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bump: cases, shift star, cylinders, and flywheel are gone. Rest of the engine is still here. I have 3 or 4 reed cage sets and a couple good boots laying around here somewhere as well I believe.

Got a set of FMF Gnarly's with the engine I bought. Chrome plated and have a little bit of surface rust on the inside of the pipes (unseen side), and come with powercore 2 silencers. I will polish them up with that rust polish stuff that makes rust disappear, and they will be as good as new. 300 bucks + shipping. Firm on the price, savings of over 150 from new.

To break them loose I always use a half inch socket wrench with an extension and use a jack stand to support the extension evenly with the nut......then I give it a good stomp and it usually breaks loose. You may need someone to hold the other tire....even in gear to get it to stop spinning.

you can either do the slot thing, or grab a 13T for the front to run for a week or so. It'll stretch the chain enough that you'll be able to throw the 14 back on.

you should do a leakdown test BEFORE you tear it down and see if that was the problem. Chances are it is since you just threw that setup on. I dont have a single carb setup but I'm sure someone on here can verify that those jetting settings arent gonna seize up an engine that quickly. If anything you might've just been a little lean. Hell, I've been a little lean for a whole weekend and my engine ran like a top. Leaner the meaner they say.....

I got an ironman backpack at walmart that is pretty sweet. It's not that big, and comes with straps for around your waist and chest. It comes with those little earphones for a cd player that come right out of the shoulder straps..... I pulled those suckers out, mounted my microphone right in the shoulder strap, and have the helmet camera coming out of the other one. It's a pretty sweet setup. I'm gonna have to get an IMS tank for Hatfield-McCoy next year cause I cant carry the helmetcam and 2.5 gallons on my back at the same time....its just not happening again.

I'm running boyeson dual stage reeds. Improved my throttle response greatly....those stock reeds suck. I prefer the regular reeds over the carbon fiber. They flex easier and faster, tend to rip instead of break when they wear out, and burn up in the engine faster if they get into the engine.

I still have my catch tube on the bottom of my airbox, I just cut the bottom of it off so water can still exit it pretty quickly but wont get in as fast. They make one way valves for them but I forget where to get them.

wb boon, havent been getting home from work early enough to get a hold of you at all, pm me your address so I can get these stars out to you. On a side note, I wouldnt use nuts on the end of the axle to get it out, You'd have a much harder time finding the die for the axle thread that you just messed up than a socket that you can throw against where the hub seats to beat on.

I've got a tranny, good shape, could use bearings and I dont have the shift star for it anymore that I'll sell you for 150 + shipping from 18960. all the forks, fork rods, shift drum included that are in good shape

you got quite a good deal mooney, would like to find like that nowadays for that price. Prices on ebay have skyrocketed lately for banshee engine parts. That is a bit high priced for a transmission setup though

yeah, run a dual stage foam, rip that airbox lid off, rejet.....and never look back.....well except for holes that are deeper than the airbox. Been running that way for over 2 years now with no problems.

stock shocks, aftermarket shocks? Ive got a buddy that has some shocks and an oil cooler that he might want to part with....I'll get back to you.

why would you trade a 450 for them if you could buy both of them for cheaper than what a 450 goes for. It's kinda funny, I'm looking for both the items you are selling, my piggybank is just tapped at the moment.

zilladude: got the shift drum, but the shift star is gone to the modified world. Let me know if you still need just the drum, or any other parts of the tranny. Cheezehead: I've got a couple stator covers: one off the engine I just got thats perfect, one that is on my original engine that I threw a chain and it cracked the rear of the stator cover (all there and with a little miracle glue you could make it look perfect), and the one from this engine that I'm parting out that has 2 of the ribs that go over the sprocket cut out of it. Let me know Demsy: I've got like 4 or 6 boots laying around from various engines and top ends. What are they worth to ya?

lol, my pair of realtors had a slice in it that one part of it had 3 plugs in it, then their was a little tire rubber, and then another 6 plugs to fill up the rest of the slice. That sucker held air the rest of the weekend....dont know how, but it did. And dont even get me started on those front stock tires that came on it. I had more plugs in those things than I had rubber left from the tire probably.

yeah, it looks like he had a pretty nice shee going there. It's a shame to see it get torn apart. On to bigger and better things I guess. He's a cool guy to talk to, and looks like he took good care of the quad.

the funny part is that the only difference between that engine and my engine is the timing plate and the different kind of reeds. Cant wait to throw some advance into the engine and see how shee reacts.

only thing I have to say is that a shee is great in any situation if you do the right mods to it. One thing I regret about them is their frame geometry. It is completely outdated and is a compromise between all sorts of riding (which is a good thing I guess) I ride woods, some of them tight, and some of them open. On the tight trails, even with my quad set up well for them, the only thing that keeps me even with a stock 400ex is the power output of my shee. I know when me and my buddy switch quads instead of me having to manhandle the shee through the woods, its a breeze on the 400ex. On jumps they arent as balanced as some of the new 4strokes, and the 250R. Now you throw the shee engine in and 250R geometry frame and its a whole new ballgame, You're a heck of a force to be reckoned with, have the balance in the air, and can tear up trails like nothing else. For woods type riding and mx type riding, the geometry of the shee lacks what it could be, but the power of the engine makes up for it. The shee frame was just designed for many different types of riding and thrown into one basic package. I'd love to get my hands on a rolling chassis 250R setup for the shee.

You guys think I got a good deal on this? I wanted to get a spare K&N and figured what the heck, why not buy the engine and pipes as well. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...8&ed=1078390270 I'm gonna pull the timing plate and throw it on the engine in my shee, and leave this as a backup that will probably see a stroker thrown in it when I get the spare change to do it up nice. I'm gonna polish the pipes up and throw them back on ebay, gonna try to get 300-350 bucks for them, and the K&N, if anyone wants it...I'll sell it to you for cheap.... If anyone wants some good pipes for like 100 bucks less than what they cost.....lemme know before I throw them on ebay.

how much of the tranny do you need? I've got the whole setup, gears, shift linkage, shift forks, fork shafts, shift drum. Only thing I dont have anymore for the tranny is the shift star. Give me a pm and we'll work something out.

he was taking an instructors course for skiing all last week. He could only pop on for like 3-5 minutes with all the work he had backed up at work. He'll get back to you, dont worry

Look for one that has a toolbox in the front/nose on it that will deflect air and such up away from the quads. I've had many a time driving quads up to a riding area and they would be covered with road salt/ dirt/ grime to the point that you almost dont want to ride them. Took my buddies with the front deflector on it and the quads were 90% cleaner when we got to our riding area. If you dont get one with siderails you can just use a regular ramp, 2x6's to load them on sideways easily.

I've got offset rims and my spindles are sitting pretty, I dont launch thirty feet in the air, if I did I might think twice about insetting my rims, but its good for now (eventually I'm gonna go with inset rims, just to reduce width in the trails, and still have suspension)

That's what playnsand was getting at. If you use the 795 series pistons and the correct rod, you could get away with not having to mod the head or run a plate, but the sideload on the pistons would be greater, and decrease engine life dramatically. Even worse if you used a stock piston, and even a shorter rod. It'd rev out hella fast though. Best setup to run is a LR stoker (the LR will decrease the added sideload) and 795 series pistons with a head mod done or you could run the plate. You dont need to do porting right away if you you just blew a crank and dont have the money for porting, but it is recommended and wont run to its potential until you do get the portwork done. This is for a standard lr stroker, when you start getting in the higher mm strokers you get into a whole new book of rules