Master of Faster

Anyone here gonna be at Silver Lake this weekend. We're takin off Friday and comin home Monday (6th-9th). Just curious if anyone else was gonna be there!

Pretty standard problem, you can try taking links out of the chain to tighten it up but you risk making it too short for your other gearing. Easiest would be to buy a larger rear sproket as opposed to a smaller front. 14/43 or 14/44 will be about the same as 13/41.

When you headed over? I'll be there on Thursday. The gearing really depends on what you're gonna be doin most. For drag racing in the flats I like to run 15/41, problem is the flats have been flooded over there this year and they probably still are. Most of the racing has been goin on the first hill where you really need the lower gearing so you can at least pull second otta the hole in the soft sand, the holeshot is almost the entire race. I'm headed over this time with stock gearing 14/41. My buddy runs 13/41 on his stock Banshee and does good in short races and up the hills. If you're just goin out there to play around and have fun just run whatever you run in the trails, just about anything works. The hills aren't that knarly, you'll have no problem.

Hey guys, lately in the very high rpms my quad flutters/misses. Runs excellent otherwise, but it's most noticeable when drag racing when I'm really twistin on it. I didn't have this problem until after I put different reeds and cages in. I bought them used off of eBay and I'm pretty sure that they are boysen rad valves but not positive. I've eliminated the possibility of jetting so I'm down to these. The question is, these new cages don't have the stopper plates (you know, the curved reed stops like on the stock ones). They only have the small plate that goes overtop the bottom of the reeds (like most aftermarket setups). So all I can figure is the reeds are opening too far and not closing fast enough at high rpms and causing the bike to flutter, but would a new set of reeds cure this, or should I go back to the stock cages with the stop plates. Any opinions would be appreciated, thanks!

Has anyone had any experience with WSM pistons good or bad. I'm in need of a rebuild and I can get the entire kit for a reasonable price and just wondered if anyone here has run them and what they thought. They are WSM Platinum Series and are supposed to have a low friction coating, any input is appreciated, thanks.

Need a good right side cylinder for a banshee, preferably on the stock bore but let me know what ya got, thanks. [email protected]

Hockey, lemme know how he does on the port/polish on yours. I live in Auburn, pretty close to Midland. If he does a good job it might be worth having someone local do mine. It's my understanding that he was the head mechanic for Bridgeport Polaris until they got closed down for warranty fraud, and was pretty good but I didn't know he did work like that, lemme know.

I think you might need a little grease in them a-arms

That's absolutely rediculous It's sad how people won't take resposibility for their own actions anymore and how these other worthless lifesuckers feed off their stupidity. I sent my "respectful" letter and so should everyone else. Maybe if we flood them with hundreds of "respectful" critisicms they'll get the picture.

I know a lot of you guys have had this problem and have tried to figure it out. I did a search and read through a couple of old posts about this but didn't see where anyone found a definitive answer so I thought I would ask and share my 2 cents as well. Between myself and a buddy we have three banshees: Stock piped 94, Stock-piped 04, and a Fatty-piped 97. Before this year all three had the stock pipes and none had any problems with the throttle sticking after going through water. So this year I put pipes on my 97 and I'm experiencing the throttle sticking after running through the water. All the bikes have the stock carbs with TORS, however the throttle over ride is unhooked on my 97. As far as a I can tell the teflon on the carb slides makes no difference in sticking whether it's worn off or not, and niether does the snorkle or the airbox lid. The only noteable variable between the three bikes and the throttle sticking problem is the pipes. So the only reasonable theory I can come up with is the closer location of the aftermarket pipe expansion chambers to the carbs cause them (the carbs) to run hotter due to the heat off the pipes. The heat causes the carb body as well as the slide to expand. When water is spashed on the carbs the bodies contract slighty causing the still slighty expanded slides to stick due to close tolerances. I am going to try polishing the inside of the carb body where the slide goes next, but if anyone has come up with an answer or a fix to this that I missed please let me know. Thanks