MILO

a lookie-boo sheemale, you're really beginning to make me wonder about you!

thanks guys, i'll have to let him know your suggestions. he put a new head gasket on today but is still having problems. my other buddy said they didn't quite torque the bolts as spec'd cuz they were worried they were gonna strip. i figured as long as the threads didn't appear messed up at all, it should be fine to torque it properly. he decided to take it back to the shop monday to have them tear into it. i'll have to tell him again to check the impeller, like you guys mentioned b-4 he does that. they were assuming it was fine since it seemed ok before and didn't have it out. i'll pass it all on to him. thanks.

my buddy's having some prob's with his shee pushing the coolant all to the res bottle and overflowing it. it pretty much starts loading up the bottle after starting it and overflows shortly after,being barely warmed up. i haven't looked at it, but they say they have the hoses all routed correctly. he just did a top end rebuild, but didn't touch the impeller or anything and is assuming it's fine. i can't imagine why it would overflow the bottle other than being routed incorrectly. any ideas?

don't get me wrong guys, i love my shee and the rip of a two stroke. but i think the 4 stroke is the way of the future. 4choke, 4croke, whatever, they are mounting to be some hellish competition. if they're so bad, how come a new stock yfz450 will take a new stock banshee? i'll bet the new 700craptor will take the banshee as well. the transition from 2 to 4 is being smoothed over with some powerful and quick 4 strokes along with better suspension and handling, that in time, will leave the 2 strokes behind, literally. i was told that in the futue 2 stroke motox bikes will only be available for closed circuit racing, not to the recreational rider. of course used 2 strokes will be around for a long time to come, but like a lot of other things, their time will pass.

funny, but then again... my wife really liked that one too.

ditto. i have a wife and a 3 year old, and another on the way. also a mortgage, secure job, and other responsibilities. i like to ride hard and have fun, but within reason, without taking careless chances. i can't afford to get hurt and be laid up for a while, or to be constantly throwing $$ into a busted up ride. i guess for me it's simply family first, then the fun on the shee. that greatly reflects in my riding habits.

i was looking at new rides the other day at the shop, and decided if i was to get a 4stroke, it would be a craptor over the yfz450. mostly because of the shitty seat and ergo's on the yfz. the craptor felt a lot more comfortable. damn, those new grey and white color schemes look sweet on the raptor and shee's. and a 700 raptor couldn't resist looking up the new griz either on yamaha's site. i might have to get another job though

personally, i like Ruger handguns. i have a p93-dc, and a gp100 .357mag.(6") my dad has a super redhawk .44mag, (9.5", i think), gp100 .357(4") and a .22 comp. model (forget the #'s). the only guns more comfortable to hold and shoot would be a glock or beretta, in my opinion. but it so much about personal preference, it's hard to tell someone what they should get. Rugers fit and shoot easy for my dad and i, even my wife likes them. you can't go wrong with any of the names above. excellent quality and durability. i love my p93 for protection and gp100 for deer hunting.

ditto on bolting the plate and fibers together. a penny or wrag will work fine for the gears.

helmet, goggles, gloves, chest protector, steel toe work boots, nylon ripstop pants over jeans, sweatshirt or t-shirt. raincoat if going on a super wet and muddy poker run!

ungratefull little prick!! he just announced his death wish on national tv. yeah he has the right to speak his mind, but with shit like that, someone's gonna shut him up quick. dumb ass. many of us have family or friends in the military and greatly support our troops and are eternally grateful for their efforts or sacrifice. i can just imagine the old vets at the vfw watching that news segment. the only justice that asshole could get is to put him in the thick of it over there and see how he measures up if he thinks he's so superior to our troops. i doubt he'd be 'stupid' enough to get taken out by some iraqi, more likely friendly fire!!

congrats bud! my little girl just turned 3 at the end of april, and we're expecting in nov. also. hopefully a boy this time. we're not gonna find out ahead of time though. my wife sais we are stopping at two... i tell her she better get it right this time then. but i am just fascinated by my little girl each day, so whatever happens, it's all good.

to what extent do these sponsors support you? i mean, what do you get from them besides the opportunity to provide them free advertising with their stickers?

at least you caught it with only a few grooves in it. mine was completely wasted except for a little bit of plastic left on the shaft. the stock ones suck. it's only a matter of time till they fly apart. pro design makes a nice replacement. more advice, get ready for a clutch rebuild. the antifreeze will eat up the bonding material of the clutch fibers and soon leave you with a slipping or wasted clutch. i checked my oil before going out, and it was fine. a few hours lately it was milky and my clutch was slipping pretty bad... get ready to get your hands dirty and break open the piggy bank

maybe this will help... The numbers on an ATV tire are very important. If the tire that you have is a 22x11x8; The 22 stands for the tire being 22 inches tall. The 11 stands for the tire being 11 inches wide , 8 means the tire is to be mounted on an 8-inch rim. Atv tires have some leeway in sizing just make sure that the last number is the same or you

that's usually my first suggestion too. don't dive into rebuilds etc till you check the simple things. make sure the bowls aren't switched, and that the little crossover tube between the carbs is in place.

no more rattles either... sounds like a permanent fix to me. you just put the rebuild guys out of business.

do you have a freestylin shee that is sponsored, and your own pos shee that you are working on or what?? if you have the sponsors you list, you should have it made, and shouldn't have to pay for shit. sorry man, i'm not buying it. and apparently your "sponsors" aren't either.

the last time i tried to catch a rooster, it ended up chasing me and floggin and pecking the heck out of me. my buddy pissed himself laughing his ass off at me we were about 16 at the time. good Lord, that was almost 15 years ago.

i clean mine up after a muddy ride, but i don't get to detailed with it. it will just get all hogged up next time out anyway. basically, the clean shees stay in the sand and out of the mud and the muck. otherwise you'd be spending more time cleaning than riding. no dunes to hit here in pa, but that's ok. a little mud and cow shit will never hurt it.

is it possible that it's just the clutch cable is stretched and needs replaced? if i really adjust it out at the perch, it stops creeping when sitting still and revving. there's no play and it is a real bitch to pull then, but it shifts smooth and doesn't creep. it won't pull in to the bar either, about 1/2" from it seems about all it will go.

ok, i just got into the clutch and everything looks fine. the rod and ball are fine, and nothing else even shows any signs of wear yet. so... i'm gonna double check the adjustment before i throw the side case back on, and look into other things. like the arm, bearings, cable, etc. again. at least i know that all of my recent clutch work is still cool and in good shape. process of elimination i guess, and i'm very happy to eliminate the rod/ball, and the clutch itself.

i thought i could rule out the push rod and ball since the tight binding was only occasionally, not constant. i may rip it down just to have a peek anyway and see if anything else is out of sorts in there. the clutch arm bearing sounds like a good possiblity though. something is definitely binding at times and that would make sense. thanks guys.

i did use all 6 of the hd springs, and i can handle that. it is a little tighter pull, but i mean something binds up and it is very hard to pull, like it would snap the cable before pulling in all the way. but then it frees up and it's fine again after playing with it a little. that's happened while about 2 hours into a long ride. it tightens up, then fades out again and works fine. i didn't really notice the grabbing when sitting still until today, and it wasn't really warmed up well, but i never noticed it before today when cold either. and i didn't want to run it too much if something else was wrong. when it's adjusted properly, and the clutch is released, how far should it return versus the arrow on the crankcase? mine goes back to slightly beyond the arrow. with the adjuster at the perch loosened, you need to push it back by hand to get it all the way back again. i thought it had more spring action before and went back that far on its own. it's just acting different than it did after the rebuild. that's what has me worried.

i recently put on a hinson basket, tusk kit, new inner hub and pressure plate. thanks to everyones help, everything went well with the rebuild. but lately it's been acting up. when sitting still in gear, if you rev it, it wants to roll a little. i had the arrows on the case adjusted properly before, and it worked fine, and they still seem to line up right with good freeplay. sometimes it feels like it binds up and is very hard to pull also, then smooths out again. i cannot see anywhere that the cable is binding or kinked. it's also still the stock perch/lever. it's not slipping at all, just rolling a little when revving. when all the slack is off the cable, the arm at the crankcase doesn't always return fully on it's own, but has to be pushed by hand. any ideas with what's going on in there?? thanks.