sredish

I'd try it in the 4th clip down and then the 5th and see which works better. Scott

Well, we all know popping is caused from lean condition. Even though it's running good, I still wanna say your main could be lean, even though your having a prob at idle to 1/4. What pilot is in it, and what clip is the needle in, and also what's your elevation and location? How do you check the plugs, sitting there idling after a ride or during a WOT in 5th / 6th gear run? Need answers

What clip is your needle in? The needle clip will start affecting all the way down to 1/8 throttle and at 3/16 of throttle it's come on quite a bit. You might try raising the needle one more clip and see if the bog cleans out and then also see how much it affects it from 1/4 to 1/2 and up. Report back.

throw em on and go... might check the plug after shee warms up but you should be damn close anyways.

That ain't no shiz... my status hasn't been upgraded and doubtful that it ever will... Only one way to learn, ain't that right.... BTW, I like my Honda.

Does that thing come from the factory with 4 pipes? I see the two exhaust pipes on the bottom and it looks like 2 more exhaust holes above the bottom pipes. I bet that thing sounds like an Indy car.

Just buy individual jets. The jet kits hardly ever have what you really need and they're too expensive. Just buy main jets from 270 to 310 and a 27.5 pilot and you'll be set, until you get it ported. I'm guessing 270 to 280 on the main as well with the lid on.

Getting rid of the silencers off your stock pipes won't do sh*t. The silencers don't provide much, if any, back pressure. The power is made in your pipes/expansion chambers, so unless you change them, your just pissing in the wind. All your going to accomplish by removing the silencers is making it sound like crap. Get some real pipes and leave the ones you have alone. You can remove the airbox lid for a little bit of help. Later.

You can do a search and find more info than you'd ever need to read. I ran Castor 927 for a few years and recently switched to Silkolene pre-mix. I used Silkolene Comp Gear for the motor/tranny area. Maxima chain wax for the chain. It doesn't matter what brake fluid you use, they're all about the same, just be sure to use the right DOT #. I remember having a bottle of EBC around somewhere. Damn newbies...

No pipes, +4. Have pipes, +6. Go big or go home.... Actually, I was running +7 on mine and it ran great that way, I was really happy with that setup.

Whatup peeps? Got back yesterday and just noticed this thread. Not much I can add to this thread.... I'd agree that a smaller set of carbs is what is needed. I'd probably consider running a set of 33mm PWK's with that setup, but 35's will be a good match as well. He won't need to worry about race gas unless he gets much over 155 or so, as rocketpig said, and at that number, only 50/50. If you want to take advantage of race fuel, get the compression to 165 and throw some 104 in it. I wouldn't undo the Powervalves, they're there for a reason and help bring in the power smoothly. I'd love to have a powervalved motor, if he can't get it running right, let me know.... I have a nice trade for him.... Let us know how it runs after the change and how even you are with him.... Just remember.... "I'm from the streets, Beeeoootch!"

I haven't had any problems getting the wrist pins out either. I used needle nose to get the clips out and then pushed the wrist pin out with my fingers. LIke butta!!!

Good to hear. You might oughta write a review and post it in the Product Reviews section. Scott

What about Sand Skates? Used only twice for very short weekends, still have nubs.

Ben, you old dog. How do you stay on the seat with that many years under your belt....

Yeah, I had it Tivoed. That old ass is the only person I know that can almost make it boring watching people ride at Glamis. Wife's all, "so what's fun about that". I'm like, no, it's really a lot better than that. Where's ATV Sport?????? Please come back!!!!

Brandon, get your ass to Texas, and we'll work all that shit out, Texas style... Oh yea, don't forget the quads!

WTF??? Damn the luck man... you'll bounce back bigger than ever...

You'll definitely get more flow. In reality, the flow right now is limited to your reeds and your ports. Open your reeds up, with the VForce, then you'll be good to go till your ready for porting. It's not a waste to put VForce on stock carbs w/o porting, however a cheaper set of reeds like a ported stock cage and a set of boyesens will probably give you about as much flow, because of the stock porting. Should you decide you want portwork, then the VForce will outflow the stock ported cage and aftmkt reeds. So, what I'm saying is, with stock porting you have several options that will benefit you about the same, but you can go much farther with the VForce reeds. I wouldn't run anything but the VForce reeds, personally. Scott

Mod the stock plate is right, and mod it to +8 so you have plenty of adjustability. Honestly, in my machine, I ran +7 and it was wicked. If your going to advance the timing, make it worth it and go to at least +6. Search for timing plate mod and you'll find what you need. Scott

Didn't she do this to you once before? Dammit Led, sorry to hear.

hmm, i don't know... should I cut my hair...

Powdercoaters can get a color that's called Powder Chrome, but it's not the same as what Dunedemon does. The color Powder Chrome is shiny and is somewhat reflective, but does not really look like chrome, more like a very very shiny silver. Dunedemon's "Powder chrome" isn't like powder coating at all, it's a totally different process, but when it's finished, it looks JUST LIKE chrome, in fact, it seems you would have a hard time distinguising between the two. He just nicknamed the process, Powder chrome. Catchy isn't it? Here's a quote from his thread: Here's his "Powder Chromed" swinger: Here's his "Powder Chrome" thread" POWDER CHROME Amazing what a search will do.