.

I'm thinking your sweet shee aint sounding to sweet.

sorry, couldnt get the numbers all situated, first one is machining cost, second is parts cost.

FOR SALE: 406 CI CHEVY SMALL BLOCK ASSEMBLY, Rated HP 525 / Rated Torque 485 Lbs. All Machine Work Performed By: Radar Corporation Custom Competition Engines. Havertown, PA Have Receipts. Components Ready for Assembly. Components & Machining Pricing BLOCK Machining Cost Parts Cost Degrease $48.00 Mag. Inspection $60.00 Bore Block .030 Over & Hone with Plate $148.00 Plug Deck Holes $24.00 $12.75 Machine Deck $64.00 Install Cam Bearings $32.00 $46.00 Install Freeze Plugs $18.00 $21.00 Total Block $394.00 $58.75 CRANK (forged that he already had) Machining Cost Parts Cost Clean $15.00 Mag. Inspection $40.00 Grind & Polish .010 Under with Index $175.00 Total Crank $230.00 $0.00 RODS Machining Cost Parts Cost R & R SPS Rod Bolts $24.00 $55.00 Recondition Rods $96.00 Bronze Bush Small End for Floating Pins. $125.00 $24.00 Total Rods $245.00 $79.00 PISTONS Machining Cost Parts Cost Machine Manley Forged Piston Domes for 13.5 to 1 Compression $48.00 $550.00 Total Pistons $48.00 $550.00 HEADS Machining Cost Parts Cost Bare Double Camel Hump Chevy Heads with Extensive Competition Port Work $0.00 $750.00 Clean Heads $20.00 Install Bronze Valve Guides $80.00 $64.00 NHRA Valve Job $75.00 Resurface Heads $48.00 Assemble Head Components $32.00 Pressure Check Heads $64.00 16 Manley Valves $177.60 16 Crower Springs $56.00 Steel Retainers $41.00 32 Machined Steel Locks $24.00 Total Heads $319.00 $1,112.60 OTHER Machining Cost Parts Cost Crane Cam $153.00 Crane Lifters $64.70 Cloyes Double Roller Chain & Gears Timing Set $49.25 Balance Rotating Assembly $150.00 Degree Cam & Check Piston to Valve Clearance$72.00 Total Other $ 222.00 $266.95 Note: Sell price includes, not listed but containsTotals$1,458.00$2,067.30 Block, Crank and Rods Total All$3,525.30 Sell$1,995.00, but to me 1 grand Its all in pieces still. Its an engine that my dad painted and did final prepwork to the block like 5 to 7 years ago. The guy bought everything to put it together, only thing it needs is rings, a pan, intake and valve covers. The guy just never put it together and he had a 454 race block that my dad wanted and would only sell together. It's going in this: There's a mild 350 in there right now, tci streetfighter th350 trans, and 12 bolt 4:10 eaton posi rear thats good up to 800 horse. I just rebuilt the rear and have over a grand into that, but I'm either gonna ditch it for a shortened 9 bolt or have it shortened for when I get a ladder bar tub setup kit. It's getting a frame off rebuild before the 406 gets dropped in, just gotta find a garage to be able to do it in for a year or so. Can you say sunoco 118 and an extra 100 shot of nitrous

alright man, just figured I'd let you know I have them. Had a set a while back (I think were on stock bore) that I put up when I was selling all those engine parts, sold them for 225 shipped in like half an hour of putting them up. I probably could've got more for them on ebay, but I needed money quick for a spare engine I was buying.

got a set, started to polish the outside of one cylinder, other one hasnt been started yet. Need to be bored .40 over, comes with 1 wiseco pro-lite, rings and wrist pin. Will let go for 250, not interested in selling for less than that, always good to have back up top ends laying around.

If you plan on rolling it again, go get yourself some cheap 20 dollar bars, and dont tighten you controls tight, just tight enough that they dont move around on you. I'd much rather bend a set of 20 dollar bars than a steering stem and other parts. If you dont bend the bars, that stress is going somewhere else.

contact burgard about it if you cant get it dislodged. See if they'll send you a new one with a shipping label to send the other one back.

isnt the stock filter and no filter at all basically the same thing?

what do you ride more of, mostly road or mostly sand? If you ride road to get to sand then your want a good tire that works in the sand thats still road rideable to be able to get there. Now if you do a lot of back road riding, and go off into the sand about half and half your gonna want a different tire. I'd recommend some 20" blackwaters. Check them out, have a good pattern to hook in sand, and arent to bad on the road. A little bumpy at low speeds but nothing to write home about kidney damage.

only thing the lead is bad for is catalytic converters, 0xygen sensors, and newer style valves that have a tighter seal than valves of the old days. Since our banshee has none of these, you've got nothing to worry about.

its not really bad for it if done correctly. You gotta let off the gas a little bit to make the transmission "float" so to speak.

dont lie to him itsaripper, you cant clean the stock filter.....they are disposable filters. You just throw them away and buy an aftermarket setup.

you should sue for defamation of character.....we'll never look at you with respect again.....

if you think that little trike is fun, try riding a 200x, 350x or 250R. There like 10 times as fun. Trust me, I've been playing with 3wheelers as long as I could climb up onto one. I've had a 125, 185s, 185m, 200m, 200x (like 7-10 of them now),350x,250R and those are just the hondas. If you really want a 3wheeler to keep to play around on, at least stay with something that says 200 on it. The other ones are alright, but just dont have that seat of the pants funness that the bigger boys have. Do what you want, any 3wheeler is better than no threewheeler, and they are all fun to play on, just giving my opinion on my experience with them, and fun factors I've had with them.

I got 3rd dibs. Send pics to [email protected]

I bet you'd be quick on the draw with one of those suckers.

is it a 125M or a 200M? I'd say you got an alright deal. I've come acrossed my fair share of 200x's for 100 to 150 dollars that were in running condition, put another hundred or 2 into them and sold them for 600 to 800 every time. I've had like 7 -10 of them now. Good threewheelers and a bunch of fun. I just sold one that I got for 150, put a new front brake system that I already had, throttle assembly I already had, newer rear shock I already had, used tires that were nicer than the ones on there, and sold it for 750 bucks. It still needed rear axle bearings and such, the guy was this older guy that rode like 3 or 4 times a year with his buddies and just wanted something to play with. If your looking for a 3wheeler to keep, I'd go with a 200x, 350x or 250R, from worst to best. Lots of parts for them and they are all good threewheelers. If I were you I'd dump as little money as possible into it and make a profit on it, and continue either doing this with cheap 3wheelers till you make enough investment to get a 3wheeler that is a true good time, or just make some money off it and go looking for a good 250R or 350x. The 200x isnt far behind with a hopped up engine.

so you got past the green wall moose?.....Thats where I was up to, working on that, and my frickin g/f closed the window....I was so pissed.....I dont want to go back through that smiley face door again.

take a compression tester with you, if its below 120, its starting to wear itself out. A good bargaining chip to lower the price. It'd cost about 250 to rebuild the top end so see if you could drop it 200 with that. I bought a pretty good engine with a timing plate, and a coolhead, including carbs, fmf gnarly pipes, and k&N filter for 1200. I'd say you'd be getting a pretty good deal. Bring about 1500 US (whatever that is in canadian) with you and see if you can walk away with it. And if you cant, just walk away. Your gonna wanna put a-arms on it eventually, (maybe a new a-arm frame depending on that frame) etc etc. All said and done its a good price to get something to start with. By the time you have 5 grand into it, it'll be one badass machine.

are the shredders new? My holeshots did decently there when they were brand new, but I had quite some trouble getting up some of the climbs with them. If it stays dry you should be alright. Last time I went down I used Mud Sharks and they did really good, but I'd say your best bet for a tire down there would be some 20" blackwaters. Make sure you bring plugs, and I'd invest in a nac's beadbreaker. Probably the best tool I have. It makes changing tires a cinch. I banged up a rim pretty good when I was down there, pulled the tire off it, and beat it back and its good as new. My mudsharks are 4ply and I got a puncture in the sidewall on the first ride on them down there. It's some rough riding in parts. I believe the one trail on the rockhouse trails is trail 96 or something to that degree. It's the east one in the middle of the trails where theres 2 or 3 black trails. We hit it from North to South luckily. Theres a climb on there thats got a 3 ft deep water runoff washout on the one side of it thats like 3 ft wide, and barely enough room for your fourwheeler on the rest of the width of the trail. It's all windy and on probably a 60-70% grade. We went down it instead of up it, grinding our skidplates with 2 wheels down in the washout, foot up against the wall on the other side of the washout. Every time you wanted to go down some you'd just push on the wall with your foot and let go and you'd slide down some more. It was pretty hairy in some spots. All I can remember is that I was thinking that I was glad that I wasnt trying to go up it instead. We stayed at this paradise Island place, its in a great location, just a shithole, its inbetween the North and South entrances of rockhouse on that road to the east of the trail. It was like a 5-10 minute rip on the road to the north entrance, and about a 15 minute rip from the bottom end. Your only supposed to go like 15 mph or something like that on the roads, but I revved out through 6 more than my fair share. Shit, they dont care, its the only business that area will probably ever see. You're in for good times man, and there was some shee's there that we're pretty hooked up drag racing, I've got a roll of film somewhere with all the pics. I was going on 53 hours with no sleep at that point so it was all just a blur.

mine was 5329 out the door I believe just outside Philly here. They have them marked here for 5189 "no hassle prices" all the time. I got mine cheaper cause it was a leftover, but i'm sure if you jumped back and forth from the 2 dealers around here that dont have no hassle prices you could get one for cheaper.

Those plastics make a shee look like a fookin platypus from the front. I just want someone to make a rear plastic that is symmetrical on both sides and not all nice and smooth lines. I like my stock hard curves in the shee plastic.

I've got a set of FMF Gnarly's with silencers. Good shape, little surface rust on the inside as well, a little on the skinny silencer tubing that is under the rear plastic too. No dents or anything, let me know if you want to swap or work some sort of deal out. I'm in need of a +1 stem and have been wanting an antivibe for a good time now.

the trike is in canada right? If it wasnt such a far drive I'd be interested in it.

you do 20 shipped for the tie rods?