Master of Faster

I have a set of nice small bore CPI's, looking for a set of big bores if you're interested in a trade.

ttt

Thanks for the interest slopoke but I'm looking to keep the set together, they seem to be easier to sell that way. If someone ends up wanting just the pipes I will let you know. And Joe, thanks for the heads up but just looking to off these for some $$$. :thumbsup:

I have a set of Toomey T5's that were bought brand new last summer, decided to build a bigger motor and upgraded to CPI's at the same time. Pipes are in awesome condition, no dissapointments. Asking $350.00 + shipping for the pipes/silencers. Also have a set of the Toomey clip in spark arrestors, $100 + shipping.

The OKO's love to drain the bowls on a decent WOT run, the fuel inlet and needle setup doesn't flow enough in stock form to feed a strong motor. Make sure that your fuel lines are nice and even to each carb, and then cross drill the boss that the needle slides in. These holes will allow more fuel to flow into the bowl when the needle is down but the needle will still seal as long as you don't knick the seat surface when drilling. Drill through like in the picture and then drill another set at 90* to these two, you should end up with four extra holes total in the each carb. No more breaking up/going flat at WOT. We've done this on a couple strong 4mm motors in the past and it has solved the problem completely :thumbsup:

I'm assuming this is supposed to be a pump gas motor? Seems a little tight to me, throw a second head gasket in there and that should put ya about where you need to be. It will lower the compression slightly which would be good if you're running 93. At 165 psi on the gauge with a ported top end I would be worried about detonation on pump fuel.

I'm trying to find someone who can get me 6.0 slides for my 35 pwks. My carbs were setup for alcohol and have 4.5 slides in them now and I'm having a very hard time getting the bottom end leaned out enough to work with gas. The places around me are telling me they can't get them. Does anybody know who has these things or can at least order them for me? Thanks guys

Can anybody tell me what the stock dump tube size should be on a 35mm PWK airstryker? I bought a set to run on gas but I'm thinking they may have been drilled for alky. Thanks guys

Pipes and polished silencers sold. Second set of Turbine Cores still available.

$275 is for the pipes and the one set of silencers that are pictured with the pipes. The second set of silencers are older/larger and I'm asking $50 for those.

Here's a couple pictures. Pipes look nice, have a little spotty surface rust on the back side that looks like it would clean right off with a little polish, typical bluing near cylinders. No visibile defects when mounted. The right side silencer did have a ding in the end cap that was pushed out that I forgot about, you can see where it was fixed if you look at it. Here's the other silencers. You can see in the pic where the left side tube was welded near the mounting tab, still fits and sounds good. No leaks. The right side has a small rock ding in the bottom. There is also some rust inside the end caps. These aren't like new, but still function great and look just fine.

I've got a very nice set of FMF Fatty pipes and turbine core 2 silencers (spark arrested) for sale. The silencers are fully polished and look/sound excellent. You can still read the forestry approved stamp on the side as well. Asking $275 + shipping, will take Paypal or money order. Also have a set of the older style (larger) turbine core silencers for sale. The left side tube has been welded but isn't noticeable and has been run for a long time like that without issues. These are clean but not polished like the first set. $50+ shipping, cheaper than sparkys. I'll post pictures later this afternoon.

I'm looking for a set of 35mm PWK's, PM me here or email to [email protected] Thanks guys

I will take these, just let me know how to pay. PM'd you

Looking for a complete set of inframe smallbore CPI's. Must be chrome and in nice shape. PM me here or email at [email protected] Thanks guys, Doug

Thanks guys, sounds like a pretty good consensus to me. I'll order up the 33's. How about intakes now? Go with the style with the built in crossover, or ditch it?

Hey guys, I know this has been covered in the past, but I just couldn't find the answer I was looking for searching. What I'm working on is a 4mm, dune ported (stock cyl) motor with CPIs. It will be used for duning/dragging. I like the PWK style carbs so I was just trying to decide between the 33's and 35's. My instinct is to go with the 35's so I'll have some flexibility to eventually go with more aggressive porting, bigger motor, ect but I don't want my current motor to suffer from too much carb. So I guess the question boils down to if 35's are too big for a 4mm, stock cylinder, CPI bike?

We did this earlier this year and had a great time so we decided to open up the backyard for some fun heads up drag racing again. Track is 480' long + shutdown, but its just for fun so ya don't have to run the whole distance. We'll be running quads, bikes, pickup trucks... Anything with a motor is welcome, we'll do a cookout mid-day and have a big fire that night. Also have a little pond for the trucks to do some boggin in if they like :biggrin: We're in Auburn, MI which is just east of midland (west of Bay City). Anybody interested just shoot me a PM and I'll fill ya in on the rest of the details. This is private property so all we ask is you be responsible, come back the return lane, helmets mandatory, no drinking & driving. In general, have fun, don't be stupid :thumbsup:

I'm looking for a set of 20x10x10 (or close ) 8 paddle Extremes or 20x10x10 9/10 paddle Haulers I could adjust the height and width a little bit (not sure exactly what sizes they make), but I can't seem to find anyone who has these things, everyone I talk to is back ordered. Any help would be much appreciated, looking to get a set coming within the next week or so.

Most of the bikes are just pretty typical pipe/cam/piston 4 strokes, few piped banshees, couple piped/ported, couple 4mils, nothing special but they do seem to get a little faster every time :biggrin: One of my buddies just dropped $1300 today to get a ported head and drag exhaust overnighted here for his raptor for the weekend, lol. I will deffinitely let you guys know a little more ahead of time for the next go-round, also trying to locate a portatree so we can leave on the light instead of the hand drop.

Dave, no offense taken, there wouldn't be anything here that I know of for you to race with your banshee. My bike is a trail ported 4-mil, stock swinger, ect. and is one of the front runners, its just a bunch of guys with mild trail quads out having some fun, little cookout and a fire and ya can't go wrong. Doug

It's a sandy start but it quickly goes to hardpack dirt, deffinitely would tear paddles up so we mostly run razr's, karlys, turf tamers, that sort of stuff. We do mark the 300' point, its just that most of the guys run trailable quads with taller gearing and like to run em out a ways to see who's got what. Plus there are alot of Banshee/450 matchups so its advantageous to strech the race out a bit, lol. Next time I will post up a little more ahead of time and maybe you guys will be able to make it out.

Ahh yes, I graduated from Western. That's too bad your motor isn't done. I'm actually waiting for my override back from WCR right now, should have been here awhile ago, but he says he shipped it last week so it better get here in time. It will suck to not have my own quad ready to run on this track I've been working on, lol.

We're putting on a little drag racing in our back yard this coming saturday, may 17th. No lights, no timers, just some guys out to have some fun. Thought I might throw this up for any HQer's that are in the area that might be interested. We're in Auburn, MI (not Auburn Hills!), its directly between Bay City and Midland. If you're interested just shoot me a pm and I'll fill ya in on details. Starting line, freshly groomed, track is 480' long. If ya run any farther shutdown becomes an issue.

I'm in the process of deciding what type of override I am going to put in my bike and I hear alot of talk about the neutral down option. Whitaker only charges an extra $15 for this. I'm thinking this means that neutral is "below" 1st gear instead of between 1st/2nd? Is that correct? And you still pull the shifter up to upshift like normal? If someone could just clarify that for me and opinions on whether its good or bad would also be appreciated. I will be using this with my 4mm motor for drags and duning. It will be a duneable trans. Thanks guys :biggrin: