.

I'd say just go with the pro-lite's man. 150 bucks shipped to your door, you cant beat it. They are forged, and lightweight which will allow your engine to rev out faster. I'm sure the vito's pistons are also nice, but are half of a port job more.

I got some chrome paint you can use.....it'd probably save you some money

man, I couldnt live without a nice thick crossbar pad.....nothing like kicking back laying on your shee with your head on the crossbar pad.....killing a cold one out in the middle of nowhere that you just rode to.

what kind of charger could you get for a case of beer? how about 2 cases of beer? I could definitely use 2 nice turbo's.....hell I'd throw in an extra case or two for good measure

The big ol 2 stroke diesel's had turbo's on them....and those suckers ran.....I'm sure if some of those guys that built those engines were still around and could sit down and engineer a setup....I'm sure they could get a banshee turbo'd setup to work quite well and reliably. They make superchargers for carbed engines that its a box that encloses the whole carb, and air is spun directly into the carb, I think the banshee superchargers that are in the works are going on this same idea.....havent seen any info on it lately....just remember hearing about it a while back.

I have the stock arrested pipes

all from a 98 shee, looking for about ebay prices for them, will have more stuff after I look through everything and see what I need to keep. Check what they are going for on ebay and offer a decent price if interested. All will be going on ebay sometime next week. Going away for the weekend, will be back on monday. Looking for chassis bolts, headlight brackets to weld to frame (mine are broke), lower motor mounts and I'm sure other things as well. will have a set of jugs, stock porting (believe stock bore, have to take measurements) Full set of 98 plastics, dark grey front (cut) and rear, yellow tank and grille. If I split them up I may keep the rears if anyone is interested in others set of cases a seat maybe (little tear on edge near gas tank) transmission (dont know condition yet) and a set of fatty headers maybe, painted black, good condition, no silencers though. twist throttle (no cable) trade for thumb throttle stator and plate flywheel

alright, I can wait. I will take any and all chassis bolts, plastic bolts, I believe I'll need the front fender brackets also. I'll make a list for you of all the stuff I need.

I've got the twist assembly but no cable for it......wanna trade for the thumb?

need lower mounts and I'm also gonna need all sorts of chassis bolts, motor mount bolts, plastic nuts,bolts, and screws. I also need the screws for the key plastic, air box rear bolts and probably others. Just got a rolling chassis and need all the hardware to throw the engine in there. It's got the front motor mounts still on it. I'll get more info exactly what nuts and bolts I need as I go along. It's a true roller though, so it shouldnt be much more than the engine bolts Forgot to add, its got a twist throttle on it, and I'm looking for a thumb. It doesnt have the cable for it though. Decent shape.

bsb....you're a frickin idiot....no more.....but probably much less as well....I'm not even gonna get into it with you because you're not worth it..... Talk to another lawyer got1.....with a bill of sale it should not be on you in any way. You didnt receive stolen property to your knowledge or have any idea that it was stolen....thats the only issue they could push...that it was a kid that works for you and you "knew" that it was stolen. Other than that they are pushing all these negotiations with you because they dont have a strong case. Definitely talk to another lawyer....call a bunch of them and see what they think, what they can do for you.

hey brokestonedbiker......what's your address....I've got some vacation time and like 50 keys on my keychain.......any requests for pretty pictures? How bout I scratch I'm Gay across the hood......its just a car though right?

anyone?

figures....I'll be at a wedding

I got a 185S bottom end (centrifugal clutch) with a 11.5:1 compression top end that has no hours on it. Had it in a 200x and the intake got a crack underneath it that we couldnt see.....so it was sucking air and we couldnt get it started no matter how hard we tried.....I didnt notice it until I parted out the 3 wheeler. I've also got a 200M bottom end I believe it is with a 200x top end on it. Give me some offers....the new top end itself is worth a few bucks....

Just got some delta 2's and 1 petal on each of the cages is sitting open just a hair (enough that you can see light through). Can I just flip the reed over and it should seat again right? They only have like 10 hours on them. 2nd question, I guess you need a really short allen wrench to get in there to take them apart, what size is it and is it a special allen wrench or anything? Thanks for any help

how are rad valves restrictive?

lol....I wish I woulda seen this post earlier. Tinfoil is the definitely the way to go with salmon on the grill. Wrap that shit up and throw some butter and seasonings in there for good measure and it'll come out damn good.

what zilla said....550 from ronnies.....150 dollar discount on a used frame.....seems about right. Little steep for ebay prices though

I hear ya man. Even if it doesnt work out for this time, hopefully they'll be coming up with a good time for the fall to have another coalfest and we'll have a good amount of time to set up a shirt and do it good. I'm sure meat can get some good hi res shots of his shee.....even if I have to come up there with a digital camera. Not to mention their should be some good shots from this coalfest as well. I like your shee and all, and I'd still buy 2 shirts off ya, but it kinda takes away from the coalfest aspect of it a little bit not being meat's shee. Just in my mind anyway. I dont speak for others. I'll buy any shirt with a banshee on it though

just to back him up, I bought his t-maxx off him and he takes good care of his stuff. Was good to deal with as well. (just wish my damn piston kit would get here already so I can run this thing, have everything else ready and charged.....just waiting)

go to a honda dealership. Honda makes a non synthetic 2 stroke oil. Honda 2r or something like that. Run like 2-3 gallons of that and then switch to the oil you plan on using all the time. Do a search, I posted about the oil before and remembered the name back then. A builder on here also told me about the oil in one of the threads. The problem with breaking in a synthetic is that it is to slippery of an oil and will not let the rings and cylinder walls create a seal the way it should. It doesnt let them wear correctly. The cross hatches you get from honing are supposed to wear away and form to your rings, as the outer edge of your rings is supposed to wear, and form to the cylinder. Thats why you hear people saying or you see pics of cylinders that have 20-30 plus hours on them with the crosshatches still in the cylinder walls. They arent supposed to be there. It may let the engine wear for a longer period of time maybe, but your not getting the full potential out of the engine.

yeah, I lost my 2 in the front, put the ones that come in the frame for the stock pipes in there.....lost them 2.....2001 model....Just got another seat that has 2 on them still....those bitches are getting silconed. forgot to add, I put some duct tape on the piece that slides under the frame to tighten it up after I lost the rubber things and it worked good for a while

wal-mart has an almost exact match, its one of the silver's. I forget which one though. You can notice it if your looking at it from a foot away and actually looking for the touch up spots, (its just, just off, seriously, you cant notice it at all). It's in the car section, they have the touch up brush thingies and spray can. I can look the next time I'm there (or the toolbox where the shee is) whichever comes first.

why blast them? Just go to wal-mart and get some duplicolor paint stripper in a spray can. Stuff works wonders. Sprayed mine, let them sit for 5-10 minutes and the paint basically fell off from running tap water, used a toothbrush on the tight spots I couldnt rub with my finger.