MILO

some little points that i didn't see yet... get the bike warmed up good on old plugs, then drop in the new ones, make one run to the WOT and hold for a few seconds, then shut her down, either coast her home or put the old plugs back in and ride home. the plug chop is a one shot deal on the plugs, but i'd rather blow a few bucks on a set of new plugs than blow my top end. good luck.

pro circuits - pro design pro flow (foam) w/ no lid - stock needles, 3rd clip - 360 mains - stock pilots - air screws i believe at 2 turns out but i think it's all relative to elevation, temp, and so on. just set it up at whatever your quad is happy with, and runs smooth at.

those hash marks can be pretty hard to see sometimes. i usually make sure the adjusters are sitting the same on the carrier, then take a tape measure and check that the adjuster bolts are out the same distance to keep it squared up. it's worked fine so far.

that's my first piece of advice to anyone- buy a clymer's. then if you need additional help bring it up here. i like to help those who try to help themselves first rather than be cheap and lazy and expect someone else to figure out their problems for them. if they never heard of the clymer's manual, it's understandable to search elsewhere, but clymer's is always my first recommendation, even before talking to a stealership shop monkey.

if you get in there and see the stock pos plastic impeller, while you're messin, rip that bitch out and replace with an aluminum one. the stock one is destined to fail, and probably cause other problems. besides pieces of the busted/shredded stock one floating around your system, it blows the seal behind the impeller letting anti-freeze leak into your tranny. the anti-freeze degrades the clutch plates to the point of slipping, and eventually losing the clutch all together. it can be a costly rebuild depending on the damage done. not to mention all your tranny components getting a nice antifreeze residue on them. be proactive, not reactive in maintaining your ride and you'll have a lot less headaches. oh yeah, and you might as well replace the seal and bearing too if you do the impeller while you have it apart.

bel-ray gear saver --80w - in the banshee and nephew's blaster - no problems

overall it was pretty decent... we're not big spenders, actually my wife and i didn't get each other anything this year, yet...the kids are happy, and it's my son's 1st christmas ( 6wks old) so it was pretty good except for one thing. my 3yr old girl got her elbow dislocated and we had a trip to the ER. 4yr old nephew was pulling her up onto the bed and yanked on her arm - nurse maids dislocation was the result. had it reset at the ER and back home in about 1.5 hr, and she's fine, you wouldn't know anything ever happened. othewise, it was the usual, gifts family dinners, and good times all around.

dammit, dammit dammit at least my 3 yr old girl wasn't on my lap this time.

i agree that it can be modified to fit whatever you want. don't let anybody tell you it's not a good trail ride. the people who do are the ones who like to put thru the trails and enjoy the scenery, for that style it's not going to be the best trail ride. i think the truth is they are afraid of a shee getting away from them in the woods trails and getting hurt. but if you like to rip thru the trails it's a blast. the more you trail ride, the better you learn to manage the shee in the woods. once you learn to manipulate the clutch and powerband and keep it all under control, it's an awesomely fast trail ride.

yeah, what he said!

Clymer's is the way to go. you can fix about anything with a clymer's and good mechanical abilities.

bastards!!! i haven't been here for a while and forgot about such things. scared the shit out of my 3 year old next to me watching her cartoons too. BASTARDS!! LOL.

i haven't checked into the site for a few months and the first message i read into is about boobs!! cool!! heh- heh, BOOBS, heh-heh, heh-heh. oh yeah, and the hillclimbing thing. my best advice, go topless, and keep your boobs laid over the handle bars, it will help with stability and control for the front end.

the key word in my reply was "IF" i was to get rid of the shee for another sport quad, i'd go with the raptor. my plan is to keep the shee and get a grizz also. but maybe not till next year if the wife goes back to work after having the baby. the only reason i'd get rid of the shee for another sport ride is if i wanted to slow it down a little, and be able to poke around a little more, but still have some power and speed when i want to play around. that and having reverse would suit me just fine. but until then, it's all or nothing, which is what the shee gives me.

that's exactly the type of info that needs to be put out there. it's one thing for somebody who makes an effort to make ends meet and take care of their family and things, and still need a little assistance from the state or whatever. it's another to just be a worthless piece of shit sponging off of the rest of us who pay in out of our checks to support their sorry asses cuz they are too lazy to take care of themselves. these people have no sense of pride or dignity, and the truth of their nature has come out, only they are thought to be victims driven to doing these things out of desperation due to the circumstances, rather than just assholes taking advantage of a bad situation and just being themselves. ungrateful worthless lazy ass sons-a-bitches too bad the waters don't distinguish between decent people and waste of oxygen people and segregate them, above or below the water. all they've done now is invaded some other area to bring down to their level.

that was one of my first thoughts too. i know if something like that happened in my area, every able-bodied person would have been out helping to save others or doing whatever they can to help those in need. not sitting around crying the blues with their hand out. that's the problem, it seems most of the 'victims' of NO were the people who are accustomed to getting handouts from everyone thru welfare, etc. or by criminal mischief. the rest had means to evacuate ahead of time. this storm didn't make them into what we've seen on tv, they're just free to be themselves and loot, mug, rape, kill, whatever due to the lack of discipline in force by the authorities. it's not enough to have survived the disaster, they have to take the little bit of 'life' that those people have left and are clinging to. and those ungratefull sons-a-bitches attacking the relief personnel and efforts deserve to be shot down, it's about time they decided to allow it.

i'd pull the carbs off and clean them up real good. maybe you dropped some dirt in there while doing the cable or something, or it's gummed up from setting so long. make sure the carbs are in sync and that you have the crossover tube back on. make sure you have the bowl with the 'starter jet' on the left carb. make sure you have the throttle valves facing the right way, the cut out side faces the air box. if you have the carbs in sync, whatever you turn on one of the idle screws atop the TORS that you do the same with the other. clean your air filter too. if you have spark and getting fuel, it should take off pretty easy, if everything was cool before letting it set.

some local stations here are putting limits on purchasing already. 10 gal limit for example. another local smaller station is out of gas, which isn't really a bad thing at the moment. he has older pumps that will not read over $3 a gal and has to update all his pumps or shut down after being in the buisness for about 30 years. he can't afford to wait and hope it drops below $3 again and stays there. stock piling isn't the answer... i wonder how much gas people wasted sitting and poking around in lines for hours and hours waiting to fill up i think it's funny when everyone loads up every vehicle and jug they have, then the price drops again right after. i agree with the others on just continue to get only what you need as usual, and try to reduce your traveling as much as possible. i don't care what gas goes to, i'm keeping my full size blazer with the 350. i refuse to do without 4wd and plenty of pep to pull the quads or whatever around. i vowed to never own another little 4banger again. the wife's trailblazer does some better on milage so we use it when we can. but i think like the majority of people, i'll just grin and bear it rather than turn my life upside down because of higher prices.

it could be worse... you could not have access to the bansheehq

i really like my pc's and i ride mostly trails and open farming areas. they seem to pull strong pretty much anywhere, anytime.

sorry about your luck bud, but that it is kind of funny! always good to keep the old stuff. i have a box full of things just in case

if i was to get rid of the shee for another sport quad, the 700 craptor would be it's replacement, without a doubt but, my shee is paid for, and i've invested some in it, enough to not want to get rid of it yet. hmmm, then again if i traded the shee that would knock the cost of the craptor down considerably. oh shit, i forgot, the boss(wife) already laid down the law- no more toys, except for the 3 yr old and the newborn.

it doesn't actually hook to anything. the push lever has a flat spot on 1/2 of the lower end of it. the push rod sits against the flat and when the lever turns it pushes the rod and ball against the pressure plate adj. screw and presses the plate outward relieving the tension on the clutch plates. does it work at all, to engage or disengage the clutch? it could be anything from the cable being majorly stretched, the small spring at the push lever broken, rod and ball being welded together, the push lever bearing (where the lever fits into the crankcase) being shot and binding up, the clutch springs being shot or broken, the adjuster screw being loose, broken or worn clutch components. it all depends on what it's doing or not doing. take all the tension off of the cable with the handle bar adjuster. the arrow on the push lever should pass the arrow(to the outside of the quad) on the crankcase. you should be able to push it back in by hand, and when it stops the arrow should line up with the arrow on the crankcase. if it does it is most likely fine inside and may just be the cable and an easy fix. if not, it's internal and you'll need to pull the side cover to see whats going on, and if nothing else to adjust it correctly. with the adjuster screw loosened at the pressure plate, you should be able to move the push lever freely beyond the arrows lining up. i'd pull the pressure plate off and check the rod and ball while your in there. check the basket fingers to see if they are grooved bad from the plates rubbing on them. check the pressure plate for cracks. if all is well, adjust the screw till the arrows line up when you push in on the lever and throw it back together. if i missed anything, i'm sure someone will chime in. oh yeah, i know what i forgot. buy a clymer's manual, they are definitely worth it.

i'm sure a good bearing place could hook you up, but they really aren't that much from the dealer either. just get a kit with new seals also. i definitely wouldn't take the chance with a new bearing and an old seal, unless you'd like to do it all again in the near future. it's not that much more.