Master of Faster

I'm looking to buy a set of 20x10x10 8 paddle extremes, RMATV is out of stock and I need them before the weekend of AUG 10-12, let me know if you have a very nice used set or know who has a new pair in stock, thanks.

With my last motor I went 8.4 @ 78 mph, trail port, fatties, stock swinger, stock tires. Just lowered the front. Sit on the gas tank and ride the clutch coming out. I'd like to go back soon and see what my new 4-mil does.

For anyone interested, heres what I ended up doing to solve my problem. I was able to make 6 back to back 500ft pulls with it without it running out so it deffinitely helped. The boss where the needle rides in has two tiny port holes to let fuel flow through, I enlarged them to 3/32" which is about twice as large as they were originally. Here's a couple pics... Before After

Burley, thanks for the input. Unfortunately funds aren't going to allow for another carb change right now, so I'll figure out some way to keep enough fuel in there. Not drag racing is deffinitely not an option :biggrin:

795 series have wrist pins relocated 5mm. They adjust for the longer rods but you still have to compensate for the extra stroke by cutting the heads or running a spacer plate.

Thanks for the suggestions, I'll give it a shot tomorrow. I know the pic isn't worth much, Banshees, snowmobiles and big trucks don't leave much in the budget for a good digital camera, lol. :thumbsup:

Took my 4-mil, trail ported stock cylinder motor to Silver Lake this weekend for the first time and I was having trouble with it cutting out about 3/4 the way down the drag strip or when making a long pull up the hill. I jetted it all over the place but the problem still persisted. I'm running the 30mm keihin knockoffs with 160 mains currently, bike is running great and will scream through the first few gears but at about 450-500 ft it falls on its face at WOT, sometimes I'll get a little pop. Do you think its possible that its pulling the float bowls dry? I had the petcock out and cleaned it up but I'm still running the stock one. I didn't think I would be pulling enough fuel to warrant a pingel but maybe I am? Here's a horrible pic of the last plug chop I did, I know its on the rich side not so much that it would be causing a problem I don't think, anyways I was all the way down to 152 mains in the dunes and the problem was still there, just took longer to happen and plugs looked lean. Any suggestions on how to get more fuel to the carbs or if you think there is another problem please let me know, I hate to spend the money on a pingel right now if I don't need it, thanks.

Got a little over a tank run through it hard, compression is about 158 psi now on both sides, just a tad higher than when I first put it together. Its running great and so signs of problems at all.

If they are 30mm D-slide chances are they are the oko's. Personally on a 4-mil motor I'd be looking for a set of 33 pwks.

Put the compression tester on it and got 155 psi so I just decided to go ahead and run it today, watched the plugs real close for awhile and no problems at all. Runs very well, but thanks for help guys.

Rechambered stock head

Hey guys, I just put my new 4-mil together and I'm sitting at .035" squish right now. I need to stay on pump gas, is this gonna be too tight? I do have the head rechambered with a little steeper squish band to fit the piston better. I'm stuck as to what to do right now, on one hand I wanna be safe with a brand new motor but on the other hand I want it to run as strong as possible. I haven't gotten it back in the bike yet to see what the compression is but I'm working on it now.

You leaned it out by taking the airbox lid off and thats why its not running as well. You need to either jet up a couple sizes or put that airbox lid back on and it will run better again.

pm'd you

still looking

Hey, I got a set, lets talk about a trade.

I'm interested in trying a set of the 30mm oko's that were being sold on ebay but haven't been able to locate a set and can't get ahold of anyone at CPW, so if anybody has a set they'd like to sell let me know. Also interested in a set of 33mm pwks.

I got a set for $50 shipped, PM me if your interested.

You may have gotten lucky if the plates were stuck together for some reason I guess or if the nut was loose, but there is just no way you are going to get those plates to hold together against 65 ft lbs when trying to tighten it, unless the plates are literally melted together. Oh well, I'm done, I think we agree the right thing to do is just purchase or make a tool :biggrin:

Yes, I have seen MANY banshee clutches. Without pressure on the plates, the steels will spin within the fibers. If you put a socket on that nut the inner hub would just spin regardless if you had the basket locked up or not. The penny trick is only for removing the drive gear nut or flywheel nut, it will not work in this scenario.

If the motor is in the quad try putting it in a high gear (at least 4th or 5th) and either stand on the brake or have a buddy hold on to a rear tire and then tighten it up.

What will keep the inside hub from spinning? The plates will just spin within each other like they are designed to do unless you put the pressure plate on in which case you can't get at the nut.

Penny trick won't work to tighten that nut, it will hold the basket but will not hold the center hub still. I made a tool out of some old plates to hold it but usually I just bang it quick with an impact gun and bend the tab down, works fine.

No problem, glad you're happy. :biggrin:

Wheels are sold