Master of Faster

Pull the tire off the wheel and beat the wheel back into shape as best you can with a rubber mallet. When you put the tire back on make sure everything is completely clean and then pour some gas on the both the beads of the tire. Makes the rubber really slick and easy to get the tire on and then usually seals up well. When you seat the bead leave alot of air in the tire for a few hours before letting the air out to where it needs to be. Should do the trick.

Its not that simple, even with the gearing necessary to go 100+ you need the HP to pull it. A piped shee otherwise stock will not do 100mph end of story, even with huge gearing and miles of miles of room. He could get maybe a couple more mph by gearing up but thats it before running out of HP, somewhere around 80 mph is going to be close for most piped banshees.

I've ridden them all, the Banshee chassis is the most comfortable for dune crusing. The 450's are cramped and the Raptor is too tall in stock trim. Of course the Banshee may not be the best handling but you're talking about putting a streetbike motor in it that weighs a ton more than any of the stock motors, so its pretty much gonna handle like crap no matter what chassis you put it in.

Thats a TON of oil, I run 1 pint to 5 gallons, 40:1 and that has been plenty for both Banshees.

From an air/fuel standpoint a higher ratio like 80:1 will actually richen your mixture over 40:1.

You just gotta find what you like and run with it, everybody has their own opinion on oils and they're own stories about how good/bad they are. I have a Vmax-4 snowmobile that has 11,700 miles on it exclusively on Yamalube oil, never been rebuilt top end or bottom, still has same compression as the day it left the factory and never a crank problem.

I buy it buy the case, I believe its $120-130 for a case of 24 pints. I get a 20% AMA discount so it runs me about $100 for 24 pints. Roughly $4 a pint, I know I can buy quarts cheaper but the pints are just really convienient especially when I have to fill up out on the trail they are easy to carry and use.

I buy Yamalube 2-R in pints, makes it super easy to mix. 1 pint to 5 gallons of gas, 40:1. I have always have excellent luck with Yamalube so why change. My ported motor with wisecos has a very hard year and half on it and you can still see crosshatch in the cylinders. My buddies Banshee is on its 6th year I believe and still runs awesome with Yamalube at 40:1. I don't see any reason to switch.

Its all stock, no reason to screw with the needles as long as they are in their stock position.

You know that how? Have you tried it? Just removing the snorkel from a stock Banshee makes it run noticeably better, enough that you can feel the difference, and enough to have an effect on your jetting.

A good trail port and get the head shaved, you will have all the bottom end you'll ever need. Keep the stock gearing for the tight trails.

Make sure to take the snorkel off the airbox lid, run your gas at 40:1, and switch to a K&N filter and the 200 mains will be perfect. I always thought the stock jetting was a little rich too, but you really shouldn't be having problems, it may be wise to do a compression test also.

TTT for a good deal, just not what I'm looking for.

I run 15/41 in the sand with 8 paddle haulers, still pulls 2nd gear out of the hole, but with so many guys here running lower gearing with the same mods maybe I am missing something I might have to try stock gearing again.

You have a PM

This is what I run too, tried three or four different sets of aftermarket grips but I like the factory Yamaha stuff the best. Even have a few friends with other brands running the Yamaha stuff now after riding my bike.

You have a PM.

You need a flag ($25), Michigan ORV sticker ($16.25), a day pass to the dunes is $6 a day or $24 for a yearly pass. You have to get parking lot vouchers if you need to park in the lot at the dunes during the weekend, they are free and available starting at 9pm the night before, once you get your voucher you can only get in the parking lot if there is room and during the time period the voucher is for (11:00- 12:00 for example) The easiest way to do it is go dune ready so you don't need to leave anything in the parking lot, set everything up with flags and stickers and just drive them right in the dunes, you can put the quad in the back of a truck or you can pull it down the road behind the truck from the campground.

I have done quite a bit of work with Autocad and have it on my computer at home. I do mostly mechanical drawings but have done a few floorplans as well so I could probably help ya out, let me know

I agree completely, ergos on the 450 and Raptor feel terrible compared to the Banshee.

Since you don't want your old engine I'd be happy to take it off your hands, I'll pay shipping & handling

Does your K&N have an outwear on it? If it does try pulling it off once. See my post a ways down the page "Symptoms of a twisted crank" I had one acting the same way, outwear looked fine but it was actually totally plugged, bike ran great in the garage but jump on it and go and it had nothing. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59304

No, as long as your clutch parts are in good condition and everything is adjusted properly you should be fine, I run 16/41 most of the time without problems, I did have clutch problems last year that were due to a worn clutch basket, switched to billet and all is well, good components make all the difference.

lol, thats off-road diesel, don't use that, JK

I understand the top of the piston expanding further but don't you guys think that .014" is a little excessive? Thats why I was asking him where he measured, I don't know but I just thought it was alot of variance.