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I think my shee is addicted to the mud, I try to stay away from it but it always heads for it no matter how hard I try to steer away. I have no lid and run a 2 stage foam setup. My intake has never seen any mud or anything. That filter has gone through some shit. I've hit holes that have gone over the airbox, that I dont have the drain plug in, and it has to be over the airbox for a second or so, and I've had it suck a little water sometimes, but I know the limits, push those limits, and have never had it stall out on me from it. Just a month ago when the water was higher, theres this river that we cross when its usually drier out. You have to hit it in a V because if you go straight across theres a deep area, and a soot bank down at the bottom of the V to hit and then cut back up. Usually the soot bank is in good site, and your only up to maybe halfway up your engine. That day the bank was under water, I just knew where it was, and went for it, getting down to it was easy with the flow of the water, but coming back up against the flow, my shee was loosing traction from floating a little bit, pipes were under water the whole time.....it was pretty crazy. Worst part was, I made it across, it was a little chilly, I was now soaked, and I had to cross back over it. I've got over 10 grand in my shee and I still hit the mud, water, anything you can throw at me, chances are I'll try it if I think I have a chance. Go for it man, it wont hurt anything. Good tires are the key to mudding though.

Thats why you gotta keep your shit clean, and partition your programs that you're gonna run in one drive, and everything you d/l, or have stored in another drive....you'd be surprised how well your computer will stay running. I've got an HP right now that I got for free with the hard drive going bad. Maxed out the ram at 312 or something like that (forget what it actually gives off the top of my head) and its a little 450 mhz. It still does its job quite well. I'd never buy a HP though.....shits to hard to work on. I had to pull the power supply box out, the cd-rom halfway out.....just to get the little connection from my new sound card up to the cd-rom.....plug and play my ass. Dell's are easy to upgrade, and the newer models are pretty nice. Thats what I'm going to when I upgrade in the next few months. If the rest of your computer needs an upgrade (monitor and such), I'd try to find a nice package, but if you just want a tower, look into a computer show that they'd have going on around your way. You can get stuff for a lot cheaper. They have them here every couple months in the Philly area. I got lucky and got my 21" sony trinitron flatscreen and the rest of my computer from this rich neighborhood that some guy upgraded I guess (I drive a recycling truck). He didnt know you could just pull the hard drive to get rid of all the information, took the cover off the tower, and smashed it all up with a hammer....I was so pissed at that, woulda been a sweet tower. Also look into one of those split keyboards. I dont have one right now, but I miss the one I used to have. It's a little awkward at first, but once you get used to it, its so much more relaxing on your fingers to type, and when typing on a regular keyboard its incredibly uncomfortable, you'd be surprised at the difference.

I agree, go for some custom cut domes, carbs, reeds (dual stage boyesons at the least, and if you get the carbs you need the reeds), HO stator and plate from ricky stator is always nice to brighten up your world (could get some handlebar mount lazerstars to add on) I'd definitely advance that timing and open up that intake for better airflow. And keep a close eye on your compression.....dont ruin that top end with a crank thats gonna let go....its just not worth it.

After you get it all together, do a compression check. If you dont have a compression gauge, go buy one, they are good to have to know how the inside of your engine is wearing and such. Will let you know when its time to go for a rebuild. I check mine after every couple times of riding. If your compression starts to drop, chances are the top end will be on its way out and you'll need to keep a close eye on it for when to rebuild. You should be alright with those domes and that elevation to run premium gas, but do a compression check and at 160 on up I'd start mixing the gas with a higher octane. The higher you go, the more you mix. I'd say at like 170 I'd start running straight race gas.

Funny stuff...... http://www.milkandcookies.com/links/13212/ http://www.milkandcookies.com/links/13211/ http://viral.lycos.co.uk/attachments/1381/...runkMonkey.mpeg Theres an ad that I saw that some bird goes to shit on this ford xfacto's hood or something and the hood pops up real quick killing the bird.....it was funny as shit.....cant find it anywhere though

Both angle shots are cool but I'm partial to the first shot, dont know why, I just like that coming at you look of the shee with a-arms on it. What do you think of throwing the picture on the back of it, and the banshee hq on the sleeve with a little logo on the front over the heart or in the center like the tuning forks. I'll buy 2 or 20.....lets get this shirt thing rolling

There is a left cylinder on ebay right now I believe

here's a free bump for you man

Not a bad starting bid for it, bidder will probably take it. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...&category=43977

I've heard rumors that your petcock is to small to be on a man's quad anyway By the way, let your mom know that she needs to go to the clinic....she made my dick itch.....

ah....the difference between June and July is kinda minimal.....I say we go for what rustyrider in the other thread recommended. End of June, with a raindate 3 weeks later I think it is. I say we have coalfest actually rain or shine. A little rain never hurt anyone, traction would be great, it'd be a little muddy in spots, but heck thats the name of the game. And no dust so we could all rip together. Does the campsite have trees in a configuration that we could get some tarps strung up. Ones to party under and ones to hang clothes under if it does happen to rain all weekend. I can get some big tarps from ollie's up here for pretty cheap, I'll grab some and bring them up. I'm planning on friday as soon as I get done work. Just bring lots of clothes that you know will last you for the whole weekend, riding and chilling clothes. 2 pairs of boots and riding gloves is usually a good idea too. And heck....if it really plans on raining the whole complete weekend and we dont get a chance to get a lot of good riding in, we can always shoot for another fall coalfest to back this one up. Meat, is their anywhere along the strippens that we could ride our quads to to get gas. I know when I ride at Hatfield-McCoy theres gas at either end of the trailheads and you can just pull in, throw premeasured oil in your tank and fill her up. Or will a tank of gas get us here, there, and back again before having to fuel up. I'll have an IMS so i'm not to worried, but others may be using up some fuel pretty good. I'm sure a gas trip wouldnt be far off either, just thinkin of ideas. This is gonna be a great time.

A couple years back in my 85 tpi trans am (one of the very very first tpi's out there) that was in mint condition that I got off my uncle and was out waxing the thing every weekend..... Some guy in a plymouth reliant did the same exact thing to me, pulled out right in front of me, didnt have time to hit the brake and hit him dead center between the doors with the drivers side front of my car. If I didnt swerve to the right I woulda hit right into his door and he'd be one hurting pup, even with that, they still charged the case 80-20 at fault in my favor because of where the hit was. Just plain sucks, and they totaled my trans by 250 dollars. Bought it back for 400 and sold it to my parents neighbor for a grand and he's fixed it all up....but it has a reconstructed title now. Good luck man. Are the witnesses names taken down and such? The accident report will be the deciding factor for the most part in a court case. They can do inspections of how bad your vehicles are messed up to see how fast you were going, but for the most part, they just go by skidmarks. They dont like going through all the work of vehicle inspections, and probably wont if the guy lives, but if he dies it'll be a whole new ballgame. It's completely not your fault....but I'm sure they'll try to find a way that it was. Stupid shit like since you were driving a truck, you should of been defensively aware of some old person that might just pull out in front of you. It sucks...but people are ruthless.

Not sure, didnt get the tank yet. Its that used one off of zilladude. He might know.

Lookin for some beat up cheap front plastics that still have the front fenders on them. Gonna cut them for an IMS tank and dont wanna ruin my good plastics. Any color, doesnt matter. Also need a petcock for the tank. thanks

yeah, it happens. Ended up getting a complete running engine so I figured I'd part this one out. Pm me bansheeboy, and we'll work something out.

does the RZ have a different transmission ratio? Only way I would think that you'd want a different trans is for different ratios for the gears......

when you say blew a hole in the top of the piston and the rings are fried, do you mean that their is a hole burned in the top of the piston, or a chunk missing on the side of the piston and the rings are all melted into the piston? If it was a burned hole....it was detonation. If it looks like theres a piece of the top missing, and where the rings go into the piston are all bent up/ piece of a ring missing/piston skirt damage/anything to that degree, chances are that you had play in your piston and caught a ring on the exhaust port and thats what did the damage. The gray on your sparkplug is from the piston material. Like blacksmith said, take the cylinders to a machine shop, (I believe stock bore is 64mm), find out what size you need to clean up the cylinders, go get those pistons and bring them back so he can bore to the size of the pistons.

Bump...still firm.....going on ebay soon

damn dude....your's got busted up a lot more than mine did. I dug my rear grab bar in going up through second gear and my right rear started digging in and started cartwheeling my shee. Only ended up bending the grab bar, and bending my upper right a-arm. I figured why spend 60 bucks on an a-arm when I could get +2's and shocks all the way around for a grand Looks like you got a little more damage done to yours......just having some great luck as of late huh? *edit* Just went back and looked at your first pic. Is your rear plastic still bolted onto the subframe.....its lookin kind of tweaked if you look at it compared to where the rad cover is.

Take the cylinders off....consists of removing plastic, tank, carbs, and pipes (drain coolant first, dont forget to open up those little bolts on the side of your cylinders). And then pop the cylinders off....might need a rubber mallet to break them loose a little bit. Back the head off from number 10 down to number 1 in 5lb increments to reduce risk of warping the head. Take the cylinders to a machine shop and find out how much they need to be bored out. Get a piston kit (usually 150 bucks shipped from many online and magazine companies, dont go with NBS distributing, formerly Recreation Unlimited, horrible company) Take the cylinders and pistons into the machine shop and have them bore the cylinders to the pistons. Check play in crank (clymers manual or the online pdf on here has specifications), and put the pistons, with rings on, wristpin, wristpin bearings, and circlips back on with arrows correct way, and a rag over the crankcase so you dont drop anything down in there (should have a rag over at all times including taking the pistons off the rods). Throw the cylinders on, torque them down to 20ft lbs. in 5 lb increments, Throw the head on to 20 ft lbs in increments and throw the rest of it back together and you should be good to go. Do a search on proper break in techniques. I use the honda 2 stroke oil thats non synthetic (honda 2r I believe) and run that for about 3 gallons to seat the rings properly and get the most out of the engine, before switching to a synthetic/synthetic blend oil. Do a search on proper break in on here....its been discussed many times. It's easy.....only thing you need is a socket, extension, socket wrench, 12 mm wrench (I believe those are the nuts), a screwdriver and pliers and you should be good....just remember to tighten down your nuts in 5 lb increments to 20 ft lbs and you'll be good to go..... If you have any mechanical skills at all....you dont need a clymer manual to do a top end rebuild.....I think I could do it in my sleep. Total cost when said and done including the oil, and gas will be about 250bucks to get you up and running again....more if you want a vito's kit.

About a year and a half ago they started cracking down really bad at the port. I was down there with my buddy on his warrior and this guy on a small utility atv had the quad on top of him waving to my buddy to come help him out. My buddy went over to help him and it was a Park Ranger/Statie that nabbed him for a 300 dollar fine and a swift kick on the ass to get out of there and not come back or he was taking his quad on the spot. I went down there 1 time afterward, and they chased us out of there. Saw tickets all over everyones vehicles in the normal parking areas. We cut our way back into the woods and didnt get fined. I've heard rumors that since then that they've opened it into a pay to play type place, but you need a membership that is some crazy amount for the year. Have never been back down that way to check it out since so I dont know. Let me know whats up with it

yeah, I love my infared.....Just lean back and have it on my leg, or couch or anywhere I wanna use it. And you dont have to worry about cleaning them.....Just dont drop it alot....they tend to break if you do that.....mines held up to a beating pretty good so far though. Make sure you get one with a click roller between the 2 buttons....makes scrolling a million times easier

I'm sure you can find a machine shop in driving distance......any machine shop would do it for around 40 bucks a cylinder I'm sure.

Pop a few ibuprofen before you go riding, it'll thin your blood and reduce fatigue in your arms. If you havent been able to ride in a while your muscles need to readjust to it as well

When I go to put my head on, either in pieces, or all together, it always wants to drop one of the domes down when I'm working it down the studs. Only way I can think of to keep them up is to put it all on at once with sparkplugs in it and have some sort of bridge going between the plugs. Anyone else have any ideas?