Master of Faster

Polished?

Looking at a set of Noleen pipes with Flow silencers, really nice looking pipes but never heard of them before. They resemble Pro-Circuits or T6's slightly I suppose, very smooth curve. Anybody got any experience with these? Are they a mid-top pipe?

I was riding around yesterday doin wheelies, got a little carried away with one and dragged the bumper in the dirt for 10-20 feet til I got the rear brake. In the process I managed to bend one of my silencers up a couple inches and jam so much dirt into the tips the bike wouldn't run Got me thinkin it wasn't a very good design how far they stick out and that maybe I could shorten em an inch or two, anybody ever done it, any problems with it?

You can get the crank rebuilt, a new rod is about 90 bucks and the counter weight and pin (if you need them) is about 70, but after labor you might be better off buying a good used one.

Got any pics of it? chrome? polished?

I may be there, I'd like to see how my new motor stacks up

Rocky Mountain Atv $53.99 Part # 01-315, Thumb Throttle Kit Page 502 in the 2005 spring summer catalog

Yeah, I looked at that, only reason I didn't want to put it there is because that's what everybody else does That's what I'll do if I have to, just looking to be different, thanks though

I'm putting a temp gauge on me shee using a meat thermometer like so many guys on here have done. I found one small enough that I can mount on the plastic handlbar clamp cover right next to the keyswitch, but to put it there I would have to cut the stick down. Do you guys know how these little things work? Can I cut it down to about 1" and still have it function properly?

Got it, just swapped coils and it's running flawlessly Thanks for all your help guys

It was advanced +4, put on a stock plate with the other stator, but it didn't help

I am running TDR hyper-tension reeds. I see that they sell ones for stock and ones for modified motors, mine are for stock. Don't know how heavily you need to be modifed to need the other ones No, I haven't checked the float heights lately, but the bike does leak a little gas when sitting so I would think they might be a little high if anything, but I will check. Both cylinders seem to flutter begginning right at the same time, I will try out another coil tommorrow. Thanks guys

Well, tried a different flywheel and stator and no luck, also tried a different CDI, thanks for your suggestions so far, but keep the ideas comin.

Yeah, I can get a stator and flywheel to try, I thought about trying it yesterday but didn't have a flywheel puller with me. I'll try it later today, thanks.

Yeah, the carbs are immaculate, they've been cleaned many times. I've also checked for air leaks with carb clean and found no problem.

I just got my bike put back together with my freshly ported motor. Took it out to the dunes yesterday and it is fluttering badly in the upper rpms. I'm running Fattys and a trail port, no lid, ported cages with TDR reeds. Builder told me to run 310 mains so that's what I started with, I ended up jetting from 300's up to 350's with little to no change in how it was running. This was the same problem I was having last year without the porting that I couldn't correct with jetting, so I'm starting to wonder if there isn't another problem. Is it possible that it is electrical, like a faulty stator, or could it be that I need higher tension reeds? It runs awesome on the bottom and into mid, I beat a few 450's short-shiftin it. It just won't sing the high notes. Any suggestions at this point are welcome, thanks guys.

We will only be there on Saturday, just a day trip. My Banshee is yellow with a red tank cover, yellow frame, #22 on the grill. Can't miss it.

Thanks for your input guys but I just couldn't do it, went and bought another from the dealer, thanks anyways.

Hey guys, just got this gasket in the mail and the package was bent. Should I try it or trash it?

I'll be there on Saturday, we'll have three banshees, a grizzly, a blaster,a raptor, a z400, two sportsmans, two 400ex's, maybe a yfz450 and predator. I'll keep an eye out for ya and say hello

Hey guys, I just took my crank to be trued and welded and upon inspection we noticed that the oustides of the crank bearings were polished as if they were vibrating inside the cases. The cases are slighty polished as well where the bearings sit. The crank wasn't too bad, it was about 3 thousanths out. The motor seemed to run very smooth before I pulled it apart, stock 97 motor, stock bore, stock pistons, never been touched. What do guys think could have caused this, is it somethin I should worry about or just get the crank trued and welded and not worry about it.

Just had my frame, swingarm, and bearing carrier all done for $140 including tax. For the prices some of you guys are payin it might be cheaper to ship it somewhere to have it done.

Thankyou

I was pulling my clutch apart on the bench because I was splitting the cases to get my crank trued and welded when I realized my clutch basket was somewhat loose from the gear on the back, I can rotate it about 3/8". How exactly is it held on there, rivets? Should I just buy a new clutch basket and gear or can I take it apart and reattach it. I know there must be some way of doing it becasue aftermarket baskets don't come with the gear. What do you guys think?

Same thing happened to one of my cylinders when the aluminum on the piston between the rings broke on the intake side. Took a chunk out of the sleeve on the bottom of an intake port. Probly about the same size as yours as you describe it. Cleaned it up a bit with a porting tool and no problem since. Would have to see at least a picture of yours though to tell for sure.