cam2

here's my SS trinity's. not much of a bend more of a broad curve. http://www.bikepics.com/pictures/315331/

here's my old FMF SST's.

do you know if this a complete exhaust system? pipes, stingers, silencers etc. etc.? the pic only shows the pipes. i wouldn't mess with them if it wasn't the complete set. plus they don't look like my SS trinity pipes. they remind me more of a set of FMF pipes. look at the bends. they may be an old school set of trinity's, but they don't look like the old school set that my buddy had on his shee. from what i can tell they are FMF's. if my eyes aren't deceiving me they look chromed to me as well. here's their pic.

holy phuck, a buck fiddy? that's a damn steal. dude any decent after market pipe will cost an average of $425 or more brand new. let alone a set of SS pipes. i don't know what your financial affairs are, but if you can afford them, get them.

oh, i see that you're in new zealand. what does $300nz equate to in U.S. dollars?

$300 for SS, hell yeah. even if they were chromed and in great shape that would still be a good price. give them a try and if you don't like them you would be able to get your money back, especially if they're in good shape. if the fatties are comparable to the SST's that i had, like i've been told, i personally would rather run the trinity's.

if they are the SS, they're the best built exhaust on the market. i own/owned three sets of after market pipes and seen many others and none of them are as nice looking or built as well as the SS trinity's. i had a set of FMF SST's, which are similar to fatties, and i ran them on my stock engine and ported engine, they were decent. i put a set of SS trinity's on the same ported engine and there was a noticable difference IMHO, as well as my buddies opinion. they seemed to come on a little earlier and reved out a little longer (definitely). plus, if i remember correctley the power band hit was a little smoother. i'm running small bore in-frame shearer's on my cub, but if i were to run another engine set up like stock ported jugs that were setup for more of an open trail bike where throttle response and low rpm response was needed i would choose my SS trinity pipes over my shearer pipes.

yep, damn near down town. Ybor is a fun place, but watch your ass. a lot bad shit seems to happen down there at times. fighting, getting jumped, etc. etc. it's surrounded by some seedy hoods. i don't mean to discourage you because there is a lot of fun to be had that's for sure, and you'll most likely have a blast. it can get crazy fun, that's what most people are there for. but there is always an asshole or group of assholes that can ruin a good time. i've been down there many times, not recently, i haven't had any issues though. but, friends of mine have, along with other stories i've heard. in the next month or so when spring break hits most places along the gulf coast or near it will be happening for sure. hell, most places along the coasts of florida will be happening then as well.

i agree that you need some type of so called drag pipe to get the most out a drag engine setup. i was just wondering if the design of the T5's would allow an engine to reach or exceed 100 HP.

make sure that your cable doesn't have any sharp bends in it. try to make the curves as broad as possible when you route it. i bought an extended thumb throttle from cascade which made a difference as well as cut the slide springs, like the others have mentioned. after doing these things i'm able to ride much longer without the quick thumb fatigue.

yeah i know his bike is a joke, but my question was serious.

if you have an engine that can make over 100 HP, will T5's allow it to make that much?

i do agree. that's one of the issues that i have with that show, along with all of the bickering.

i've found that they work best with the trinity 2 into 1 intake setups.

well, something is a little different than mine. it could be the pipe?????? i have the tab of the pipe on the outside of the pipe hanger. although that may not mean anything because you already have a larger spacer than i do between the frame and the pipe hanger. did you try positioning the pipe a little forward or a little backward in relation to the pipe hanger? this may change the angle a little bit. on my stock pipe hangers i had to open up the holes in order to make things fit decently.

i do the same, i've never had them dry out. letting them soak in oil won't hurt them either because they soak in oil while they're installed in the cases. either way is fine, just keep them from getting dirty as Duner440 said.

you may need to use a longer bolt after you get it shimmed, i did.

i sent you a PM.

i'll definitely be getting a duneable. i have a 421 cub on gas, 35mm pwk's, in frame shearers, etc, etc. i'll be running 22x11x8 10 paddle extreme's for now (because i got a killer deal). this shee is a play bike with an occassional drag race, it will be more of a play bike. what to get? is there much of a price difference between 1-5 and 2-5? i'll assume not. what does a billet 2nd gear usually cost?

i've read a little about overide trannies and i understand the difference between a duneable overide and non dunable. but what i'm not really clear on is why some people choose a 1-5 instead of a 2-5 and vice versa. what advantage does one have over the other? does one choose 1-5 or 2-5 depending on if it's a dunable or non dunable? i've heard of a nuetral down and i was wondering what the advantage of this is?

oh no, not again. you obviously didn't learn from the fullbore ordeal.

that is a nice piece, probably pricey, but nice.

jbooker82, what's the name of the color of your jugs?

thanks for the info.

it's a fantastic idea, i'll buy one.