watt bulbs on it and assume it wollnt blow them? need help.

there dual.

well then what the heck is the problem with mine should i go back up to the 15

thats what I was thinking to how do you hang with 450's on road

stock, 20 in razors, 215, extended axle, extended a- arms. Leaves really hard now in sec, spins and wants to come up fast. more worried about the fact that I dont really pull that hard on him in the road like I thought I would. It feels way faster, but not seeing it, he is however a jocky 140 soak and wet, but that was the same when I just had, pipe, reeds, head, timing and flywheel, I was always a little faster but Im still just a little faster. doesnt make much sence. I cant think of anything I can do to get more power and still be trail able. I feel I should have enough done alread to put some good lengths down. I really dont expect to be faster in the dirt this thing is never going to hook enough to win there but I should own the road.

4 mill dune port, 35 Pwk, noss head 20+2 domes, +5 timing, vF2, cpI's, Noss clamp on K&N no lid, jettin, is 45, 158, plugs look good, I had 15-41 gearing but couldnt stay in the power band when I launched in 2nd kinda bogged, on clay, went to 14 41 now it leaves hard, wheelies pretty good when it leavs, power is now. I think I need to try like 14-40. I loved the 15 for the long pulls but it was a litte slow getting to the power band. Now its instant but doesnt feel that fast. This thing feels like it has a lot more power then it did before the build, wheelies on its own through 3rd and I can pull 5th easy but doesnt really pull my buddies piped yfz that much more then it used to on the road. I dont get it. hits hard at first, I dont under stand.

With my current mods I have about 184 on each cylinder compression. Am I loosing a lot of top with this. I have good low end but everyone I see seems to have less then me. I hear that lower comp pulls harder on top and high comp is for bottom end. I have a ton of bottom with this bike pulls instantly but wondering if it would be faster in a race with lower comp.

ok to be honest it just looks a little lean to me but not to bad looks light brown. I dont see any grey. Oh and here is a trick to save you cost of coollent. Take a set of vice grips and squeeze the hose to the head tight then unscrew and pop it off have a big bucket to catch the fluid from the head and rad when you relese the vice grips. then reuse it. I would just go up a jet.

I got it because I got a good deal on it and may switch lights in the future but thought it would be fine with the stock setup. I never moved the stock regulator since it was new only unscrewed the ground screw to redo the harnes. The lights at idle are nice and bright and if I bearly rev the engine they get really bright and white and burn out. the first set of bulbs one of them even exploded the glass. :geek:

I installed my 200w ricki stator about a month ago, long story short. I never checked my lights rode about two trips durring the day, Had electrical problem took apart my wire harness found 6 locations where wire was bare and worn. fixed it cut out wires I dont need. Reinstalled everything started it up, lights were on at idle reved it and pop. Re-checked everything, everything was ok, I guess. Installed the wire harness rechecked the ground it was good put new stock bulbs in turned bike on (high-low) work at idle. I reved it and pop. Is this stator too much for my regulator or what? I mean the regulator looks pretty much idiot proof one wire. Is it bad or do I need a more power full bulb.

those of you who say they know there not over heating. How do you know? Do you have a temp guage? I do and it will hit 200-220 pretty easy just a long lugging trail or a really long up hill or a couple brodies. I watch mine constantly and when it flirts with those numbers it will spit. If it spits your over heating.

its white but green due to the green crap you put in for coolent.

no still woried about the sputtering. The first time I took it out it ran great for about ten minutes then started sputtering. I adjusted the pick up coil then it ran good the rest of the day. The next day I took it out it didnt have the hard hit and did the sputter thing for pretty much the whole day. Never seemed to do this on my road. Tried messing with the pick up again at home and broke the timing plate. I got a good deal on a new flywheel and 200w stator due to an old link I found on the net. So I just installed them thinking this may have been the problem. This brings up to where were at now. I dont know if the switch is the reason it wouldnt start, some time start and run well up the street, and the few times it would only start with throttle pressed, sputter and back fire was due to a bad switch I dont know. Seemed like every twenty minutes I would try to start it in my garage it would do someting differen.

yea its a tether. but it isnt sputtering the ten seconds I get it on the road. on the trail I dont know yet.