sredish

like I said in your OTHER thread, ditch the grips. You must either be flaming gay or a tough motherfucker to be sportin pink grips....

Whatup peeps. I was doing some spring cleaning in the shop this afternoon and found a set of stock yellow springed front shocks and stock nerfs. Both of them are in good condition, the shocks look like they have a little bit of use on them but not abused. I'll post pics tomorrow. I'd like $60 shipped for the shocks and maybe $30 for the nerfs. If you don't agree with these prices, I'll be more than happy to entertain some offers, just PM me. Scott

I'm pretty sure the 2-1 pipes jet leaner than typical twin pipes, however, a search for dynoport in the jetting area only should yield results that could get you the info you need. Scott

Let me start off by saying that you need to learn to read the plugs. Your plugs will tell you whether you need to go up or not, better than we can, all we can do is give you "guesstimations". Now, I think a 240 might be better suited than a 220. I'm not real familiar with jetting 2-1 pipes tho and 220 sounds awfully lean to me for any aftmkt pipe. I was thinking maybe 260 or 270. Do a search for plug chop and do it pronto, that will tell you exactly what you need to do. Scott

With 22cc domes, I don't see a need for race gas. That jetting doesn't sound way off. Those pipes don't flow like Fatties or Toomeys. 270s or 280s would be pretty close. I'd probably say try some 280s. Run a plug check afterwards to verify the jetting.

man, your gonna have to be careful jetting those in. Porwork can be from one extreme to the other in regards to jetting. You could be from 340 to 380, so I'd say start at 360 and hope you get some good readings. You may be on the high side, but I dunno, this is where plug checking really comes in handy....

VForce 2's are about the only reeds I'd recommend. Duncan's own Pyramid's are pretty good to. There are a lot of other reed setups that are decent, but none seem to flow like the VForce's.

At your elevation, 280's would be on the lean side of "ok" to me. You could end up at 280 or 310. I'm kind of with Banshee on the main and would try some 300s, but I think 30s might be a bit steep. Keep the 27.5's in there and then see how she does after the main change. If it's starting bad, see if it gets better or worse when you pull the choke (with it running) Be sure to give us updates...

have you tried moving the clip the other way, it may be a lean bog and you need to richen it up. try working one clip at a time till they're on the 5th and see if it'll run any better. well, my advice would be to go out and run a WOT plug check to make sure the mains are right. The mains could affect the mid, but just depends on some things. Like I said, I'd go run a WOT plug check to make sure your jetted accurately on the main. If you were to keep messing with the needle, then later on have to change the main, it'll affect your prev. needle setting. So, always work from the main, then to the pilot and then fine tune the needle in. If you don't know what mains are in there, you need to open her up and find out. Once we know the mains and how your plugs look at WOT, then we can make a more educated decision on what you need to do with the needle. Scott

most of us ride w/o the lid all the time period. it's hidden pretty well under the seat. but, what some of us have done is cut the back 2" off, right behind the rear snaps, then cut some holes on the inside/underneath of the snorkle, that'll let it breathe about like a box w/ no lid but be much more protected. with just t5's, otherwise stock, maybe around 290s or 300s. that's just a guess, you'll have to check plugs to be 100% sure. Scott

The Pro Design Plate and the Noss Machine plate are pretty similar and function the same... BUT, 1) Noss Machine (and Dave, aka dlnoss) are site sponsors; 2) Dave, aka dlnoss, are on here pretty regularly should you have questions, problems, whatever; 3) He's a great guy to deal with and would do anything to make any transaction right. So, would you rather mail order to an oversized warehouse who knows where, or deal from someone who's supporting the very site we're on for free (well some), and someone you can get ahold of very easily through the site, and is giving discounts. (FYI, I'm not pointing this to you MILO, i've bought my share of stuff from RMATV, i'm just letting waffles make an "informed" decision.... I had a PD plate on mine, but would've bought it from Noss had it not been on the machine when I bought it.)

Do a search for TORS

all depends on what's in your wallet... porting + stroker is obviously more power than portwork alone so just figure out what you can budget for it...

i don't, but you might try carbparts.com. Look them up and then call the phone number and talk to the guy. Tell him what you have and that you want the same needle with a richer taper for the 3/4 to WOT range.

we'll see, dunno. I have to check my race schedule. Where do you live? I may go out there this Sunday and play around some tho. Oh, and you may consider changing needles if your that big on the main. Go to a needle EXACTLY the same except a steeper taper. This will get fuel out of the main faster from 3/4 - up and won't require such a large main jet to work and will help get the power in.

You can add all the carbs, hoohaas, and whatnots you want until your blue in the face. Your still not gonna gain much unless you change the gearing. It'll rev a little faster maybe, but quit worrying about what mods you need and just put a 15 on the front. Trust Us, it'll be ok. Also, the change of going from 26's to 28's isn't going to be a black to white change. Your not going to go from no power to "oh-my-phucking-god" power by going up 2mm on your carbs. And, if your jetting isn't right, it won't do shizzle to your nizzle. Just keep working on your jetting. LEAVE YOUR F"ING PILOT ALONE NOW and get your main jet dialed in. There's still more power that can be had if your not jetted right. Oh, and in case I didn't say so, CHANGE YOUR FRONT SPROCKET!

what's a banshee?

Did you try moving the clips all the way down (moving the needle up), which would richen it and maybe eliminate the bog? Is it a smooth bog like in a lean condition or is it wet sputtery sounding?

not directly. it's just that the box will advance the timing some and then if you advance it even more with the plate, you could be putting it into the risk zone. if you know how much the box is advancing and was sure not to push it, then no. Regarding plugs. DO NOT change heat types unless your plug colors shows it's necessary. If you don't know where to look for that info on the plug, then you shouldn't be messing with different heat ranges. Stick with an "8" NGK plug and it'll be fine.

Which is still too cheap to be buying keys.... oh and thanks for the info rod.

ahahaha, fuckin sarcasm at it's best right there folks....

Actually, not to contradict anyone, but the bigger 38 will hinder the bottom end over the 35 and the 33. The top end will perform better with the 38 as the air velocity will be much greater at higher rpms. The main problem I've found with the bigger single carbs is low rpm air velocity. This can be helped with porting and reeds and such to increase air flow. I've also found that a needle change will probably be required for proper jetting. I wouldn't get a top end port job with that carb, get a mx or woods type port job. the woods port will help your bottom end, midrange and your top end as well, it'll let your motor breathe better from top to bottom which is the key for those larger single carb setups. The Fatties will be an ideal pipe for that carb setup. Don't get me wrong, when you get the single carb setup right, it's awesome. Scott

so nobody's really going to help this guy out? Just mod your stock timing plate. You'll want to extend the holes to the left, allowing you to rotated the plate clockwise. 1mm of rotation = 1 degree of advance, so you'll want to rotate it 5 or 6 degrees. You can search for modding timing plate or something similar and find pics and all kinds of info, plus IT"S FREE and safer than a key.