jeepman380

I'm building an extended swingarm and I was just wondering if I can use all the stock parts off the old one and put on the new one like shock and shock linkage? Do you have to buy an aftermarket shock or can I just get my stock one rebuilt or revalved? I'm also trying to decide if I should go +4 or +6. What chain size would I have to get for +4 or +6?

The reason i'm asking ya'll this is cause i'm going to Wyotech and after Christmas break coming up i'm gonna be starting a chassis fabrication class so i'll be working on some sort of project and I wanted to do this to try it out and see how it turns out. After all my training i'll have to skills needed to make this and all the tools to do it also. I'm also interested in making some a-arms and a swingarm for this drag banshee and some +2 or +3 a-arms and a +4 swingarm for my duner banshee.

Does anyone know where I can get plans or any information on how to make a Banshee drag frame from scratch or how to make one from a stock frame? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

Has anyone made their own a-arms or swingarm from scratch? If so do you have any measurements or plans to do so? I'm currently going to Wyotech and in a few months i'm going to a chassis fab course and i'll be able to get my hands on any tool that I need to make them. I was just wondering if anyone has any measurements or maybe a web site of information so I can get an idea how to make my own. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

I just got a 2004 Polaris Sportsman 500 H.O. ATP and I just got it broke in and it's time to change the oil for the first time but i'm sceptic about putting that 5w-0 shit that Polaris recommends putting in. Would it hurt if I used like Mobil 1 10w-30 or a higher weight oil instead of the 5w-0 stuff? Thanks.

I'm about to drop some money into a Sidewinder setup. They say they last up to 10 times longer than regular sprockets, and their chains are virtually unbreakable and the don't stretch hardly at all so you don't have to adjust them. Has anyone seen their new Steath series sprocket....lifetime guarantee, but I imagine they are gonna be somewhere around $150-$200.

I have a 20 fin on the pump side and a 25 fin on the return line.

I had a FMF one and it was ok untill it blew. Then I got a Dyna and I love it. Love how you can choose from 4 different curves. Or if you want to program your own curve you can buy software and make your own...never tried that though.

Between polishings and after I wash my shee I spray some WD-40 on my chrome T-5s and wipe them down to keep them from rusting and water beads right off them.

Well instead of going through all the trouble for that you could just buy a controller that is made for PC.

I'm trying to decide which type of a-arms to get. Should I get a set with ball joints or heim joints? Which is stronger? I would think the ball joints would be better since they have a boot over them that protects them and keeps them lubricated; unlike the heim which is open to the elements. Some required spindle reaming some don't. What does reaming the spindles mean? Any help would be great. Thanks

Found these a-arms on ebay. They look pretty awsome. Does anyone have a set of these? I wonder if they are any good? Wicked A-Arms

You're not supposed to polish anything involving the intake cause the rough surfaces help atomize the fuel mixture and mix it up better. The exhaust ports can be polished on the other hand cause it helps keep them clean and flows a bit better. What you should of done instead of polishing the cages was port them out a bit or did you do that also? I really couldn't tell from the pic.

Gonna be headin' down in June sometime, don't know when but might be that weekend.

If you added VF2's and didn't rejet that could be your problem. Might want to go up a jet size or two or raise the needle one clip.

Noss head no questions asked. As for dome size, you proly want to get something like 18cc or 19cc domes to gain back some compression that you loose when you get it ported.

Yeah get the Ricky Stator one. It's alot cheaper, works the same, and it's not like you will be able to see it anyway so it doesn't matter it's is purty or not.

Hey man, where do you live in atchison? I'm only like 30 minutes from you. I live out by the Sac & Fox Casino.

For just all around duneing I would get a set of V-blade paddles. They don't hook up as well as straight paddles but they turn way better than straight blades. Might want to try out some Sand Skate II's or Skat Trak Edges. I have a pair of Skat Trak Edges for my shee and i'm pretty modded myself but I haven't had the chance to try them out yet, but going to soon here within the next month.

Could be a fouled plug, rich condition, or weak spark. Put a fresh pair of plugs in and if that's not it check for a rich condition.

I heard that AV gas is bad. Don't know why. I think cause it doesn't have any added chemicals or lubricants like VP adds to their gas so it really isn't as good I don't think. I don't know where you buy your gas from but around here I can get it for $3.50 a gallon which I think is cheap, but maybe i'm wrong cause i've never seen it any cheaper around here.

I seen one of those machines on American Chopper when they were making the Dixie Chopper custom bike. It's pretty amazing how far we've come from working with metal from fireplaces and using a hammer and an anvil to shooting water out of a nozzle at mach 3 or 4 and cutting metal to thicknesses of around 10 inches.

Tried that...all I got out of that was a sliced in the top of my hand.

I've done all the grinding to the shock mounts and to the bottom of the shock and I have it jacked all the way up and the a-arms are free moving and I got the top of the shock mounted but the bottom is like 2 inches away from the mount and won't budge. It needs compressed but I don't have any tools or anything to do that. What does anyone suggest?

Did that still won't work. Bottom still won't clear, keeps getting hung up.