MILO

i've been to a few stealerships already where they have chains on a roll and can cut you whatever you want. check around, you might get lucky.

BULLSHIT!! wtf is with some people? don't these people realize yet that the only thing this kind of shit does is piss off and hurt the people who have enough sense to actually handle things with common sense and responsibility, and does nothing to the stupid shitheads who do the things that cause the problems to begin with. guess what, the stupid shitheads causing the problems are still gonna be stupid irresponsible shitheads regardless of what law is passed. it's like the anti-gunners saying that banning guns will solve all the problems. guess what dickweed, no matter what law you pass, the people who use guns for criminal purpose don't give a shit about your laws to begin with, and won't really give a flyin f*ck cuz they are CRIMINALS and survive by working around the laws, not under them. the only ones who suffer, or 'obey', these kind of laws are the people who are decent, sensible people to begin with that wouldn't be doing things that would create a problem anyway. anti-atv'ers, anti-hunters, anti-gunners can all kiss my atv ridin', deer slayin', lead slingin' ass

a tire shop near me has a few yellow, and a few blue ones. i think that's going a little to far though. i would like to see ones with raised white letters though. that would look cool.

my mistake, it is a '97 - 5.7 vortec. after discussing it with my dad again, he said that it only started making noises shortly after the first oil change that he did just a few months ago. he then drained out some oil, and put in some stp and it seemed to clear up until a week or so ago again. so we changed the oil again a few days ago and added stp again, but it still sounded the same. he wasn't sure of the # of the filter before the 1st change but the PF52 is what the parts store listed, and he used 5w30 on the first change, and 10w40 this time. his manual states to use PF1218, but has a note that for a 4wd, which it is, to use a PF52. so we're gonna dig a little deeper into this filter ordeal, since it's obviously the easiest and cheapest solution. but if that doesn't pan out, we'll be looking at other things. thanks guys.

i've had my DG skids for about 4 1/2 years now, and can't complain. the chassis skid is in great shape, and the swinger skid, which takes the most beating on the trails has held up pretty well too. 1000% better than the pos stocker, that's for sure!

you can pound on the center of those things all day long and they aren't going anywhere i don't recall the exact size, but i used a large socket that closely matched the outer ring of the damper and pounded the hell out of it. unless you can get on that outer ring, your gonna be in for a hell of a day. just make sure that it will clear the engine casing. oh yeah, and the rear one, i cut it in the middle as close to the casing as possible on each side and pounded them out seperately, rather than trying to push it out all at once.

if everything else checks out ok and is adjusted properly, check the clutch push lever assembly. sometimes the seal will go bad and let water, dirt and junk into the lever bearing and of course it will bind up and wear out. when this happened to mine, it would bind up sometimes and be really hard to pull, sometimes it would be almost no tension, sometimes it would grab hard, sometimes slip bad, or whatever. i replaced the seal, bearing, arm, spring, etc. pretty much the whole assembly and a new cable and shee's as smooth as could be again.

my dad's suburban ('98 i think) sounds pretty rough when it is first started up, and for about the first 10 minutes or so of driving, then it quiets down and sounds normal. it almost sounds like the rockers/rods are gonna come through the valve covers on both sides of the motor, not just one tapping. oil pressure is pretty high at first, then usually levels off to normal later also. all the normal tune up things haven't helped a bit. it almost sounds like the oil pump isn't working too hot till things get warmed up or something. any other ideas or experience?

i do carry my 9mm or .357 with me pretty often, but usually not when riding. unless we are going for a night ride. i hate the thought of breaking down in the middle of nowhere and being stuck for the night being defenseless. even other times that i do carry, i hope that i would never have to pull it, but i'd rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it.!

bird eyes, rocky mountain seems to be one of the best places to deal with for general aftermarket stuff, that's where i got my pro-flow set up. if you buy it new, it comes with the filters. unless you find a good deal on ebay for the box, or pro-flow, or both, i'd ask around the hq for a box. i'm sure there are lots of guys who have ditched their's from their shee too. a new box from the stealer ship will probably run you around $60. don't bother with the lid though, you don't need it with the pro-flow unless you get into water over the level of the air box. and don't worry, like hilarious said, we were all noobs once

FINALLY-SUCCESS!! it turns out it was still the ground quality where the light mounts. i redrilled and reamed the mounting holes in the bracket, and took the light bolts to the wire wheel hooked it back up and whoohoo, i'm back in business. must not have got it clean enough the first time around. i was about 5 minutes from just running new wires, lol.

ok, i've moved the ground to directly on the tongue, double checked all the wires for cracks, bends, open/bare wire etc, tried a different light fixture, tried my dad's trailer again(which works fine), replaced the connectors/junctions leading to that light assembly, and cleaned up where the light fixture mounts... i don't understand why everything works fine with the vehicle lights off, and is all funked up with the vehicle lights on. yet the vehicle has no effect when hooked to another trailer.

just wondering if there is anybody from here planning on going to quad fest this year. i guess it's only the second annual event, but seems to be pretty cool. i couldn't make it last year, i had to work. but definitely gonna check it out this year. i live only about 45 minutes from this year's site. check out the link for the event. www.thequadfest.com

mine was $17 for the pressure plate and $32 for the inner hub from the local yammy shop.

i went with the hinson basket, but couldn't quite swing the whole set up. so i replaced the hub and pressure plate with new stock ones for much cheaper. mine were full of stress cracks. definitely a good idea to replace them all together, even if it is just with new stockers.

how hard is the clutch pulling? mine was getting really stiff and was starting to slip. turns out the bearing and push lever going into the crankcase were shot and binding up. new seal and bearing, push lever assembly, and motion pro cable has it working pretty slick now.

i run mine in all kinds of mud and muck and low water without any problems with the box on, lid off. gotta have the pro-flow or similar set up though. may still need to re-jet also. just clean the filter frequently and you'll be fine. i also leave the drain plug on the bottom of the box off to let any water that does get in there drain right back out, and hopefully take some dirt with it.

this is like pissing with Christmas lights... yeah, they are the peterson square jobbies. this one is probably only about 6 months old. i've already replaced the wiring from the junction box on the tongue and the plug just today. my dog chewed my old one off and left nothing but frayed bare wires hanging. also chewed up the plastic handle on the jack. anyway, the ground on the tongue is under the screw clamping the wire at the junction box. maybe i'll drill and buff a hole to try just mounting to the tongue itself. i didn't think about where it mounts to the trailer though, i'll have to try that. thanks guys.

you got hosed!

i've had a problem with my trailer lights for some time now and i figured lots of guys haul their quads and may know something about this. basically, the brake lights work fine when the vehicle lights are off. all the lights work fine when the vehicle lights are turned on. BUT... with the vehicle lights on, when you hit the brakes then the left light goes out instead of getting brighter, but the right side brake light lights up. also, with the 4 ways on, the left and right lights alternate rather than blinking together. it's not in my vehicle wiring cuz i hooked up to my dad's new trailer and everything works fine. this should be pretty simple. a brown wire(marker) and a yellow wire(left turn) should go the the left side, brown and green to the right. the brown from the left also branches to the marker lights on the ctr rear of the trailer. and that's how it's all hooked. so why the hell won't it work!! all i've ever done is replace the entire left light assembly with a new one, and wired it up the same as i unhooked it. all the bulbs are fine, i've tried interchanging them and using new ones and still have the same problem. any ideas??

that would be my first guess also.

yeah that sounds right, 2 disks per slot. you'll see what we mean when you take the stock one apart. i used a small grinder and carefully took off the heads of the stock rivets, then punched them out. it's really not that hard of a job. i did mine without problems, and it was the first time i had a clutch apart in about 15 years, especially to that level. a clymer's manual will walk you through it fine, and of course the HQ is here 24/7.

anytime something breaks or needs replaced, i see it as an excuse for an upgrade from stock, so there's not much of a need to go to the stealership for parts. especially considering that sometimes, a better performing aftermarket part is cheaper than the stock pos anyway. i wouldn't doubt that you could build a shee from the ground up with aftermarket parts. now that would be a project bike! take the best of the best of the aftermarket and start from scratch. the most hp and bling that money could buy! i challenge somebody from the HQ to take it on! who's up for the task?? lol.

yeah, i've had an ankle broken, sprained twice, and several twists that i didn't even go to the dr for. too much time in casts and braces!! that's a big reason why i wanted a pair of actual riding boots, not just my old work boots. i'm with ya on the booties in the other ones also, i think they were in the t8's that the sales guy tried to push on me. i definitely didn't want to go into that price range, and didn't like them anyway.