blueshee03

sorry man but we run it and its all thats in it year round.it does offer freeze protection.this is from the engine ice website :Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant is biodegradable, phosphate free & non-toxic; while reducing operating race temperatures by as much as 50

we've tried water wetter and it is no where as good as engine ice when it comes to lowering engine temps.also if not mixed with anti freeze it will freeze.so if you have to still mix with anti freeze why even bother with it? engine ice will keep from freezing if used pure strength as it is supposed to be.just my 2 cents .

the biggest factor in my oppinion in any race is the riders riding abiltitys and the chassis setup. at the drags we run 500 ft dirt there is a couple big cheetahs that run. bkabina has a 4 mill cub and it will run right with them and has ran better et's than they have many times. i won't really say that the cub is faster all around than the big cheetahs but when you consider the cost and the size difference in comparison to the cub and the performance of the cub when properly tuned and setup then the cub is deffinately the way to go.oh also b's cub is in a stock chassis and he weighs 240 pds where as the cheetahs are in lonestar chassis and the riders only weigh between 140 to 175 pds.

is this what you mean? if the link works.map link

hey could you give me me a price on just the cylinder.

hey, i was told shearer out of frames with silencers are special order and they will probally be a lot more money,lol.

damn,shane i never would of thought "ohtonlies" was you.i dealt with you on planet sand and ebay and always thought you were a stand up guy. 16+ different alias's on planet sand? how damn many are you gonna have on here?

mine shee sucks up a gallon in a minute or less if you figure it up,lol.5 passes 500ft long and a gallon is gone and i still would'nt put acetone in the gas.

finess-it made by 3m and a buffer works good.

if your so honest and everything you say is the actual truth then why the new screen name? why not use the same one you use or used over on planet sand and probally on here in the past?

+4 or +5 should be more than enough timing on your setup.if you got it advanced any more than that i'd back it up.as for being able to see spark between pickup and flywheel the answer is no you won't be able to see any.if it were me i'd set timing at +4, check that the gap is right on the pickup and check spark plugs to see if theres any fire there.if your running a stock coil it will run with the orange and black wires on the coil either way.another thing that could of happened is that it could of sheared the flywheel key and the flywheel slipped on the crankshaft.

i'd go with the dual feed pingel and unless your running alky i would'nt worry about the fuel pump.

welcome to hq. usually if you want to post pics you have to use a host such as imagestation.com or photobucket.com.theres alot of hosting places out there .

the older j arm style shees used a different caliper than the newer a arm type .

if it were me,i'd be pulling the head and check it out .white smoke is a good indication theres a coolant leak somewhere .usually the head gasket or o rings in the head.

did he deck just the one he welded or did he deck both so they matched up perfectly.

i'd probally keep the stuff and try to pick up a 4 mill crank.then later on if you go for a cub you'll already have a 4 mill crank.but thats just my oppinion.

how did you fix the base of the cylinder that was knicked?

if it were me i'd of went with the 33's and ported my stock reed cages.

white smoke? how much white smoke and was it white or blueish? white smoke normally indicates a coolant leak into cylinder. what part of pennsylvania are you located in?

Hey , happy birthday Jen. :beer:

First off in a bracket race you can be the slowest there and be the winner everytime.Bracket is'nt about being fast ,it's about being consistant.If you think the guys from Grand River Racing are dicks then you obviously don't know the guy.Andy is a striaght forward ,get to the point guy who probally forgot more than alot of the builders know.GRR pipes have proved themselves over and over again both on bikes and on the dynoes.The only people who have had complaints about andy's pipes either did'nt jet and tune for the pipes or tried to run them on a stock motor.I'm sure also if you have seen any bikes that were truly built by GRR that ran like crap then whoever had them ether did'nt have them tuned or know how to ride.I have dealt with Andy many times and have never had a problem with him.GRR will return a phone call if you call and leave a message also.So I'm sure if you have a problem with Andy or any of his products that you have or have personally tried and you call him he'll be more than willing to help you .I'm sure also that if Andy sees this post he'll chime in and tell you his thoughts. :biggrin:

not a bad lookin quad at a decent priceebay honda link loco seems to like this type of machine. :laugh:

i have to agree that thing looks like crap.however for those who have never seen or rode a cannondale they were actually a fast machine.in stock form they were race ready and would run with a piped and jetted shee pretty easily.the motors on the "dales" were more or less a time bomb due to the fact that they had a very week topend which is probally the leading factor in cannondale going under in the atv market.they were manufactured 20 miles from where i live. my son worked for cannondale and got to test ride a couple of the machines.we also have a buddy that has a cannondale he bought new and it is a very fast quad in between motor rebuilds.

pretty cool wes.i'm there